Airbox modifications ?

Ditto, I fab'd a little metal plate to twist-in place of the remove solenoid. I also put a bolt in the end of the hose that whent to the solinoid. I assum this would cause a vacuum leak if left open?

I just reattached all hoses back to the airbox. except for the one that went to the solenoid.

I will be removing the air pump when I do my header if it comes in. Is there any where I can order thos block off plates for those inlet holes ?


thanks.

[This message has been edited by speed (edited 20 July 1999).]
 
Greg, first - did you cut the airbox or only remove the flap. If the airbox is cut it makes more of a difference.

If you did'nt cut it and you're not happy with the mod, just put the flap back in. It will save you more money than having it remapped.

From the second thread I explained that the flap was there for good throttle response down low. Obviously if you were to remove it that good throttle would disappear.
 
Speed, I just folded the vaccuum line and tied it off with a tie strap however a bolt is just as effective.

I made the block off plates myself. It is very simple just find some scrap 1.6mm or larger aluminium sheet and use the existing tube end as a template to drill the holes in the aluminium. Cut them to size and use manifold sealant to ensure they are airtight.

The emission junction box also has a vaccuum line that goes to the no.4 throttle body. This must also be blocked off at the throttle body. Use a carby tube end available at any speed shop for under a dollar. Or I suppose you can order them from Suzuki because they are on the no.2 and 3 throttle bodies. (but they will be on backorder and cost $50.00, LOL)
 
I have terrible luck with any airbox mods.
I paid quite a bit for a local speed shop to do the mods.

Before I did anything I dynoed the bike to make sure everything was normal. 154.6 hp (stock)
Now I have seen plenty of busa's run a 1/8
average 6.32 et 1.55 60' 115 mph
A buddy of mine spent little of nothing
and got 6.12 et 1.54 60' 120 mph
I know I got a good bike just can't figure out what I'm missing. We even switched riders the bike is just stronger. What do I need to check to bring my busa up to par?
 
outcast, what exactly do you think is the problem?

What mods did you pay for?

What times have you run?

I will try to help you but need more info.
 
I had the flapper removed and air filter.
I don't know exactly what was done because I haven't seen a stock one.
remapped the computer 10 10 10.
the bike runs 6.31 et 1.55 60' 115.6 mph
1 down in the front 42 on the back dunlop 207. My buddy has 1.59 60's and runs 6.12 120 mph easy. let me know if there is something I need to check.
 
I dont' know about our busas, but I can tell you guys that with my old R1, you could not get any additional horsepower with air box mods. Guys spent tons of money and time with Attack ram boxes and the like, to go back to stock. Tere is no telling how much dyno time these guys spent trying even to get a k&n to work better than stock. Manufactures spend a lot of time trying to get the best balance. Modifications should be aproached with caution.
 
Earl, I totally agree with you that all modifications should be performed with caution.

Also, you are right in manufacturers make a balance. They cannot sacrifice drivability for max horsepower, hence the flap in the airbox.

I cannot speak for the R1 but a modification to a TLR airbox does produce significant results on a dyno. I have witnessed this in person on my friends TLR.

The Hayabusa airbox is similar in design and I am one of those people that pull everything apart when I get it and change things around. 90% of the time things go worse, LOL.

The modification to the hayabusa's airbox I have pointed out here is very basic and I have not had the chance to check the results on a dyno. Theoretically it should reduce low end power and increase top end slightly. Only the dyno will tell.
 
Outcast, we don't run the 1/8th down here so those times + mph mean very little. However your 60ft time seems very quick.

Why was the airfilter removed? I'd be putting that back.

Did you dyno it after the mods were performed? How does the graph look now?

Did you run it when it was stock?

Is your friends bike stock?

You may have a dip in the midrange due to the remapping. Was it remapped correctly w/gas analyser on a dyno?

Get the stock dyno graph printed on the modified dyno graph and have a look where the differences are.

Get a second opinion.
 
hayabusa:colin,those 1/8th mile times that outcast's friend ran are very impressive! it's even hard for me to believe that,that bike is stock (motor).maybe the guy weigh's 95pds. or maybe he's racing down hill? but whatever he's doing i want some of it.you know my bike is beond that,but that some good times for a stock bike.6.12's in the 120's.
 
