Cornering help

Im searching for the video but it helped me out alot with slow tight turns cant find it so i will try to explain what was in it ....when taking say a left turn and you can be at walk speed you slide your butt to the right so that only about half of your butt is on the seat
look where your going ive even tilted the bike as you would in a fast curve basicly like you would do on a bicycle only not as far if turning right then do opposite il keep looking for the vid this keeps the center of gravity on the bike so much better for more control
but more practice and each time you will feel like a pro just remember take your time it doesnt come overnight:thumbsup:

sorry for the runon sentences i didnt like this subject in school much lol
 
I applied some of the tricks you all posted here and i gotta say thanks alot. These have helped me very much. Thanks again.
 
Here it is.. this is a good watch hope you find it helpful i use this technique all the time.

- Motorcycle Riding Basics : Motorcycle Counter Sitting[/url]
 
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That bike will handle a slow speed turn easily! Just practice turning the bike some before you stop at the intersection. It makes the turn super easy then. Think of it like cheating. It works very well. Your being too careful, I did the same thing when I got the King. I went into the other lane on turns by not looking where I wanted to go and not letting the bike lean over and make the turn. If you feel like you might have a problem, give it some gas and it will try to stand the bike up, even with cold tires. But it will also straighten out your turn. I practiced in a subdivision with turn after turn after turn for hours. About 1 hour a day for 10 days. now I turn like a pro, in Florida. The toughest turn is into your drive way, gas station and restaurants. Everything else in Florida is a straight high speed run.:laugh:
 
I also have the bike on Jan 18 like you after 2006 cbr 600f. People warned me of its weight and bigger size to control especially in city traffic. I am 170cm(5 + 2/3 feet) 73 kg. My first impression was a doubt because of the "big" apperiance when I got the key to fire up the engine and as a second deep sound of the twins on idle :)

Then ride on the bike, measured the weight of the bike betwen my legs even the two foots on the ground, yes it was heavier then the cbr (45 kg more).

Then clutch to the first gear and took off slightly to the road(no traffic) . First thing that I did -after 50mt- was to standing on the pegs like riding a bike to understand the steering ability with little movements left to righ and then right to left again and again.

Then I sit on the saddle and made "U" turns in realy slow speed first foots on the ground then on the paddle. Sometimes a time using the clutch as if in neutral then in first gear with a little more speed then before.

When I felt confortable of the controlling the bike I go to the citty traffic for filtering as in cbr. And he did really well.

But he felt me panic once at the night we first ride with my frend togetger was about slow speed cornering; the back wheel slided out of control on the lean left in first gear while turning a traffic circle. I felt unsafe about the bike and thougt as "how that can be on a such famous bike, did give a wrong dicision" etc. Then I simulate the situation in mind the find out the problem;
Wheel could be cold
Road surface could be a bit wet (unseen), or aim of the road was in opposite side.
I was in first gear in low speed -near stall- enough to lock the back wheel for while when oening and closing the throttle's dead area with the combined situations above,
And finaly my wheel is old enough which might be change as soon as possible.

If do not call me as "snappish" here are my advices as first runner of busa;
Control the wheel pressure and wear (42 Psi front 42 psi back)
Try to swing right and left until a confortable control with the bike in a parking lot first(this is not a shame)
If you feel confortable try to filter when safely possible to feel "beeing the one" with the bike.
Aware from the cold tires when cornering then much more your previous bike :)
Forget about the doubt if you will drop it or not. İf it will be dropped it will drop try to be safe thats the only important think, it is a bike only you can buy new soon or later:)
And at the and If you do not like bike control or think that it is not proper for your skill please sell it, look for a proper bike cause busa is not the only bike in the world for riding pleasure. To ride in safe, feeling "safe" is first please be rebember. And trust your senses.

I wanted to share my first impressions&experiments only, so sorry if I wrote more longer then you all expected.
 
But he felt me panic once at the night we first ride with my frend togetger was about slow speed cornering; the back wheel slided out of control on the lean left in first gear while turning a traffic circle.

If do not call me as "snappish" here are my advices as first runner of busa;
Control the wheel pressure and wear (42 Psi front 42 psi back)

Recommend you do some reading in the past threads (search "TIRE PRESSURE"), 42/42, depending on the weight you are carrying, is Waayyyy TOO HIGH and is a partial cause of why you lost the rear. Wet/cold/torque also are factors...

You will be much happier if you are normal weight to take that down to about 36/36.
 
Recommend you do some reading in the past threads (search "TIRE PRESSURE"), 42/42, depending on the weight you are carrying, is Waayyyy TOO HIGH and is a partial cause of why you lost the rear. Wet/cold/torque also are factors...

You will be much happier if you are normal weight to take that down to about 36/36.

Definately! I was just gonna say that, but Skydiver's gotcha covered.
 
Go take that MSF course. Even for an experienced rider, it will provide insight. No 2up's until you have had at least 1 season under your belt.

Please be careful!
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Lastly, go to the local library and rent (or go purchase online) "Twist of the Wrist II" by Keith Code (there's also a video out by same title); worth every penny and will undoubtedly make you a better, safer rider....
 
Recommend you do some reading in the past threads (search "TIRE PRESSURE"), 42/42, depending on the weight you are carrying, is Waayyyy TOO HIGH and is a partial cause of why you lost the rear. Wet/cold/torque also are factors...

You will be much happier if you are normal weight to take that down to about 36/36.

I did not experienced the 36/36 psi setting but in the original Suzuki manual the tire pressure is indicated as 42/42 when cold with one or two up. Have you ever read it? If yes then Suzuki is wrong and there is some reason to doubt about the technical back ground also reliabilty of the brand. I am confused...
 
