Not sure how you would do a "proper dyno/tune" without flashing, unless you bought a PC or Bazzaz.
To the OP, if you want a dyno tune and your local guy uses ECU flash it seems that would be the way to go. I'm a bit skeptical of some claims about improvements, especially when they are dyno improvements.
There are a very few select tuners in the country that dyno/tune with using the ECU flash method. Most tuners will use the ecu flash to make adjustments like eliminate top speed restriction, hard cut fuel, Raise rev limit, pull timing etc.
Then they use a piggy back fuel control like a PCV or Bazzaz...... A Lot of the shops/ tuners said this was an easier method to properly dial in the bike. I haven't done it myself but from what I've heard they said it's takes longer to tune using the flash method vs a fuel controller. Take a look @ most shops that do turbo, Nos, or Big motor builds and you'll see most of them tune using a Power Commander. And for serious HP builds they progress to a stand alone unit like a Motec and such. Not saying All but most shops including sponsors on this very site....
There have been no 'updates'. If you use the 'mode' switch it won't work anymore, the only issue. It runs like you won't believe, it was like a whole new motorcycle after it was done. I took it to MPS Racing in Casselberry, Fl (Orlando area).
Theresa few things I'd like to add.
1. A bone stock bike usually picks up around 10hp with a tune. For some reason they run extremely rich from the factory.
2. Reflashing the ecu is the only way to go when tuning a Busa. For the cost, vs what it can do vs a piggy back style tuner, a Reflash will crush it every time.
3. A gen 2 ecu can do just about everything a $3000 aftermarket ecu can.
4. Do some resesrch on the woodlich box before you buy to see what others experiences were...
5. Boosted Cycle Performance uses the boost by smith set up for all of our clients bikes.
1. Are you tuning with ram air compensation turned off? My tune (with aftermarket exahaust) adds fuel at full throttle.
On turbo bikes yes, anything else, no. Randomly adding fuel as you mentioned at full theottle at slower speeds is doing nothing but killing power.
2. Are you tuning IAP and TPS maps? The piggyback essentially combines these for easy tuning. The piggyback systems are quicker to make adjustments in.
ALWAYS. Yes quicker and simpler, however in part theottle you can't get as good of a tune in that section. Wide open since piggyback units are tps vs. RPM (like the ecu) you can get real close.
3. For the typical rider this is true, but for the all out drag racer not so much. The Gen2 ECU is good enough for my level of racing and in my opinion flashing is essential even with a piggyback system.
That's why I said ALMOST everything. However I do know several guys in Prostreet class that are running a gem 2 ecu.
4. I am thinking of upgrading to the Woolich box but don't know how it handles IAP datalogging and mapping. Considering I would want to switch to E40 or E85 this seems important. It is easy with a piggyback.
I can't comment on this.
You can go with the Woolich Log box pro, and use your Oem O2 sensor. You then can log and flash for street use, if you want more, get wide band O2 sensor.
2011 Suzuki GSX1300R (Hayabusa) ECU Flashing
I want to install a wide band 02 sensor on my Gen II,, what brand/part number is the most common used for this and were do I tap into my ecu harness to utilize the "wide band'edness" of it.. ? I already have the flasher and I ride with my lap top to get readings.. I just want more accurate readings to get better auto tune info..