20k mile 06 LE questions

[mekaz]

Hi everyone! Hope all are well and enjoying the perfect riding weather! I have questions for the masters of this universe but first I feel it necessary to rave about our falcons. I have now had my 06 for 2ish years and I re fall in love with it every time I throw a leg over. Im not joking, I literally say aloud in my helmet GOD I LOVE THIS BIKE SO MUCH w an ear to ear grin every time it does something perfectly. Maybe I'm just getting a lot better w her but I feel she's doing me the favor. Ok, now that thats out the way, a few questions if u would be so kind. So, just crossed 20k and was wondering if there are things the experts would do when the fairings come off for the next oil/filter change. I personally have never had the plugs changed(got her at 7642mi), never had the valves checked, never changed a fuel filter, never changed the air filter(guy I bought off of changed it when I bought it, w old filter given to me as proof). I figure since the tech is gonna be all up in there I may as well ask y'all if u recommend anything that has worked for you. I would love any performance advice on top of what you think I NEED to do so I don't good time anything up. Im not super mechanical and tbh I am afraid to touch her in case I screw something up and find that out at 100mph. I guess I'm thinking its a 14yr old bike, are there things of concern? Also, the only thing non stock is a set of D&D cans(just slip ons). I will say given my limited knowledge, it does smell a lil rich at startup ( I choke the bike on warm up for prob 2mins EVERY time til the thermo reaches at minimum 25% of the temp gauge, like halfway between the lowest temp and the middle line. Also, been using Amsoil synthetic for the entirety of MY ownership, which was recommended by my tech who is an amateur superbike racer(ZX10 guy). Sorry I'm all over the place but she is my pride and joy truly and I want to do her right as well as get the most performance and longevity out of it. Thank you everyone who can help. I have taken past recommendations from here and couldn't be happier w the results so here I am once again. One more thing lol, anybody have any opinions on an upgrade for the headlight? Drop in bulb upgrade would be preferred, but also curious about conversions. I feel like I'm not getting enough light to get noticed as well as not seeing far enough down the road to be totally comfortable. Thanks for all the help in the past and the future. Be safe. Gratefully, MK

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Electrical maintenance is one of the things (aside from fuel) that prevents the catastrophe of getting stranded. Any electrical connection that you have access to, unplug it and inspect it for corrosion or burn marks, and clean it. Replace any connectors that have heat damage. The highest power connections are the highest risk of cumulative heat effects and that includes the stator, rectifier, and headlight connections.

I think I have Deoxit-D somewhere that I have used for cleaning contacts.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Yes yes yes & yes to all of what u said. get all that done.
Amsoil-big fan.
A change to ss brake lines/up graded pads will give u way better brakes.
Coolant flush.
Replace fuel lines.
Fuel filter.
Chain/sprockets?
Tires?
Bearings thru out?
Steering stabilizer?
Throttle cable service.
yadda yadda ya
A good tech taking his time will hand you a big bill for labor.
The list is long. Good tech=good advice. Bounce it off us if unsure.
Headlite,some like the HID's. I just plug an' play a higher wattage.
Performance upgrades? How much do you wanna spend.
Seriously,if you are happy with it the way it is,save the $$$$ from performance upgrades,spend it on bling instead.To achieve a few measly horse IMHO is not worth it. The dollar to HP equation is a joke. Some will argue with me...fug them Full exhaust,big dough.Little bit of extra HP.
All the easy bits can be changed for small gains...and you will be able to go faster for sure...because your wallet will be lighter.
Get a few nick-nacks to dress her up.Call it good.
Fast costs money. I wrote this up for another thread.Its my bike.
It's crack cocain my friend.Once you start,you'll be addicted.

Ultra Turbo Kit 550 Horse Power
HD valve springs
Stainless steel valves
Crower rods
Woessner pistons
1/2 head bolts
upgraded crank main bearings
upgraded con rod bearings
HD output shaft
Race cut gears
Old style shift forks (GEN I)
2 stage lock up clutch
Billet clutch basket
Billet clutch inner hub
Billet qwik access clutch cover
Ceramic coated dump pipes
Black anodized airbox
Ceramic coated compressor housing and charge tubes
AMS 1000
huge K & N air filter
Flashed factory ECU for higher rev limit and disable limiters
Head spacer
MSD digital shift light
Boost gauge
fuel pump

Other goodies:

FXA-1003 Air suspension
330 OSD 2-4 over swing arm (Roaring Toyz) powder coated black
RC Comp. Stocker wheel (powder coated black)
Avon 330 tire
Chain guard for OSD powder coated black
Black anodized billet convex mirrors
Hustler Black anodized billet/rubber grips
Roaring Toys plate/tag side mount, black anodized with L.E.D. light
black frame plug set
Air ride black anodized Air FX/micro switch (lowers fender to within 1 inch of tire)
Black Pazzo engraved levers
Hot Bodies tinted tail and signal lens(front & rear)
Zero Gravity tinted black double bubble
Spike bolts on all the body work and front fender,oil plug
Custom drag seat with red kanji
Stainless brake lines,HH pads
Custom one of brake and clutch res. caps.
Arashi rear sets red/blk
Brake rotors
Custom rear pillion with red kanji
Custom rear grab rail
Powder coated mounts for foot pegs (front & rear)
tank protector
spiked bar ends
Givi 35 ltr hard bags
Givi top box
Oxford tank bag
3 plugs for cell,GoPro,cigarette lighter
and last but not least....a nice Chinese battery to power it all up

Forgot some I'm sure. Show that to your tech,tell him you want all that,but newer/better...
Then leave a blank cheque,your American Express Unlimited card and perhaps your first born.
Then wait by the phone...for about 3-6 months.

