Fork seal quality

voodoodoo

Registered
Hi, has anybody had bad experience with SKF seals.
Had them changed last year, the old ones lasted 30'km.
The new SKF seals had a "sweat" from day one but after a week in the Italian sun&30c/80f they went all good&dry. Then when i returned to the Norwegian cold (5c/40f) they started to "sweat" again. I know the skf's supposed to have less stiction but they should not leak should they.

Stelvio.jpg


Anyhow i'm reverting to OEM seals this winter, heading for the Nürburgring in May. Its going to be my 25'th trip. The laps are gettin slower but the bragging in the bar just gets better every year.
 
Hi, has anybody had bad experience with SKF seals.
Had them changed last year, the old ones lasted 30'km.
The new SKF seals had a "sweat" from day one but after a week in the Italian sun&30c/80f they went all good&dry. Then when i returned to the Norwegian cold (5c/40f) they started to "sweat" again. I know the skf's supposed to have less stiction but they should not leak should they.

View attachment 1676698

Anyhow i'm reverting to OEM seals this winter, heading for the Nürburgring in May. Its going to be my 25'th trip. The laps are gettin slower but the bragging in the bar just gets better every year.
I have no experience with aftermarket fork seals as I only use OEM
 
hi norway

the skf seals usually are good quality . never heard bad about em.

whenever i have to replace fork seals ( at what bike ever),
i personally
use the "All Balls" - always with full success / i never failed with em.

something else on the subject of tools:
they should ALL be metric and very good torque wrenches should be available - and used -
in at least 2 sizes (4-20Nm + 30-100Nm).

and you should never work/repair the busa without a manual.
 
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hi norway

the skf seals usually are good quality . never heard bad about em.

whenever i have to replace fork seals ( at what bike ever),
i personally
use the "All Balls" - always with full success / i never failed with em.

something else on the subject of tools:
they should ALL be metric and very good torque wrenches should be available - and used -
in at least 2 sizes (4-20Nm + 30-100Nm).

and you should never work/repair the busa without a manual.

I did not mount the SKF's myself. Had the forks overhauled and resprung with Wilbers at a dealer.
Told him to check the internal bushings for wear. Got them back in March last year mounted them an let them sit on the bike until May.
Had a few runs in the spring and noticed a slight sweat in the right forkleg. For work reasons the bike stood stil until we went for a week in Trento/Italy, Had the bikes transported to Munich by truck and drove over Timmelsjoch.
Planned to have them fixed if the leak got worse. But when i arrived they were all good&dry.
Then on the way back we had close to zero over Timmelsjoch and lots of rain and they started to leak again. Back home the problem was still consistent. its not running down the forkleg but it collect a lot of dust and grime on the right leg.

I also ordered the internal bushings from k-tech, only problem is how to replace them.. cannot find any info on the subject.

I have the manual and the tools so no probs with that.
 
I've fitted SKF premium dual compound fork seals to Hayabusas and a CBR1000RR and a few smaller bikes and never had a problem.
They cost a fortune here in NZ . . . NZD$148 a pair, but the owners of the bikes did not complain, they understood they are getting the best.
One of the Busa owners I met up with on a ride had previously taken his bike to a smaller privately owned ( not a corporate dealership) workshop with a good reputation and they replaced the fork seals with All Balls and they leaked within 3 weeks.
He took it back and they fitted new Japanese aftermarket seals and they also leaked after a week.
I personally believe it was most likely the way (or method used) they installed the seals, probably damaged them or installed them dry, being the reason they leaked.
He was so frustrated and was telling me about it all, so I suggested SKF seals, and assured him they are top quality and they will NOT leak ( my past experience coming thru).
So, I did the job on his forks with SKF seals . . . that was 3 years ago and they're still good&dry!
He was happy and he recommended my services to all his bike buddies, I actually got a bit of work from his friends.
Result!
. . . . just my .02 cents.
 
(...)
I also ordered the internal bushings from k-tech, only problem is how to replace them.. cannot find any info on the subject.

I have the manual and the tools so no probs with that.
question

u mean these teflon coated "rings" inside the upper, outside pipe?

thatfor nowhere a manual exist and the tool for replace is a super special one
and, just like the sliding rings, not available in any Suzuki shop .
- as far as i know .

have a look - here - at my homepage where i show , scroll down to the end of page , all the values to rebuild the tools .
attention - all values in milli meter [mm]

and how did u inspect these bushings ? color endoscope? and was a copper color visible anywhere ?
if not, means the dark grey color of the tefloncoating is100% intact, u don´t have to replace the bushings .

give back the bushings to k-tech (if poss.) , because it was a senceless purchase .
 
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question

u mean these teflon coated "rings" inside the upper, outside pipe?

thatfor nowhere a manual exist and the tool for replace is a super special one
and, just like the sliding rings, not available in any Suzuki shop .
- as far as i know .

have a look - here - at my homepage where i show , scroll down to the end of page , all the values to rebuild the tools .
attention - all values in milli meter [mm]

and how did u inspect these bushings ? color endoscope? and was a copper color visible anywhere ?
if not, means the dark grey color of the tefloncoating is100% intact, u don´t have to replace the bushings .

give back the bushings to k-tech (if poss.) , because it was a senceless purchase .
Yes that is the bushings, Bought them on ebay and did not pay more than approx 50eur so if they are not needed they will sit fine in the spare parts shelf. I have not inspected the bushings yet but since the new oil seals started to leak almost from day one i suspect there is something more than just the seals. The tubes looks just fine though, no discoloration/wear. I'm using Motul 5w oil and 110mm airgap with the Wilbers springs.
 