WOW ! I must have a lot of improvement to go.
The best I could manage was 6.767@110mph. I know I need to slip the clutch a tad more to get out of the hole better. I get 1.7 1.8 60ft consistantly. And no fat jokes but I weigh in around 200 + or - a few pounds depending on when I ate last :)

What kinda 60ft do you get whenyou turn 6.1 or 6.3's ??
 
Those are some great 60ft times!!!! But you have really changed the gearing with one down in front and 2 up in back. With that low gearing 1/8 dragstrips should be your cup of tea. I'll bet it make it more difficult to live with dring highway drones though. I'll will say this, you have your launch down pat.
 
I removed the "floor" of the airbox (only the section inside the sealing lip) I guess a better way to describe it is if you remove the airbox lid, and pull the filter out and look at the floor of the airbox, there is a small 1/4" lip that mates up with the sides of the filter. I removed all of the plastic inside of the lip, so the filter still seals.
And my bike still runs smooth at all RPMs, but still haven't had a chance to run it against anything else to see how it runs under load. I figure the filter will restrict the airflow at low rpms enough to eliminate any stumble.Everything else is still stock, even the vacuum switch that used to run the flap is still there and still connected to vacuum.

A fast engine has to eat! and the more you feed it, the more it likes it!
 
Yea both of the bikes are stock. No arm foot shifting. After you get the clutches fix they will all fun like that. I went to the track tonight best pass 1.51 60' 4.049 330 ft
6.158 et 116.934 mph pretty ok with that but the bike missing the mph. The only thing left to check is cam timing. The bike only shows 5hp gain from all mods even with yosh full system. I could have left it all at the speed shop the gains were small, I could have left to riding ability if that is all I got.
 
speed: try launching your bike at 4000. rpm. also, stiffen your rear shock dampener all the way to the stiffest setting. run your front dampener's by the front axle; up about 4 to 5 additional click's.also make shure your thumb wheel on your clutch lever is adjusted so your lever is furthest from the hand grip.<(this should also help elemanate false neutral's.)lower your rear tire pressure to 12pds...because of your wieght, (200+) you might have to take your rear shock spring down about 4 threads...you should be able to turn consistant high 1.50's to mid 1.60's even with the stock clutch basket...if the bike try's to wheelie on you after your even sitting all the way up on the tank, then you'll probaly have to strap the front end. that's why your keeping it at 4-grand or lower. good luck!!
 
Thanks for the great advice. I was launchin around 3k so I will lauch a little higher.

I was running full airpressure. I rode it to the track & had to ride it home ;)

I will stiffen up the rear next time I go to the track. I still have to find that happy medium between rid'n & rac'n if you know what I mean.
 
Hayabusa

I remove the door and everything outlined by the inside of the air filter including the little lip inside the filter line and the plastic stick that hits the door. The dyno work was done at Fast by Gast. The bike definitely sounds different which is OK.
 
Air Box Mod, If any of you have but an aftermarket pipe on the bike even with the remapping of the fuel injection you will notice that the bike stumbles at 2500rpm. I did the air box mod and it fixed the 2500 rpm stumble but moved it to around 1800 rpm, I hardly ever see that rpm. With the air box opened up to just around the edge where the lip is for the filter this roughly invreases the are times 2. It also helps with pressure loss. If you just remove the flapper then you will not get any thing but a stumble between 1000-2000 rpm. If you have an after market pipe do the mod. The 10 hp gain is at 150+mph. while it only gains 2-3 hp with no ram air working...again speed is a square function but so is area and its effects. by openning up the area you get more laminar flow and not a high renolds number, this means less drag on the air trying to get to your throttle bodies ==== HP HP HP, i love it. David G.
 
I noticed a throaty'r sound from the airbox area after removing the airbox opening, but I left the lip in tacked and just smoothed it off with sand paper.

I guess the sound gets to bounce around in the airbox more with out that baffle in there.
 
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