Rubb

 

[rubbersidedown]

O ya...carbon fiber and titanium EVERYTHING is also a nice touch.
The higher mile per hour gauge cluster.(I'm after this)
Gauge face plates.(those too)
Carbon fiber wheels (just gotta have 'em)
Custom rear seat w/ detachable back rest(a want)
Custom grab bar with...its a surprise (wanted)
Custom hump(I want it)
Custom triple tree ( o ya)
Cruise control (need it)
Mount for GPS/GoPro (total need)
Custom rear pegs to match rearsets (It just looks outa place without 'em)
Custom fuel lid (sweet)
And blah blah blah

...and some of those sweet tire valve caps...the dice or the 8-balls

Rubb.

 

[Bumblebee]

If it is running fine, the maintenance is pretty simple, as was said, good time to change all fluids (coolant, brake and clutch), and plugs.

While the fairings are off, like was said, give all the E connectors a good look and check.

I'd be planning on changing out the fuel filter too...it's about the time to do this.

As for the headlight, even getting a different bulb might help before you go into the expense of HID or other types..

Do you have a manual? In that manual is a chart giving you all the intervals for maintenance.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Hi everyone! Hope all are well and enjoying the perfect riding weather! I have questions for the masters of this universe but first I feel it necessary to rave about our falcons. I have now had my 06 for 2ish years and I re fall in love with it every time I throw a leg over. Im not joking, I literally say aloud in my helmet GOD I LOVE THIS BIKE SO MUCH w an ear to ear grin every time it does something perfectly. Maybe I'm just getting a lot better w her but I feel she's doing me the favor. Ok, now that thats out the way, a few questions if u would be so kind. So, just crossed 20k and was wondering if there are things the experts would do when the fairings come off for the next oil/filter change. I personally have never had the plugs changed(got her at 7642mi), never had the valves checked, never changed a fuel filter, never changed the air filter(guy I bought off of changed it when I bought it, w old filter given to me as proof). I figure since the tech is gonna be all up in there I may as well ask y'all if u recommend anything that has worked for you. I would love any performance advice on top of what you think I NEED to do so I don't good time anything up. Im not super mechanical and tbh I am afraid to touch her in case I screw something up and find that out at 100mph. I guess I'm thinking its a 14yr old bike, are there things of concern? Also, the only thing non stock is a set of D&D cans(just slip ons). I will say given my limited knowledge, it does smell a lil rich at startup ( I choke the bike on warm up for prob 2mins EVERY time til the thermo reaches at minimum 25% of the temp gauge, like halfway between the lowest temp and the middle line. Also, been using Amsoil synthetic for the entirety of MY ownership, which was recommended by my tech who is an amateur superbike racer(ZX10 guy). Sorry I'm all over the place but she is my pride and joy truly and I want to do her right as well as get the most performance and longevity out of it. Thank you everyone who can help. I have taken past recommendations from here and couldn't be happier w the results so here I am once again. One more thing lol, anybody have any opinions on an upgrade for the headlight? Drop in bulb upgrade would be preferred, but also curious about conversions. I feel like I'm not getting enough light to get noticed as well as not seeing far enough down the road to be totally comfortable. Thanks for all the help in the past and the future. Be safe. Gratefully, MK

Some light reading
Rubb.

 

[mekaz]

Yes yes yes & yes to all of what u said. get all that done.
Amsoil-big fan.
A change to ss brake lines/up graded pads will give u way better brakes.
Coolant flush.
Replace fuel lines.
Fuel filter.
Chain/sprockets?
Tires?
Bearings thru out?
Steering stabilizer?
Throttle cable service.
yadda yadda ya
A good tech taking his time will hand you a big bill for labor.
The list is long. Good tech=good advice. Bounce it off us if unsure.
Headlite,some like the HID's. I just plug an' play a higher wattage.
Performance upgrades? How much do you wanna spend.
Seriously,if you are happy with it the way it is,save the $$$$ from performance upgrades,spend it on bling instead.To achieve a few measly horse IMHO is not worth it. The dollar to HP equation is a joke. Some will argue with me...fug them Full exhaust,big dough.Little bit of extra HP.
All the easy bits can be changed for small gains...and you will be able to go faster for sure...because your wallet will be lighter.
Get a few nick-nacks to dress her up.Call it good.
Fast costs money. I wrote this up for another thread.Its my bike.
It's crack cocain my friend.Once you start,you'll be addicted.

