does anyone have the details on how to wire a DPDT switch capable of charging the 2nd battery while in parallel(12v charging) and still allow for 24v starting...or does anyone have the instructions that came with a schnitz or tiger racing one, i bought one from a friend and it didnt come with instructions and he doesnt know how it was set-up.... if so i would greatly appreciate it thanks
24v wiring question....
- Thread starter hbusa01
- Start date
I found this in another thread:
Starter Wiring Harness, 24 volt, Suzuki Hayabusa, Charges Both Batteries - Sims Motorsports Schnitz Motorsports Inc
If you scroll down you'll see directions for Gen I and Gen II busas. Hopefully that helps.
Starter Wiring Harness, 24 volt, Suzuki Hayabusa, Charges Both Batteries - Sims Motorsports Schnitz Motorsports Inc
If you scroll down you'll see directions for Gen I and Gen II busas. Hopefully that helps.
Send me your email address. I'll send the installation instructions to you.
coreywiley
Registered
I need to do this. do I need anything else besides a second battery and wire? someone pm me please thanks
Why do you need to do this?
HiYaBruceA
Registered
I have the Schnitz full monty setup, with 1) the secondary battery holder and 2) wiring with charging switch to allow both batteries to charge when the engine is running. 3) I have Brock's Performance case cover (Hayabusa - Case Protector This titanium sleeve was designed to eliminate case breakage due to starter kickback from high compression motors or low battery voltage.)
4) You had better also get a battery tender if the bike sits all winter.
My dealer did the installation, installing the secondary battery in the right side of the passenger seat storage area, which required cutting a small opening in the undertail to make the holder and battery fit. I bought the holder because I take the busa to the track and otherwise throw it around on the streets and I wanted the secondary battery to be totally secure.
The charging switch he located on the left rear side fairing in the hole-that-serves-no-purpose. If you have side bags you may want to ensure that you can still reach the switch, or you will be forced to leave it in the down position for the duration of your ride, which I assume will be lengthy because of the side bags, and will be kind of self defeating.....see below.
The switch operates as follows: the down position is required for starting, but if left there will not charge the secondary battery. The up position charges both batteries but won't allow you to start the engine. (stalling on the road now requires a move to the switch before hitting the ignition). The middle position neither starts the engine nor charges both batteries so I never use it. When I have the battery tender attached to my primary battery I make sure the switch is in the down position so both batteries will charge.
To answer the other question as to why one would do this, I learned the answer the hard way. I had a number of current draining mods on my '04 (shift indicator, instrument cluster dimmer/color changer, PCIII, yellow box, God knows what else I lost count). Then I had Brock's top end kit installed, which included performance cams and pistons and which by itself doesn't require 24v power. I fired her up and off we went. But I stalled it after it had warmed up and there wasn't enough cranking power to do a hot re-start. I had to wait for the thing to cool down, because the Brock kit plus my other mods sent my cranking requirement over the top.
First I tried a new heavy duty primary battery but even that wasn't enough, so I had to go with the two batteries, one of which is now heavy duty. So the bike doesn't just start, it explodes, whether the engine is hot or cold.
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you would need a way to charge the secondary battery.
HiYaBruceA
Registered
Read my post immediately above yours.
I cant speak for them, but as a person with a 1397 big bore bike, when the bike is hot you can have problems starting. This is cured with a 24V setup, you have the additional amps to actually get the starter spinning. You can get away with a 275CCA and I believe there is 330CCA battery out there that requires you t mod the seat, but the 24V system is the most reliable method for consistant warm starts.
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