Clutch Problems Maybe?

t3rm1n8r

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Hello all, I am new to this board and there is a ton of great information on here. I have a 2002 Busa with 13000 miles on it. Only mod is a K&N air filter, everything else is stock. I have had the bike for about months and put about 6000 miles on it. Never had any problems. I was riding in 6th gear and gave it some throttle to do a roll on about at about 4k and it suddenly went to about 9k and then back down to 6k and accellerated hard. It didn't do this before, it usually just rolled on with no problems. It has done this a few times now and seems to do it once the bike warms up. I have read the messages and it seems that this happens quite a bit. I keep seeing problems with the clutch. How much could this cost me? Is there a complete OEM clutch kit? Where is the cheapest place to find OEM parts? I would greatly appreciate any and all help.
 
clutch plates are worn out.....i bought a used set off ebay for 60 bucks, steels and fibers. i think they are around 200 from the dealership. its a pretty simple installation also.
 
Like psycho said, your clutch is done. If you're on a budget, sand down the steels and buy new fibers, remember to keep them in the order they came out, and don't forget to soak your fibers before installing them. You can get a whole set of fibers and steels new for less than 2 bills.
 
I agree, sounds like the clutch but you may not need a complete new one. Do you have (or have access to) 0-1" micrometer and/or a decent set of calipers?
 
Like psycho said, your clutch is done. If you're on a budget, sand down the steels and buy new fibers, remember to keep them in the order they came out, and don't forget to soak your fibers before installing them. You can get a whole set of fibers and steels new for less than 2 bills.





Thanks for the replies guys! Ok, so I may only need some of the fiber plates, is there a place you recommend buying the plates and also what do you soak them in. I know that sounds stupid. I spoke to a mechanic today and he said it may just need some adjusting but since it is already skipping it may need some new fiber plates. I am on a budget and don't know if I want to pay the 450 dollars I was quoted today. If I do it myself, and need to sand down the steels what kind of sand paper would be best. I am mechanically inclined just not very experienced with clutches. Any and all replies are greatly appreciated!
 
$450 holy smokes!  
Do you have a stock clutch hub? (not welded or brocks conversion)
I've been working on a small novel/how to guide about my clutch. Sorry it isn't done. It is a pretty easy fix.
I'm betting you can fix it for under $100. a set of springs ($25)  4 steels ($25) bead blasting plates ($5-10) Digital caliper if you don't have one ($25) feeler gauge ($5)
Worst case $250 and you have the tools and a few spare plates.

Street and Track might have a set in stock. Golden Child might also. vmMan1300 should have a set as well.
 
Thanks Professor, greatly appreciated! I am going to check out those websites right away and take your advice.
 
I doubt any will have them listed, I'd call or send them a PM

For reference check out this Link

You want to build it to a 1.98-2.00 total stack height by swapping in more of the thick steels for the thin ones. Stock has 2 thick 7 thins. The service manual shows up to 4 thicks. Mine took 4 to hit 1.995.  My springs lost .050" free length and 5lbs when tested. That is 30lbs total, like loosing one whole spring. Unless you have been drag racing it or otherwise abusing it, your fibers should be good. Mine had about 100 passes and 8000 miles and the fibers were within new specs.
 
Proffessor, in the diagram is the no. 12 plate the "thick" one?
Should i get 4 of those?

Where can I find a digital caliper and a feeler gauge? Thanks Prof.

Also, what do I soak the plates in?
 
The Prof is giving good advice as usual. I always just scuffed up the steels, (I've even rubbed them on concrete, don't tell anyone!) so the grit is unimportant, but you want to soak the fibers in whatever engine oil you use. I will usually change the oil at the same time, so I just throw them in the pan I drained into. Let them sit at least an hour, longer isn't gonna hurt. Some guys leave them overnight. I abuse the hell out of my clutch, usually go through 2 in a riding season.
It's not difficult, and there is no way I would pay $450 to have it done, in fact I wouldn't trust a shop that quoted me that price to work on my bike at all. You and a buddy can get it done in about an hour and a half, and that's allowing an hour for the fibers to soak........Figure on about $150 in parts if you change everything, you think half an hours shop time worth $300? If so, please bring all your mechanical needs to my house, hell, for that kinda shop rate I'll come pick your stuff up from So Cal!!!!
Seriously, it's not that big of a deal, you'll be fine.
 
(t3rm1n8r @ Nov. 13 2006,15:55) Proffessor, in the diagram is the no. 12 plate the "thick" one?  
Should i get 4 of those?  

Where can I find a digital caliper and a feeler gauge?  Thanks Prof.

Also, what do I soak the plates in?
Yes,

Part number 21451-24F10 is the thick one.
Springs Number 7 21413-24F10

From what you are saying thiese should fix you up. On the downside, if you get it apart and it is worse, you'll be waiting for parts.

Any tool place should have a caliper. Habor freight has a few Link
It doesn't need to be a high end one. Mine was $250 but is about 20 years old. I'm going to get one of these to throw in the race box after seeing these prices.

Any auto store should have a feeler gauge. Just make sure it has a .004" blade. You use it to check the steels for warpage

A couple of small hook type tools help
Link

A magnetic pickup tool comes in handy (I use 2)


Like Mr. Brown said, the oil you use in the bike is fine. I store my spare clutch in oil, triple zip-lock bagged.

When you take it out look at the order. The outside fiber is thicker and clocked a in a different spot. The inside one is thicker (by .033")and has a larger inner diameter.

The two thicker (by.012") steels are located in the center of the pack.
 
Thanks for all the advice fellas. I have been talking to some local mechanics at different shops here in the Bakersfield area and I have been told that it is best if I replace all the fiber plates because they are the most likely to go out first. Is this a good rule of thumb or are they just trying to veer me in the wrong direction? What is your take?

Also what is your take on the EBC Clutch kit and/or the Barnet clutch. I have found the EBC for 77.00 ( http://www.morepoweracing.com/prodtype~PT_ID~10616~strPageHistory~cat.asp ) bucks and I have found the Barnett clutch for 176.00 ( http://www.morepoweracing.com/product....Details )
. Any recommendations or good or bad experiences?

Thanks, any and all replies are greatly appreciated.


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While I have not personally used any, I think you will find more bad things said about the aftermarket clutches than good. Some may have had other problems. The majority says the oem stuff for the busa is the best way to go. Don’t forget new springs.

I’d be interested in looking at your old plates regardless of what you decide to do. I’ll even pay shipping both ways.

Ping Charles @ Street and track and vman1300 for a price. Either will fix you up!



Also do a search on clutch AND barnett and see what you come up with.
 
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