Ultra Turbo Kit 550 Horse Power
HD valve springs
Stainless steel valves
Crower rods
Woessner pistons
1/2 head bolts
upgraded crank main bearings
upgraded con rod bearings
HD output shaft
Race cut gears
Old style shift forks (GEN I)
2 stage lock up clutch
Billet clutch basket
Billet clutch inner hub
Billet qwik access clutch cover
Ceramic coated dump pipes
Black anodized airbox
Ceramic coated compressor housing and charge tubes
AMS 1000
huge K & N air filter
Flashed factory ECU for higher rev limit and disable limiters
Head spacer
MSD digital shift light
Boost gauge
fuel pump

Other goodies:

FXA-1003 Air suspension
330 OSD 2-4 over swing arm (Roaring Toyz) powder coated black
RC Comp. Stocker wheel (powder coated black)
Avon 330 tire
Chain guard for OSD powder coated black
Black anodized billet convex mirrors
Hustler Black anodized billet/rubber grips
Roaring Toys plate/tag side mount, black anodized with L.E.D. light
black frame plug set
Air ride black anodized Air FX/micro switch (lowers fender to within 1 inch of tire)
Black Pazzo engraved levers
Hot Bodies tinted tail and signal lens(front & rear)
Zero Gravity tinted black double bubble
Spike bolts on all the body work and front fender,oil plug
Custom drag seat with red kanji
Stainless brake lines,HH pads
Custom one of brake and clutch res. caps.
Arashi rear sets red/blk
Brake rotors
Custom rear pillion with red kanji
Custom rear grab rail
Powder coated mounts for foot pegs (front & rear)
tank protector
spiked bar ends
Givi 35 ltr hard bags
Givi top box
Oxford tank bag
3 plugs for cell,GoPro,cigarette lighter
and last but not least....a nice Chinese battery to power it all up

Forgot some I'm sure. Show that to your tech,tell him you want all that,but newer/better...
Then leave a blank cheque,your American Express Unlimited card and perhaps your first born.
Then wait by the phone...for about 3-6 months. View attachment 1621432
Rubb

OH.MY.GOD.BRO!!! Ur bike sounds like my next 50 christmases lol. I bet she's perfect. Yeah, did the SS lines on recco from here, love them. So much more precise and waaaaay better brake feel. put really good Michelins on, and other than quick wear, I am very confident leaned over and stopping which to me is worth the Michelin premium price. Im doing 3 to 1 rear to front replacement. Told this is normal as busas tend to eat rears. do u have a brake pad preference? I have been told EBC HH sintered work pretty well. Haven't changed fuel lines or bearings or TBH even knew that was a thing so thank u so much. Just asked on here bout gearing but I have never changed them. Wow! thank u so much for all that. I now have a checklist. Greatly appreciated sir.

 

[mekaz]

O ya...carbon fiber and titanium EVERYTHING is also a nice touch.
The higher mile per hour gauge cluster.(I'm after this)
Gauge face plates.(those too)
Carbon fiber wheels (just gotta have 'em)
Custom rear seat w/ detachable back rest(a want)
Custom grab bar with...its a surprise (wanted)
Custom hump(I want it)
Custom triple tree ( o ya)
Cruise control (need it)
Mount for GPS/GoPro (total need)
Custom rear pegs to match rearsets (It just looks outa place without 'em)
Custom fuel lid (sweet)
And blah blah blah

...and some of those sweet tire valve caps...the dice or the 8-balls View attachment 1621433

Rubb.

LMFAO!!!

If it is running fine, the maintenance is pretty simple, as was said, good time to change all fluids (coolant, brake and clutch), and plugs.

While the fairings are off, like was said, give all the E connectors a good look and check.

I'd be planning on changing out the fuel filter too...it's about the time to do this.

As for the headlight, even getting a different bulb might help before you go into the expense of HID or other types..

Do you have a manual? In that manual is a chart giving you all the intervals for maintenance.

I dont have a manual. I know I need one. OK so check all E connects replace based on inspection, all fluids gotta go, plugs too. I appreciate you. Thank you.

Yes yes yes & yes to all of what u said. get all that done.
Amsoil-big fan.
A change to ss brake lines/up graded pads will give u way better brakes.
Coolant flush.
Replace fuel lines.
Fuel filter.
Chain/sprockets?
Tires?
Bearings thru out?
Steering stabilizer?
Throttle cable service.
yadda yadda ya
A good tech taking his time will hand you a big bill for labor.
The list is long. Good tech=good advice. Bounce it off us if unsure.
Headlite,some like the HID's. I just plug an' play a higher wattage.
Performance upgrades? How much do you wanna spend.
Seriously,if you are happy with it the way it is,save the $$$$ from performance upgrades,spend it on bling instead.To achieve a few measly horse IMHO is not worth it. The dollar to HP equation is a joke. Some will argue with me...fug them Full exhaust,big dough.Little bit of extra HP.
All the easy bits can be changed for small gains...and you will be able to go faster for sure...because your wallet will be lighter.
Get a few nick-nacks to dress her up.Call it good.
Fast costs money. I wrote this up for another thread.Its my bike.
It's crack cocain my friend.Once you start,you'll be addicted.

