Clutch problem - very light lever and not activating the clutch

[BeeJ]

I have recently purchased a 2000 Hayabusa. It is in very good general condition, although I did need to replace and rebuild the front brake master cylinder and calipers. Front brakes very good now.

The clutch was very light and only engaged at the end of the lever travel, so I rebuilt the master cylinder. This did not cure the problem, I now had no clutch. I then replaced the seal in the slave cylinder, the rest of the components looked OK. No leaks.

When I operated the lever with the cover off, the piston moved out and I was not able to push it back, so pressure looked good. I reassembled and the lever was still light and no move on the clutch. I have bled the system in both diections and have replaced the DOT 4 brake fluid. Still no joy.

Any advice?

 

[Stealth_Busa]

Not Sure I can Help but -

When you reference Slave Cylinder, is the the Clutch Release Cylinder Assembly that pushes the Clutch Push Rod?

And the Piston that you refer to, is the in the Slave Cylinder?

If Yes to both, you still have Air in the Line. The Manual has a Specific Way to Bled the Clutch Line. You have to Pump Up the Clutch Lever, then Release the Bleeder Valve.

If you have done this, well I don't have any more Ideas.

Stealth

 

[Freechance]

My first time with the clutch was the same problem...i bought a mighty vac and still took a while to bleed all the air out of the system..

 

[Steve_uk]

I have recently purchased a 2000 Hayabusa. It is in very good general condition, although I did need to replace and rebuild the front brake master cylinder and calipers. Front brakes very good now.

The clutch was very light and only engaged at the end of the lever travel, so I rebuilt the master cylinder. This did not cure the problem, I now had no clutch. I then replaced the seal in the slave cylinder, the rest of the components looked OK. No leaks.

When I operated the lever with the cover off, the piston moved out and I was not able to push it back, so pressure looked good. I reassembled and the lever was still light and no move on the clutch. I have bled the system in both diections and have replaced the DOT 4 brake fluid. Still no joy.

Any advice?

check the slave cylinder housing hasnt cracked, this was an issue with K1's and K2's this happened to mine, when you pull in the leaver the casing opened a bit and it felt like air in the system, although it could still be air in the system, but might be worth checking as well....

 

[Berlin Germany]

I have recently purchased a 2000 Hayabusa. It is in very good general condition, although I did need to replace and rebuild the front brake master cylinder and calipers. Front brakes very good now.

The clutch was very light and only engaged at the end of the lever travel, so I rebuilt the master cylinder. This did not cure the problem, I now had no clutch. I then replaced the seal in the slave cylinder, the rest of the components looked OK. No leaks.

When I operated the lever with the cover off, the piston moved out and I was not able to push it back, so pressure looked good. I reassembled and the lever was still light and no move on the clutch. I have bled the system in both diections and have replaced the DOT 4 brake fluid. Still no joy.

Any advice?

bleed the clutch again like i described here at my homepage.

and at sec. step
do the job i described here .
don´t wait too long with that or u get as a result the 1st demage-pics - dethifying horroble

 

[sixpack577]

it's been over 13 years...I bet it was fixed.
lol

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

check the slave cylinder housing hasnt cracked, this was an issue with K1's and K2's this happened to mine, when you pull in the leaver the casing opened a bit and it felt like air in the system, although it could still be air in the system, but might be worth checking as well....

I read that "pushrod creep" causes the rod to bind, and when the clutch is finally assembled and the lever pulled, the bound pushrod can do that, shatter the slave cover. What is the root cause of this and how to prevent it?

 

[LC4CARL]

I read that "pushrod creep" causes the rod to bind, and when the clutch is finally assembled and the lever pulled, the bound pushrod can do that, shatter the slave cover. What is the root cause of this and how to prevent it?

To hold it in place, I used to put grease on the fuel pump push rod when assembling a small block Chevy. Probably a different situation though.

 

[Steve_uk]

it's been over 13 years...I bet it was fixed.
lol

Yer i know i am a bit slow ....its my age...lol

 

[Steve_uk]

To hold it in place, I used to put grease on the fuel pump push rod when assembling a small block Chevy. Probably a different situation though.

I bought a clutch slave cylinder retaining bracket kit, I have a broken cover at the moment and fitted that, had no problems since I will try find out who i got it from and post it for you..

 

[Berlin Germany]

I bought a clutch slave cylinder retaining bracket kit, I have a broken cover at the moment and fitted that, had no problems since I will try find out who i got it from and post it for you..

hmmmm - nroken cover?

you´re talking about the front sprocket cover?

ONLY at gen1 it tends to break
if
yeah if u have mounted stronger springs in the clutch.

thatfor the cover isn´t strong enough - mount this special bracket

cross the sleeve and u´ll "have peace" with that issue. ;-)

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

you´re talking about the front sprocket cover?

ONLY at gen1 it tends to break

I have read here that the gen 1 cover is a problem and mine is not a problem. I wondered, if working on the clutch creates a risk of a bound pushrod that causes this damage, is there a procedure to make sure on first use of the clutch the pushrod does not snap into place?

 

[sixpack577]

I have read here that the gen 1 cover is a problem and mine is not a problem. I wondered, if working on the clutch creates a risk of a bound pushrod that causes this damage, is there a procedure to make sure on first use of the clutch the pushrod does not snap into place?

No, just take your time and double check your assembly.
It is actually a very simple system.

 

[Berlin Germany]

I have read here that the gen 1 cover is a problem and mine is not a problem. I wondered, if working on the clutch creates a risk of a bound pushrod that causes this damage, is there a procedure to make sure on first use of the clutch the pushrod does not snap into place?

man?

i wrote the front sprocket cover tends to break ,
what means,
that
it can break but it must not.

only my experiances tell me that with stronger springs in the cluth the danger of a cover break increases more than only a lil bit.

that's why I really recommend everyone to generally install the reinforcement (see picture above),
at the latest if he wants to have stronger springs .

 

[dadofthree]

I had this happen once, found several cover bolts missing others very loose, but you said you removed and reinstalled. So I’m sure it’s not that.

 

[Steve_uk]

hmmmm - nroken cover?

you´re talking about the front sprocket cover?

ONLY at gen1 it tends to break
if
yeah if u have mounted stronger springs in the clutch.

thatfor the cover isn´t strong enough - mount this special bracket

View attachment 1671680
cross the sleeve and u´ll "have peace" with that issue. ;-)

ummmm...yes front sprocket cover, I presume that is where the clutch slave cylinder is located? and yes thats the retainer/bracket/sprocket cover thingymabob that i got including stronger springs ( clutch springs that is ) and some sort of device that fits behind the clutch basket that stops it rattling or something like that..