42/42 would give you a smaller contact patch compared to a lower pressure, just not to low because that will also cause alot of lost traction. 36 is a pretty good pressure atleast for me and i weigh 200lbs.
 
And not saying Suzukis wrong cause they have definately done there research hence the reason the busa is such a great bike but its kinda all down to personal preferance. To each his own. :thumbsup:
 
I did not experienced the 36/36 psi setting but in the original Suzuki manual the tire pressure is indicated as 42/42 when cold with one or two up. Have you ever read it? If yes then Suzuki is wrong and there is some reason to doubt about the technical back ground also reliabilty of the brand. I am confused...

There is quite an extensive history (using the .org search function) on this subject and I again recommend you take advantage of the search function. Remember that Suzuki is legally obligated to recommend a tire pressure that will handle the MAXIMUM weight the bike can handle (2 full-sized riders). Unless you weigh over 500 lbs., you don't need that kind of pressure, and by keeping it that high, you are only using a small portion of your contact patch. Riding on 42/42 cold, especially in cold/wet weather, is asking for a lowside. Your pressure is going to go up as the tires warm up while riding and add another 3-6 lbs ON TOP of 42/42 and that's waaay too high.

To really freak you out, many of us are tracking our Busa's starting out with cold pressure at 30/30 to get them warm and have the best contact.

P.S. Yes i've read it, and I also have the full service manual in .pdf (if you want it, PM me and I'll give you a link) so when you want to wrench on it you'll have the correct info. Just trying to keep you from trashing that new bike bro.
 
mihaink, I can see you are a bit confused on why you would vary from the recommended tire pressure listed in your Suzuki manual. I'll do my best to explain how tire pressure works and why it's sometimes to your advantage to vary from the manual.

Tires are designed with a load limit or maximum load at maximum psi. Your tires are probably load rated at around 800 pounds at max pressure which is 42 psi cold. Your tires also has a specific temperature at which they perform best. If you haul your fat girlfriend who weighs in at a heafty 350 pounds you certainly want the recommended 42 psi in order to keep the tire from deforming under load and over flexing the carcass. If you ran 30 pounds under this load your tire would soon overheat and most likely fail.

However, 30 psi under some conditions can enhance your tire to perform better by creating the proper heat and enlarging the contact patch which in turn will create more grip to the pavement. Good, right! Actually, most of us track junkies run 30 psi cold on a regular basis when we go to a track event. We realize how important it is to create heat as well as enlarge the contact patch.

You will not hurt your tires or have any problems with 42 psi. With that said, you will give your tires quicker warm up and more grip by lowering the pressure. Most of us run between 34-36 psi cold in both front and rear which is great for the single rider or an average size passenger. If you have a large passenger, I'd suggest you increase your rear tire pressure up to not to exceed 42 psi. I would not raise the front tire pressure since the majority of the passenger load is directly over the rear tire.

Hope this helps you to understand the relationship between tires and pressure. If your desire is to follow the manual with 42 psi, great! But,,,,,,,,,,,, if you want to improve your bike's performace by all means feel free to lower the psi a few pounds. :beerchug:
 
Thanks to all with kind feelings to help and prevent an unwanted sitiuation finishined as an accident.

By the way
I know "a bit" about the principles between pressure vs volume also friction force etc (I'm an engineer).

Tire pressure indicating must be the most important subject because this is the only and the one touching points to us maybe to the life. This is also be detailed by the manufacturer because it is a technical issue for each owner must know. Think if I drop the bike just because the tire pressures are setted as you warned "TOO HİGH" 42/42 according to the manual. Who will be the responsible, me? I do not think so, just turning in normal lean angel, without any agressive style, no racing etc with factory involved set of tire pressure and loose control because of TOO HIGH pressure...
Suzuki warns me more than minor details about riding safely but will set the tire pressure to the top, near to the danger limits of friction loose. Sorry this is not realy logical nor acceptance for "sorry but you have to experience the tire pressure values your self, we just mentioned 200 kg(overdo) man riding (+ bike loaded 250 kg = 450 kg) for one up".
I am not talking about for a track use to gain mili-seconds by the tire pressure settings just giving an advice to one needed help as a reminder referred to manufacturer but I see I was "wrong" because of trusting.

But I ll experince your pressure values and ask advice for the track and anythingelse about busa :beerchug:
 
When you try it, make sure you ride for awhile, not just up the road and back.
Give your tires time to warm up, so you can can fully see what an improvement it makes.
Suzuki's posting 42psi is them recomending the max load for the size tire they installed at the factory. This actually helps prevent them from being sued. Since Suzuki doesn't make tires they obiviously go by the tire makers max psi. This covers them from tire failure claims to a great extent. Tire pressure for tires are tested on a track, then a model is made for the street. Track guys vary that pressure to safely and better handle various conditions. An everyday street rider that just cruises around wouldn't want the 30/30, but the 36/36 would be a great improvement. You may not ride your bike on the street like you would on a track, but there is a great deal to be learned from it.:beerchug:
 
There is a lot of collective experience on the .org with this issue. In the end, the choice, risks, results and consequences are for the individual rider.

Mihaink, I see you are in Turkey. I believe there is an active Hayabusa club there - if you connect with them, some local introductions might be helpful to you!
 
I run 40 front and 40 rear on my Busa for all street riding with the wife and I, It seems to make the front tire last longer and keep it from dipping out, And I think keeps the back tire from flat spotting in the middle as bad. I run them at those pressure's all the time and have never had a problem. Now if I was on the track It would be alot lower. But that is just me every one is different.
 
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