Ultra Turbo Kit 550 Horse Power
HD valve springs
Stainless steel valves
Crower rods
Woessner pistons
1/2 head bolts
upgraded crank main bearings
upgraded con rod bearings
HD output shaft
Race cut gears
Old style shift forks (GEN I)
2 stage lock up clutch
Billet clutch basket
Billet clutch inner hub
Billet qwik access clutch cover
Ceramic coated dump pipes
Black anodized airbox
Ceramic coated compressor housing and charge tubes
AMS 1000
huge K & N air filter
Flashed factory ECU for higher rev limit and disable limiters
Head spacer
MSD digital shift light
Boost gauge
fuel pump

Other goodies:

FXA-1003 Air suspension
330 OSD 2-4 over swing arm (Roaring Toyz) powder coated black
RC Comp. Stocker wheel (powder coated black)
Avon 330 tire
Chain guard for OSD powder coated black
Black anodized billet convex mirrors
Hustler Black anodized billet/rubber grips
Roaring Toys plate/tag side mount, black anodized with L.E.D. light
black frame plug set
Air ride black anodized Air FX/micro switch (lowers fender to within 1 inch of tire)
Black Pazzo engraved levers
Hot Bodies tinted tail and signal lens(front & rear)
Zero Gravity tinted black double bubble
Spike bolts on all the body work and front fender,oil plug
Custom drag seat with red kanji
Stainless brake lines,HH pads
Custom one of brake and clutch res. caps.
Arashi rear sets red/blk
Brake rotors
Custom rear pillion with red kanji
Custom rear grab rail
Powder coated mounts for foot pegs (front & rear)
tank protector
spiked bar ends
Givi 35 ltr hard bags
Givi top box
Oxford tank bag
3 plugs for cell,GoPro,cigarette lighter
and last but not least....a nice Chinese battery to power it all up

Forgot some I'm sure. Show that to your tech,tell him you want all that,but newer/better...
Then leave a blank cheque,your American Express Unlimited card and perhaps your first born.
Then wait by the phone...for about 3-6 months. View attachment 1621432
Rubb

 

[rubbersidedown]

OH.MY.GOD.BRO!!! Ur bike sounds like my next 50 christmases lol. I bet she's perfect. Yeah, did the SS lines on recco from here, love them. So much more precise and waaaaay better brake feel. put really good Michelins on, and other than quick wear, I am very confident leaned over and stopping which to me is worth the Michelin premium price. Im doing 3 to 1 rear to front replacement. Told this is normal as busas tend to eat rears. do u have a brake pad preference? I have been told EBC HH sintered work pretty well. Haven't changed fuel lines or bearings or TBH even knew that was a thing so thank u so much. Just asked on here bout gearing but I have never changed them. Wow! thank u so much for all that. I now have a checklist. Greatly appreciated sir.

Anytime my friend. EBC HH are/were very popular,that's what I run.They gave you the speech about new tires I hope. They are greasy new.Lean them over slowly,then more and more. The release agent used in the mold makes them slippery when new and not yet "scuffed in." Did you get the manual? Click Here for a free one
There are a couple things to watch for when changing gearing.Get back here if you don't get all the answers in yer other thread.Lot's of opinions.You'll want some tips for the actual install too.
Ride it like you stole it...
Rubb.

 

[mekaz]

Some light reading
Rubb

Anytime my friend. EBC HH are/were very popular,that's what I run.They gave you the speech about new tires I hope. They are greasy new.Lean them over slowly,then more and more. The release agent used in the mold makes them slippery when new and not yet "scuffed in." Did you get the manual? Click Here for a free one
There are a couple things to watch for when changing gearing.Get back here if you don't get all the answers in yer other thread.Lot's of opinions.You'll want some tips for the actual install too.
Ride it like you stole it...
Rubb.

YESSSSS!!! thank you so much for the manuals! I really appreciate the expertise man. Yes, the tech literally told me " I want you to look at me...DO NOT accelerate hard even off a street corner for 25 miles of gentle riding or you will get bit hard" his words. This guy is a racer on a zx10 so I heed this mans word like it came out the Bible. Good looking out and making sure bro. I really appreciate that. Yea, I don't mean to ask so many noob type questions but hey... I AM a BUSA noob, and not ashamed to ask for help if I don't know what I'm doing. I really appreciate all the time and effort into helping me stay out the ground. TBH, I think Ima stick w stock gearing as she's plenty fast enough for street patrol. I am gonna take ur advice and go higher lumen/wattage than stock bulb. The LED conversion seems like it could cause a problem I cannot deal w in my garage. Im ordering the HH pads too. If I can ask u a question...so I'm 5'11,220 before helmet(shoei xfourteen), dianese leather jacket(perforated but fully armored F to R and heavy, prob 8-10lbs at least), Sidi boots, size 12, Scorpion gloves and jeans mostly. Would you say that I need my suspension correctly adjusted? I guess I'm maybe assuming the average person this bike was set up for(not as 'healthy"lol as myself), was a lot lighter than myself. It just feels like it compresses toooo easily, if that makes sense.Plus I noticed the dirt/grime mark on the gold fork was no more than an inch from bottom after a ride which was in no way hard. Thanks for any help bro. Appreciate u. Sincerely, MK

 

[mekaz]

If it is running fine, the maintenance is pretty simple, as was said, good time to change all fluids (coolant, brake and clutch), and plugs.

While the fairings are off, like was said, give all the E connectors a good look and check.

I'd be planning on changing out the fuel filter too...it's about the time to do this.

As for the headlight, even getting a different bulb might help before you go into the expense of HID or other types..

Do you have a manual? In that manual is a chart giving you all the intervals for maintenance.