(...)
I personally believe it was most likely the way (or method used) they installed the seals, probably damaged them or installed them dry, being the reason they leaked.
(...)
yeah man

that issue i also had in the past with some forks "made" by others

although the fork`s shaft seals from AllBalls were also supposedly installed, which I personally couldn't check because I couldn't find any information about the manufacturer.
so i , just like you , guess that while the installing something, how ever, :confused: went wrong .

one mistake that happened very rarely but every now and then could be that the mechanic inserted a seal ring the wrong way round.

happened also to me too a long time ago - due to carelessness/distraction for a second or two .

result : after about 500 km the fork leaked again.
 
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So i'm doing fork seals this weekend. when i dismount them they look like this.

PXL_20240217_153600576.jpg


Everything looks ok but what's with the plastic shim between the metal shim and the oilseal? is it supposed to be there?

When i measure the skf seal it measures 9mm. plus the plastic shim 2mm thats 11mm. and the skf has the outer spring loaded lip in adition wich makes it 11mm plus the 2mm plastic shim wich makes it 13mm wide in total.
The stock seal is 10mm flat.
 
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I used those same seals when I just rebuilt the forks on my 2017. I did not use the black shim only the silver one that was underneath the OEM seals.
 
Did the job, all looking good but i somehow forgot to check for freeplay (i even ordered the bushings) and there is a slight play in the right leg.

I haven't got the tools to change them anyway so i will bring them to a specialist for repair.

So the conclution is that the skf's were probably all good and the worn bushings made them fail.
 
@voodoodoo

download
1. the gen1 manual - that technically fits ALL gen1s ´99-´07
2. the gen1 microfiches from same link

then u´ll find out that there is only 1 steelmade washer but no ther plastic washer.
with the 2nd (plastic) washer somebody made a damn b ull poop with ur fork.

the spring can´t fit / jump into the gap at the upper pipe to hold the seal in its position . :banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
@voodoodoo

download
1. the gen1 manual - that technically fits ALL gen1s ´99-´07
2. the gen1 microfiches from same link

then u´ll find out that there is only 1 steelmade washer but no ther plastic washer.
with the 2nd (plastic) washer somebody made a damn b ull poop with ur fork.

the spring can´t fit / jump into the gap at the upper pipe to hold the seal in its position . :banghead::banghead::banghead:

I have the manual (mine is a 2013 gen2 btw)

But i found this picture of the skf/busa kit and the plastic shim is included
busa skf.jpg


Anyhow, i'm back on OEM setup but the seal will probably start leaking after a short period due to play in the bushings om the right fork leg.
 
I have the manual (mine is a 2013 gen2 btw)

But i found this picture of the skf/busa kit and the plastic shim is included
View attachment 1678837

Anyhow, i'm back on OEM setup but the seal will probably start leaking after a short period due to play in the bushings om the right fork leg.

what ever they deliver must not be for YOUR model of bike.

e.g.
if u order a set a of front rim bearings (usually 2 needed) and they send 3 - will u (try to) mount the 3rd bearing too ?

read the f uckin manual and watch the microfiches - THEN u´ll see what u dir wrong.

and wich bushings do u mean ? them never seal the fork - they only "lead" them i would say .
 
what ever they deliver must not be for YOUR model of bike.

e.g.
if u order a set a of front rim bearings (usually 2 needed) and they send 3 - will u (try to) mount the 3rd bearing too ?

read the f uckin manual and watch the microfiches - THEN u´ll see what u dir wrong.

and wich bushings do u mean ? them never seal the fork - they only "lead" them i would say .

You are preaching to the choir here Mr. Berlin :D

The SKF seals where mounted by a certified Wilbers dealer here in Norway last winter. I normally do this kinda work myself but last year i was kinda busy with working away from home so i did not find the time. Obviously the dealer did a shitty job as i specified to check the forks for play.. and the "extra" plastic bushing under the seals did not contribute positively to my impression.

I prefer stock parts when i can obtain them.
When i refer to Bushings i mean the ones placed in the fork tubes. one in the bottom and one half way or so inside tube.
Suzuki does not sell them and says the whole fork leg must be replaced. However K-tech sells them separately so i ordered a set for both legs just to have them ready in case(you never now when they stop making the parts). The set cost me about 50 euros in total so no big deal.
I have looked in to the procedure to replace them and have decided to send the tubes to a specialist instead of trying to do it myself(the bushings looks kinda brittle with its teflon coating). I have an exellent suspension tech close to were i work in Oslo. Its an easy job once you have the tools.
 
The SKF seals where mounted by a certified Wilbers dealer here in Norway last winter.(...)
if u found two "washers" per side that dealer is an idiot (without the fitting manual) .

UNDER each seal only ONE washer is mounted / needed and above the seal only the spring is needed.

AND

download
1. the fu..ing gen1 manual - that technically fits ALL gen1s ´99-´07
plus
2. the gen1 microfiches from same link

and read !!!!
 
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