at what rpm does the gen2 stop pulling in 6th gear (stock bike)

Dude, your wrong here!! The only variation in RPM would come from clutch or tire slippage. All goes down the line from the crank. Crankshaft to the rear sprocket

An engine doesnt care if its pulling 90lbs or 900 lbs. It may not reach top RPM under extreme heavy loads but it doesnt make 2 flying f'n watermelon seeds as stated with no clutch or tire slippage

I understand that, and I'm having no luck trying to get my point across on that.
The fact remains that you cannot say that at x rpms you are doing x speed...every time, all the time. Go up 3k' in elavation and see if it holds true. Or have a big variance in temp and humidity or a strong headwind.
You can't say that a stock gen2 in Denver in december at 10k rpm is going 180mph, and another gen2 at 10k in Miami in June is doing 180mph too. Guaging speed off of the tach works for a ballpark speed, but it aint gps.:beerchug:
 
Sixpack, you mean throttle position? Engine load? If I can run 6th gear at say 4600 rpm and 75ish mph, then mine should do that with everyone.
Throttle position, fuel rate, engine load etc would change.. not the mechanical connection, it's not an automatic, no clutch slippage/loss through hydraulic coupling.. ???
 
This is like arguing there are 4 wheels on a tricycle. I am done, good luck guys.. SIXPACK find me some info on the internet explaining your therory maybe I am understanding you wrong..

Crankshaft speed (RPM) and rear sprocket (MPH)

The only way this would hold true is with a CVT transmission.
 
Sixpack, you mean throttle position? Engine load? If I can run 6th gear at say 4600 rpm and 75ish mph, then mine should do that with everyone.
Throttle position, fuel rate, engine load etc would change.. not the mechanical connection, it's not an automatic, no clutch slippage/loss through hydraulic coupling.. ???

Yours should, but how about mine? Or the next guys'? They will too, but they may not be exactly the same as yours.
I've screwed up trying to make a point. That as said above; unless the bike and conditions are Exactly the same, you can't say that because the tach read 10k you must have been going 180mph. Not 177, not 183, but 180mph...everywhere, any bike.
If the tach said 10k, 11k, whatever, you were likely in the 180's. An EXACT mph across the board to match rpm. No way.
As I said originally, just go by gps, that's the easiest way to be within a mph or 2 of what you're actually doing(if not dead on).:beerchug:
 
This is like arguing there are 4 wheels on a tricycle. I am done, good luck guys.. SIXPACK find me some info on the internet explaining your therory maybe I am understanding you wrong..

Crankshaft speed (RPM) and rear sprocket (MPH)

The only way this would hold true is with a CVT transmission.

I am explaining wrong Yankee, my brain doesn't want to work right at the moment.
You still can't say that the same rpm=the exact same speed for every identical bike and condition though, that's all I was getting at. I see am/was making no sense otherwise.:beerchug:
 
I am explaining wrong Yankee, my brain doesn't want to work right at the moment.
You still can't say that the same rpm=the exact same speed for every identical bike and condition though, that's all I was getting at. I see am/was making no sense otherwise.:beerchug:

Its all good SIxpack, I respect your posts,your opinions and statements are usually dead on, but this one was a little off almost as someone hacked your account and started posting. I am sure you are trying to say something different but its not coming accross that way.. :beerchug:
 
sixpack577 said:
Yours should, but how about mine? Or the next guys'? They will too, but they may not be exactly the same as yours.
I've screwed up trying to make a point. That as said above; unless the bike and conditions are Exactly the same, you can't say that because the tach read 10k you must have been going 180mph. Not 177, not 183, but 180mph...everywhere, any bike.
If the tach said 10k, 11k, whatever, you were likely in the 180's. An EXACT mph across the board to match rpm. No way.
As I said originally, just go by gps, that's the easiest way to be within a mph or 2 of what you're actually doing(if not dead on).:beerchug:

You coulda just said "my tach reads 4597 yours reads 4612 when we're running side by side" instead of being all dramatic about it.. :laugh:
(seriously, didn't understand your point at first :)
 
Thats whats great about this place, we can have discussions and learn things from each other without getting torn apart, or starting a forum war.......it takes classy folks to behave like that..........and I think if you own a hayabusa and post here you're prolly a class act :beerchug: :thumbsup:
 
You coulda just said "my tach reads 4597 yours reads 4612 when we're running side by side" instead of being all dramatic about it.. :laugh:
(seriously, didn't understand your point at first :)

I know, right.
I'm glad you jumped in, it made something click in my head.
Where you guys now know what I was gettin at...sorta:laugh:
Sorry for the confusion.
 