Thanks for the response man!!! Rubbersidedown sent me the manual(thanks dude, props to you, seriously) so I got that. OK clutch...its time huh. Is there one you really like? Also, plugs. I see a lot of Dif opinions and thoroughly research them all, but I'm still all ears to ur personal opinion. She mostly stock(just a slip on), I do 500mi days at least twice a month, use premium(91-92oct) always, synth oil, if that matters. Don't race, but ride briskly often when safe-ish, lol. Thanks so much for your help. I really do appreciate it. Sincerely, MK

 

[Bumblebee]

Thanks for the response man!!! Rubbersidedown sent me the manual(thanks dude, props to you, seriously) so I got that. OK clutch...its time huh. Is there one you really like? Also, plugs. I see a lot of Dif opinions and thoroughly research them all, but I'm still all ears to ur personal opinion. She mostly stock(just a slip on), I do 500mi days at least twice a month, use premium(91-92oct) always, synth oil, if that matters. Don't race, but ride briskly often when safe-ish, lol. Thanks so much for your help. I really do appreciate it. Sincerely, MK

As for spark plugs, stock NGK are the way to go...they are iridium from the factory so no need for all those "gimmick" plugs.

Factory style clutch plates are also good for normal riding.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Thanks for the response man!!! Rubbersidedown sent me the manual(thanks dude, props to you, seriously) so I got that. OK clutch...its time huh. Is there one you really like? Also, plugs. I see a lot of Dif opinions and thoroughly research them all, but I'm still all ears to ur personal opinion. She mostly stock(just a slip on), I do 500mi days at least twice a month, use premium(91-92oct) always, synth oil, if that matters. Don't race, but ride briskly often when safe-ish, lol. Thanks so much for your help. I really do appreciate it. Sincerely, MK

Did I miss something re your clutch? Is it slipping or you just want to change the fluid? The fluid is just high quality DOT 4. Slippage is something we can address if needed.
Use a higher octane fuel.I run 94 if available.I will ride out of my way to get it.If on a longer trip and u need fuel,you need it,nothing you can do.
Suspension is a HUGE deal. Yes,set yer suspension up for your weight and riding style and conditions.Street settings are good for the street,but not so good for the track. Watch some vids on how to set the basics yourself.If not completely sure,get help from an' expert.Busa suspension is less than ideal in stock form. A pro will be able to get you a good baseline that you can tweak slightly yourself once you understand it all.I've had my suspension on my previous 4 Busa's(and Gixxers,CBR's,etc) set up by a tech who actually attended extra training to excell beyond the avg tech.Weeks of learning not only adjustments but also re-building.I guy in the know will walk you thru sag,un-sprung weight,dampening,re-bound,etc.2 people makes the job easier.My current Busa has the front set properly but has air ride on the back which is cool,but also a joke.
OIL: Oil is EVERYTHING. It's the difference between a long healthy life for your motor and one that can be cut short.Again,1000 opinions.Some use cheaper oil,change it more often. Some,the best money can buy,regular intervals or longer.Even Suzuki has changed their minds over the years.I went with what I know from 40 years of riding/research and the advice of 2 people.Just 2. I have a friend who is a brainiac and wants to know everything.He has attended days long seminars on oil. Ya,a bunch of guys sitting in a room talking nothing but oil.Fun right? NOT. LOL. Better him than us right. The other guy is pretty smart too. He built my motor and has his preference for oil. I run Amsoil 10/40 full syn.
I think we have you up to date MK. Your a polite dude who wants to learn and has my/our respect. Don't worry about asking or going on and on and fuggin on about things...look what you just had to read.

Rubb.

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

How bout some pics? Does it look like this?

 

[mekaz]

Did I miss something re your clutch? Is it slipping or you just want to change the fluid? The fluid is just high quality DOT 4. Slippage is something we can address if needed.
Use a higher octane fuel.I run 94 if available.I will ride out of my way to get it.If on a longer trip and u need fuel,you need it,nothing you can do.
Suspension is a HUGE deal. Yes,set yer suspension up for your weight and riding style and conditions.Street settings are good for the street,but not so good for the track. Watch some vids on how to set the basics yourself.If not completely sure,get help from an' expert.Busa suspension is less than ideal in stock form. A pro will be able to get you a good baseline that you can tweak slightly yourself once you understand it all.I've had my suspension on my previous 4 Busa's(and Gixxers,CBR's,etc) set up by a tech who actually attended extra training to excell beyond the avg tech.Weeks of learning not only adjustments but also re-building.I guy in the know will walk you thru sag,un-sprung weight,dampening,re-bound,etc.2 people makes the job easier.My current Busa has the front set properly but has air ride on the back which is cool,but also a joke.
OIL: Oil is EVERYTHING. It's the difference between a long healthy life for your motor and one that can be cut short.Again,1000 opinions.Some use cheaper oil,change it more often. Some,the best money can buy,regular intervals or longer.Even Suzuki has changed their minds over the years.I went with what I know from 40 years of riding/research and the advice of 2 people.Just 2. I have a friend who is a brainiac and wants to know everything.He has attended days long seminars on oil. Ya,a bunch of guys sitting in a room talking nothing but oil.Fun right? NOT. LOL. Better him than us right. The other guy is pretty smart too. He built my motor and has his preference for oil. I run Amsoil 10/40 full syn.
I think we have you up to date MK. Your a polite dude who wants to learn and has my/our respect. Don't worry about asking or going on and on and fuggin on about things...look what you just had to read. View attachment 1621569
Rubb.

