Busa engine work , Hard to do?

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PocketRocket

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Ok Engine Guru's , I am kinda new to the bike world but not at turning a wrench...I have built hundreds / Hundreds of automatic trans. and hundreds of Mostly chevy small blocks.. Nos & supercharged engines So my question is I am thinking of making my busa a 1363 ( instead of buy'in another bike) I am averaging the cost between another bike already built and or building my own motor.. Now is building the engine really as bad as it seems or people say? How hard can it be to have the upper cylinders bored and some new rod berrings& pistons installed with a proper P&P on the head...? Me thinks it isnt that hard its just different... I sure would like your input... Thanks
 
It's no different than working on any sideways import, DOHC, four cylinder. Just smaller. The beauty is that the cylinder assembly is separate from the base casing and that means it's replaceable. The basic difference is that it has straight-cut driven everything. Get everything in the right slots, and the rest falls into place. If you have a Suzuki GSX1300R shop manual, you have all the specs and procedures particular to the Hayabusa engine.

Standard prep, and assembly guidelines apply. :super:
 
PocketRocket said:
Ok Engine Guru's , I am kinda new to the bike world but not at turning a wrench...I have built hundreds / Hundreds of automatic trans. and hundreds of Mostly chevy small blocks.. Nos & supercharged engines So my question is I am thinking of making my busa a 1363 ( instead of buy'in another bike) I am averaging the cost between another bike already built and or building my own motor.. Now is building the engine really as bad as it seems or people say? How hard can it be to have the upper cylinders bored and some new rod berrings& pistons installed with a proper P&P on the head...? Me thinks it isnt that hard its just different... I sure would like your input... Thanks
Click to expand...

Prep is everything. You should send the block out to have it bored and nikasiled. I use Millennium plating. Check the roundness of the crank throws with a micrometer and the bores of the caps with a dial bore gauge. If they are not round have them line bored. I do this on all of the motors that I build (from stock to stroker motors) along with other things. While you are in there go ahead and modify the oiling system to get better lubricity.
 
Get a manual and take your time. Mark everything and use a digicam if possible. Another good idea is to buy a box of the large ziplock freezer bags with a label area. Mark the bag, put the part in and all the bolts that go with it. It drasticly speeds up reassembly.
 
Cool , also I hear about this Millennium plating , What is that? Also if any of you Busa mechanics are in the southeast , and you are going to tear-down a busa engine anytime soon & you dont mind some Company for a day , I'd like to be there.. And Thanks for the advise...:thumbsup:
 
2 trciks that I have are

Clutch hub holder. Pretty cheap tool for holding the inner clutch hub to remove the clutch.

clutchhubholder.jpg


When reassembling the motor you will install all of the pistons on the connecting rods. The block is then slid down on all of the pistons,this is a pain in the ass because the block will rock back and forth. Get a set of stock cylinder head bolts and cut the heads off. Install them in the block and bend them out slightly. Now slide the cylinder block over the cut off studs. The studs will hold the block up during installation. It makes it alot easier. I have a clutch hub holder and about 40 stock head bolts here if you need any. Let me know if you need pics of the cut off head bolts.
 
I just did the 1363 this summer. I did the motor my self, everything from top to bottom. I sent my block to millenium, they're in Wisconsin. Top quality work, pretty pricey though. If you have the repair manual, patients and are not afraid to ask questions you'll be fine. Good luck. If your interested I did a motor build up a few weeks back that had a few pics in it if your interested. I'll try and find the link.
 
GMbusa said:
Why not silicone?
Click to expand...

Alot of guys use silicone to reassemble the cases. When the cases are put together and torqued down the silicone can be pushed out on the inside of the motor. It will break off and get into the oil pickup screen,oil jets and oil pathways and clog them up. I am not saying this will happen all of the time but I have seen it before on bikes with spun bearings. Use Yamabond,it works great.
 
Last edited:
whoever told you it's hard is an idiot. It's a regualr inline 4 cyl/4-stroke engine with dual overhead cams. Nothing fancy
 
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