Its all good SIxpack, I respect your posts,your opinions and statements are usually dead on, but this one was a little off almost as someone hacked your account and started posting. I am sure you are trying to say something different but its not coming accross that way.. :beerchug:

Thanks man, I appreciate it.
I went back and looked at them too, and I wondered how I got so off track.
I don't know what happened, I had too many things here going on at once:laugh::beerchug:
 
Thats whats great about this place, we can have discussions and learn things from each other without getting torn apart, or starting a forum war.......it takes classy folks to behave like that..........and I think if you own a hayabusa and post here you're prolly a class act :beerchug: :thumbsup:

I agree sir, lots of good folks here. It's nice to have a civil discussion, even if you guys can't keep up.:laugh:
I'll be the first to admit when I'm wrong too...sometimes it just needs to be pointed out to me.
But come on, you guys are supposed to know what I mean!:laugh:
 
Almost like taking directions,,, Well first you go ahead and back up and make a left at your first right then drive on the parkway.
Go do a wheelie and clear your head :beerchug:
 
you keep bringing them up but if i remember correctly gearingcommander.com uses speeds based off of runs on a dyno which has no wind elevation changes etc and your only spinning a wheel your not propelling mass forwards

What is your point ? If you go back and read my post, It starts out with in theory ...... that said I've used this web site for years and will continue to use it and provide the link for others to use. It is a great tool for information. I really don't know where the information is derived from. Maybe I'll go back and spend some time and see if I can find that information. I've checked my bikes against the information provided and I think that web site is as accurate or more accurate than some of our bikes :laugh:

I'm not a fan of gearing commander for several reasons.
A derestricted stock gen2 under perfect conditions is also capable of a little more than 192mph.

Yes, a derestricted Gen II in theory would exceed 192 M.P.H. topped out. Don't see what that has to do with the website. :laugh: and then if you raised the rev limit it might even do a little more, but a stock Busa will run out of the power needed at some point.

i agree i mean there are so many variations down to the chain lube your using reducing friction condition of bearings, weight of rider, aerodynamics of riding position, blah blah blah

I disagree, but who really cares. Don't forget a light weight rear wheel :laugh: but regardless of all those factors the website simply shows R.P.M. vs Speed. I weigh around 300 pounds and even tucked I can't hide from the wind. Given enough distance in stock configuration I never failed to reach speed on my Gen I and it was pulling hard the whole way. I dropped two teeth on the rear sprocket of that Gen I and it did not reach the theoretical 207 M.P.H. I believe because the bike did not have the power to do it with me on it. Have not had the Gen II checked against a GPS yet, but she pulls just as hard. The web site simply shows what speed you make at a given R.P.M. in a given gear. Obviously if you have a slipping clutch or rear tire on your 400 RWHP turbo isn't hooking up it will make a difference.

gearingcommander.com
 
The web site also allows you to change up sprocket sizes and do a few other nice things, but it does not take into account wear of tires, or sprockets, nor does it calculate for different tire heights .... say a 55, but i figured the vast majority around here would understand that.
 
dadofthree said:
The web site also allows you to change up sprocket sizes and do a few other nice things, but it does not take into account wear of tires, or sprockets, nor does it calculate for different tire heights .... say a 55, but i figured the vast majority around here would understand that.

Its doesn't do wear but you can change the tire height which I thought was cool. I have used the site a couple times just to see rpm difference with different combos.
 
There are 2 totally separate things being talked about here, that I think people are confusing.

1) max speed that can be achieved, and how hard the engine is working, and throttle position. These things ARE affected by rider weight, incline, wind, ect.
2) Actual speed at a giving RPM with a given gearing (which includes transmission, sprocket, and tire size). If the gearing is the same between 2 bikes and they are spinning the same RPM, the will be going the same speed, no matter what!

Now true, if you are going up hill, have a bigger rider, more wind, ect, it will put more load on the motor, require more HP and more THROTTLE to get the motor up to that RPM (if it can even get there), but once you reach that RPM you will be going the same speed with the same gearing.
 
There are 2 totally separate things being talked about here, that I think people are confusing.

1) max speed that can be achieved, and how hard the engine is working, and throttle position. These things ARE affected by rider weight, incline, wind, ect.
2) Actual speed at a giving RPM with a given gearing (which includes transmission, sprocket, and tire size). If the gearing is the same between 2 bikes and they are spinning the same RPM, the will be going the same speed, no matter what!

Now true, if you are going up hill, have a bigger rider, more wind, ect, it will put more load on the motor, require more HP and more THROTTLE to get the motor up to that RPM (if it can even get there), but once you reach that RPM you will be going the same speed with the same gearing.

I think I already stated that earlier.
 
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