HAHAHA, thanks man, really.Seriously, I'm grateful for all of thi

How bout some pics? Does it look like this?View attachment 1621583

Did I miss something re your clutch? Is it slipping or you just want to change the fluid? The fluid is just high quality DOT 4. Slippage is something we can address if needed.
Use a higher octane fuel.I run 94 if available.I will ride out of my way to get it.If on a longer trip and u need fuel,you need it,nothing you can do.
Suspension is a HUGE deal. Yes,set yer suspension up for your weight and riding style and conditions.Street settings are good for the street,but not so good for the track. Watch some vids on how to set the basics yourself.If not completely sure,get help from an' expert.Busa suspension is less than ideal in stock form. A pro will be able to get you a good baseline that you can tweak slightly yourself once you understand it all.I've had my suspension on my previous 4 Busa's(and Gixxers,CBR's,etc) set up by a tech who actually attended extra training to excell beyond the avg tech.Weeks of learning not only adjustments but also re-building.I guy in the know will walk you thru sag,un-sprung weight,dampening,re-bound,etc.2 people makes the job easier.My current Busa has the front set properly but has air ride on the back which is cool,but also a joke.
OIL: Oil is EVERYTHING. It's the difference between a long healthy life for your motor and one that can be cut short.Again,1000 opinions.Some use cheaper oil,change it more often. Some,the best money can buy,regular intervals or longer.Even Suzuki has changed their minds over the years.I went with what I know from 40 years of riding/research and the advice of 2 people.Just 2. I have a friend who is a brainiac and wants to know everything.He has attended days long seminars on oil. Ya,a bunch of guys sitting in a room talking nothing but oil.Fun right? NOT. LOL. Better him than us right. The other guy is pretty smart too. He built my motor and has his preference for oil. I run Amsoil 10/40 full syn.
I think we have you up to date MK. Your a polite dude who wants to learn and has my/our respect. Don't worry about asking or going on and on and fuggin on about things...look what you just had to read. View attachment 1621569
Rubb.

hahaha, thanks bro. I really do wanna learn. You have my respect as well.I appreciate the polite compliment. Respect is earned when respect is given.Thanks for being so cool. I live in SoCal so u could prob imagine the poop I go thru when I ask genuine questions. Its a minefield w some of these ppl, and I've had to put my hands in my pockets a few times, if u get what I'm saying. Im not stupid, I just lack knowledge. OK so I'm using the same oil as you, which means my tech wasn't just trying to sell me the expensive oil change. The clutch thing was recommended by another member since I'm at 20 and have never done it and the fairings were gonna be off. I do not know the last time the clutch fluid was changed.Do you have a clutch that you prefer by chance? Currently I have an OEM from Suzuki, but I think I may want something w a lil more bite. A lil more quick grab I feel would be a lil more to my liking. Not saying the OEM boys didn't know what they were doing, I just like a more positive or direct feel if that makes any sense. Lol, while I don't envy the engineers literally sitting around a table talking dinosaur juice, I'm sure glad they do it for us.I love this bike so much, so I will never cut corners on something that asks so little but gives me so much. l don't know if the clutch is slipping TBH but I do notice that towards the end of the oil change interval(I do 2500-3000max), I miss gears and sometimes I get a false neutral tween 5-6. I gotta give it an extra kick up. extra force I mean. Is this a thing or am I not being direct enough w enough force? my shop are truly a bunch of really good people, but they have their limitations, which they were honest about, and when I told them I talked on here w those intimately involved w busas, especially the suspension part, they said when I'm ready, they would send me to a guy like u mentioned who specializes in such things. Im gonna binge youtube for things that I can do too. Seriously, thank u so much for all of this. I hate walking in to a situation without being armed w at least a general idea of whats going on. If I can pick your brain again, the bike has been stalling lately at low revs after I warm it up to 25% of temp gauge capacity and after I refuel and rev even tho in the last example it is plenty warm, just the time it takes to fill tank. a member recco'd replacing the fuel lines and filter, both of which I have never done.Do injectors play into this? Any expertise is so greatly appreciated. thanks man, really. Sincerely, MK

 

[mekaz]

How bout some pics? Does it look like this?View attachment 1621583

YES!!! LOL but not as cool. The rims and rotors look so great. I got a SS D&D exhaust but exact color scheme. Damn that looks so good. LOL I do have red brake n clutch lines from galfer which look cool if u brought ur microscope, and a rear fender delete. I love the way those black cans look. I'm not so good at internetting lol but I will try to send a pic when I got it.

