Difference in weights for synthetic oils
- Thread starter Cuffee
- Start date
MY Senior drill instructor told me: " The only stupid question is the one you dont ask! " With that, Cuffee, oil is about viscocity or its ability to resist breakdown, with the newer engines today, the tolerances are closer than ever,so if you'll notice, all manufactures are recommending oils alot thinner than lets say 10 years ago.The weight does come into play with different climates,the colder the climate, the thinner the oil you'll want to run,OR before you take off on your bike or car in a cooler climate, a 5-10 minute warm up will get the oil warmed up and flowing more freely through your engine.Its been proven that 90% of engine wear occurs at start up.As far as shifting is concerned, you dont want friction modifiers in your oil,because of the clutch on the busa,however, I'm running Mobile 1 full synthetic which has friction modifiers I believe, but have experienced no problems what so ever,even with the new super sticky tire I have, no clutch slippage or missed gears. Hope this helps you out Man. NJ.
So is one weight better than the other?10/40
When the oil is cold it has the characteristics of a 10 weight....when it warms up it's like a 40 weight
The term is viscosity .
Exactly what do you want to know ?
Exactly what do you want to know ?
Thanks!
Not sure if this relates to weight or not, but I was told to use higher weight oil in hotter weather such as a 20/50, but since the change for the summer I noticed the engin is running hotter too.
Thanks!
Viscosity is thinner, hence flows faster and better for cooling. But most times 20w-50 will shift better and hold up longer (depending on base stock and adds). What I have seen is the 10w-30 shear down to 20 weight very soon since bikes eat up the VI’s.
My 20w-50 in my gsxr1100 works just fine base on the last oil test.
My 20w-50 in my gsxr1100 works just fine base on the last oil test.
on what? I have been testing oils since about 1996. Been asked many questions. There is no dumb one.
Basically the motor eats up the VI (viscosity index). It is kind of a balancing game. You want loads of Ca (calcium-Detergents, dispersants, acid neutralizer.) for the oil and you want Zinc (Antioxidant, corrosion inhibitor, anti-wear additive, detergent,) and Phos (Antirust agent, spark plug & combustion chamber deposit reducer.) This is ZDDP. Now a high TBN helps but that is not integral to a good oil or an oil lasting a long time. Also these help prevent oxd from forming.
Also oils are tested with HTHS High Temperature & High Shear. The higher the number the less the number will shear or thin out. I would stick to oils above 3.5 to 4.0 cP. The good oils are 4.0 to 5.0.
Moly in the oil is a catch 22. It can help but can kill the oil in the long run.
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Has anybody had any problems with the clutch after going synthetic? Stealership keeps telling me I will.
I have 16,000 on my busa now all but the orginal on synthetic not one problem yet.
If you stay with oils that are certified to SG , Jaso MA then you are fine.
The other oils (non cert) have to much friction modifiers, hence more slipping from clutch.
I would also try to avoid "Energy Conserving" oils.
So make sure they Jaso MA rated oils and if they are a synthetic make sure you are getting a REAL syntheitc oil; not a group 3 hydrocrack dino oil and market as a synthetic. Get a group 4 or 5.
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