 

[rubbersidedown]

HAHAHA, thanks man, really.Seriously, I'm grateful for all of thi


hahaha, thanks bro. I really do wanna learn. You have my respect as well.I appreciate the polite compliment. Respect is earned when respect is given.Thanks for being so cool. I live in SoCal so u could prob imagine the poop I go thru when I ask genuine questions. Its a minefield w some of these ppl, and I've had to put my hands in my pockets a few times, if u get what I'm saying. Im not stupid, I just lack knowledge. OK so I'm using the same oil as you, which means my tech wasn't just trying to sell me the expensive oil change. The clutch thing was recommended by another member since I'm at 20 and have never done it and the fairings were gonna be off. I do not know the last time the clutch fluid was changed.Do you have a clutch that you prefer by chance? Currently I have an OEM from Suzuki, but I think I may want something w a lil more bite. A lil more quick grab I feel would be a lil more to my liking. Not saying the OEM boys didn't know what they were doing, I just like a more positive or direct feel if that makes any sense. Lol, while I don't envy the engineers literally sitting around a table talking dinosaur juice, I'm sure glad they do it for us.I love this bike so much, so I will never cut corners on something that asks so little but gives me so much. l don't know if the clutch is slipping TBH but I do notice that towards the end of the oil change interval(I do 2500-3000max), I miss gears and sometimes I get a false neutral tween 5-6. I gotta give it an extra kick up. extra force I mean. Is this a thing or am I not being direct enough w enough force? my shop are truly a bunch of really good people, but they have their limitations, which they were honest about, and when I told them I talked on here w those intimately involved w busas, especially the suspension part, they said when I'm ready, they would send me to a guy like u mentioned who specializes in such things. Im gonna binge youtube for things that I can do too. Seriously, thank u so much for all of this. I hate walking in to a situation without being armed w at least a general idea of whats going on. If I can pick your brain again, the bike has been stalling lately at low revs after I warm it up to 25% of temp gauge capacity and after I refuel and rev even tho in the last example it is plenty warm, just the time it takes to fill tank. a member recco'd replacing the fuel lines and filter, both of which I have never done.Do injectors play into this? Any expertise is so greatly appreciated. thanks man, really. Sincerely, MK

Putting your hands in your pockets. I understand completely.

Your clutch.Some will say,if it ain't broke,don't fix it. Qwik test to see if its slipping(but I think you would have noticed already) find a big long hill.Get in 3rd or 4th. Snap the throttle hard.You'll hear and feel a slipping clutch.
If it is slipping,we can walk you thru repairing it yourself.I'm guessing it is fine.You have low miles on it and are not a drag racer.
Clutch feel. There are only 2 ways to adjust the feel of a Busa clutch that I know of.One is the multi-position lever.Set it were you like it. The other is a medium sized job. Change the clutch "stack height." Your clutch has steels and fibers. You can alter the number of each to achieve certain things.Don't bother with that right now IMHO.
Clutch parts. There are aftermarket parts for a Busa clutch. You don't really need any of them.(more for drag racers) But we can set you up if you really want to go that route.
Your tires. Good on the tech for his/my warning. Even with "scrubbed in" tires,always get them warmed up before canyon carving.Hitting the twisties with cold tires is not good.
False neutral. Thats a thing common to a lot of bikes,especially some Zooks including the Busa.They can have an "issue" going from 1st to 2nd and from 5th to 6th. 1st to 2nd is actually a real thing. Guys have had major tranny issues over the years because of this.There is a very costly prohibitive measure.You pull the motor out,dis-assemble and "cut" the gears.The gears have sharp edges.Cutting the edges allows them to mesh together easier.You don't have to do this thou,unless you want to. My advice: Stomp on that shifter.Really think about gear changes and smack them hard. Won't hurt anything. I have done this on bikes before: Some refer to it as MotoGp shifting.You take off the shift linkage and reverse it.It takes some getting use to,I don't recomend it for any one as now you would kick down on the shifter to gear up. Lift up on the shifter to gear down.It is easy to fukk up and forget thou,which can be catastrophic.If you ever NEED to split the case halves (term for for disassembly of motor) thats when u can get race cut gears and Gen I shift forks (they are better than Gen II's) that's opinion also.
Stalling. That could be a number of issues.Stalling cold or stalling hot as you have.I mentioned fuel lines and fuel filter as did someone else you said.Thats routine maintenance.That may help a stalling issue,but I doubt it. Dirty fuel filter usaully affects hot or cold motors.If a tune-up is due,start there.
Your injectors. if the bike has sat for a really long time injectors can get "gummed up." Thats a term used to describe the deposits left behind after gasoline vaporizes.Removal of the injectors is nessecary if they are really bad. For your situation I would recomend some "miracle-in-a-can" or "mechanic-in-a-bottle" LOL. Terms used to describe fuel cleaners/additives. Most used are yer STP or CleanFlo or Royal Purple etc.Most MC techs swear by SeaFoam. I used it for years myself,till I asked around.A good member on the site turned me on to this idea.Go to a German car dealership to get it. Click here bro That stuff is plenty powerful. I had instant results.
I think that was all you asked this time. Tune in next time for another edition of "Rubb Knows Fukk All."

Rubb.

 

[fallenarch]

If I can ask u a question...so I'm 5'11,220 before helmet(shoei xfourteen), dianese leather jacket(perforated but fully armored F to R and heavy, prob 8-10lbs at least), Sidi boots, size 12, Scorpion gloves and jeans mostly. Would you say that I need my suspension correctly adjusted? I guess I'm maybe assuming the average person this bike was set up for(not as 'healthy"lol as myself), was a lot lighter than myself. It just feels like it compresses toooo easily, if that makes sense.Plus I noticed the dirt/grime mark on the gold fork was no more than an inch from bottom after a ride which was in no way hard. Thanks for any help bro. Appreciate u. Sincerely, MK

Your "dirt/grime mark" comment makes me think you may have a leaky fork seal. If your oil is gone or very low that would account for the easy compression. At your weight the bike should be rideable if difficult to get perfect. The easy compressing forks means more than likely the forks don't have oil in them.

The fix for this is to have the seals replaced, probably a $200-300 service. If your guy is a racer maybe he can setup the suspension for you after the forks are serviced.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Your "dirt/grime mark" comment makes me think you may have a leaky fork seal. If your oil is gone or very low that would account for the easy compression. At your weight the bike should be rideable if difficult to get perfect. The easy compressing forks means more than likely the forks don't have oil in them.

The fix for this is to have the seals replaced, probably a $200-300 service. If your guy is a racer maybe he can setup the suspension for you after the forks are serviced.

Fallen is correct MK. The loss of oil means a bigger area for air. Air compress's more easily than oil. I missed where you mentioned you had oil on your fork stanchions (the shiney chrome tubes).
Rubb.

 

[mekaz]

Putting your hands in your pockets. I understand completely.

Your clutch.Some will say,if it ain't broke,don't fix it. Qwik test to see if its slipping(but I think you would have noticed already) find a big long hill.Get in 3rd or 4th. Snap the throttle hard.You'll hear and feel a slipping clutch.
If it is slipping,we can walk you thru repairing it yourself.I'm guessing it is fine.You have low miles on it and are not a drag racer.
Clutch feel. There are only 2 ways to adjust the feel of a Busa clutch that I know of.One is the multi-position lever.Set it were you like it. The other is a medium sized job. Change the clutch "stack height." Your clutch has steels and fibers. You can alter the number of each to achieve certain things.Don't bother with that right now IMHO.
Clutch parts. There are aftermarket parts for a Busa clutch. You don't really need any of them.(more for drag racers) But we can set you up if you really want to go that route.
Your tires. Good on the tech for his/my warning. Even with "scrubbed in" tires,always get them warmed up before canyon carving.Hitting the twisties with cold tires is not good.
False neutral. Thats a thing common to a lot of bikes,especially some Zooks including the Busa.They can have an "issue" going from 1st to 2nd and from 5th to 6th. 1st to 2nd is actually a real thing. Guys have had major tranny issues over the years because of this.There is a very costly prohibitive measure.You pull the motor out,dis-assemble and "cut" the gears.The gears have sharp edges.Cutting the edges allows them to mesh together easier.You don't have to do this thou,unless you want to. My advice: Stomp on that shifter.Really think about gear changes and smack them hard. Won't hurt anything. I have done this on bikes before: Some refer to it as MotoGp shifting.You take off the shift linkage and reverse it.It takes some getting use to,I don't recomend it for any one as now you would kick down on the shifter to gear up. Lift up on the shifter to gear down.It is easy to fukk up and forget thou,which can be catastrophic.If you ever NEED to split the case halves (term for for disassembly of motor) thats when u can get race cut gears and Gen I shift forks (they are better than Gen II's) that's opinion also.
Stalling. That could be a number of issues.Stalling cold or stalling hot as you have.I mentioned fuel lines and fuel filter as did someone else you said.Thats routine maintenance.That may help a stalling issue,but I doubt it. Dirty fuel filter usaully affects hot or cold motors.If a tune-up is due,start there.
Your injectors. if the bike has sat for a really long time injectors can get "gummed up." Thats a term used to describe the deposits left behind after gasoline vaporizes.Removal of the injectors is nessecary if they are really bad. For your situation I would recomend some "miracle-in-a-can" or "mechanic-in-a-bottle" LOL. Terms used to describe fuel cleaners/additives. Most used are yer STP or CleanFlo or Royal Purple etc.Most MC techs swear by SeaFoam. I used it for years myself,till I asked around.A good member on the site turned me on to this idea.Go to a German car dealership to get it. Click here bro That stuff is plenty powerful. I had instant results.
I think that was all you asked this time. Tune in next time for another edition of "Rubb Knows Fukk All." View attachment 1621711
Rubb.

Rubb, u need to write a book. For real. OK so I did the hill thing twice and 3rd spooled right up and 4th just bogged down briefly for a second or two but no abnormal sounds, so thats good news right? Yea, glad u mentioned it, I get the 1-2 miss as well at the end of my oil.I keep saying end of my oil, idk if thats a thing but thats when it gets my attention and occurs more frequently. I also get it randomly, but in the bikes defense, its not her its me. I like the advice, shift like u mean it. LOL, which is funny cuz 99% of the time, I ride her like my VFR800, in the band just in case but not anything near hard or beating on it. My poor VFR must be so jealous. This bike literally does everything as the Honda but better. Except insurance of course. Had to buy a batt tender for her after the Busa. I feel guilty at times lol. I think you're right bout it being tune up time. Don't get me wrong, she's still the apex predator on PCH but, yeah, something is missing and my guess is it may be neglect on my part. OK cool.NICE!!! I got a Beemer/benz autohaus lol, down the block. I will go see whats up. HAHAHA, dude, a podcast on Busas called that very thing should be in your future. Thank you for all this so much. Appreciate u and ur time. Sincerely, MK