2nd gear issue re-visited

loboboy

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Hey guys, like a few others around here I am having the 2nd gear issue or it pops out of gear under heavy acceleration.
The twist is this, if I launch the bike as if I was drag racing it and shift into 2nd gear it does not slip out when under acceleration clear to redline, but if I shift normally into 2nd and then roll into the throttle once i hit around 8500-9000RPM it will pop out of second.

Just for conversation sake why do you think it acts this way???
 
no dragracing or track 2nd gear is skipping around 7500 rpms took it the dealers and they said 2nd is gone home boy in texas 05 busa 6 months 2nd gear gone trying to find out if this is common problem with the busa and why the warranty wont covered this cost to fix is
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$1200
 
I had  a similar problem on my 2001 Busa.  It got to the point that it did'nt matter how I aproached 2nd, at around 6k and higher it would start to slip out of gear.  I had about 12-15k hard miles and beginner miles at that.  After calling around diff. dealers and asking on other forums I was told the cush drives,linkage, clutch plates, clutch slave cylinder, spockets and chain would all need to be checked,  All checked out fine. So then I came to realize something serious was going on. Think about it. If it was anything else it would happen in other gears too. Nope just 2nd.  I got an estimate of around $800 to a Grand to replace 2nd gear only from the shop.  That's not including any other parts that may need to be replaced.  So I dealt with it for about two years and then I came across a Haynes Service and Repair Manual on ebay for Busas.  I studied that book like a grad student.  I ordered all the necessary parts and on the week of July 4th 2006 I  went at it.  By the way, the parts need to be ordered about 3 or so months ahead of time the shift forks were 3 months back order alone.  I went ahead and bought a used tranny off ebay for around $250 and had it back cut at my little secret shop.  I then ordered all shift forks, shift fork shafts, gaskets, upgrade my clutch components to the current models, shift drum, new chain, sprockets, shift spring, shift cam arm, pair valve block offs and a full D&D 4-2-2 system all total around $1,700 to $1,900.  The dealer said it was a 12hr job, took me 3.5 days with family around and chasing kids around after they still my parts lying around.   I had to make a few special sockets to remove the engine.  The actual process of removing the tranny took 5-10 min.  It was removing all the other things to get to it that took the most time.  I am glad I got the chance to open here up and experience it, and I owe a big thanks to the people who wrote that haynes manual it was very helpful.  I sent my tranny out to have its 2nd gear back cut and sent my old shift forks, shafts and drum to have them gauged.  One of the shafts were bent, the drum was worn not bad but replaced all the same, 2nd and 3rd gear was worn and the forks were ground down.  He said it can come from resting your foot on the petal or a bent fork.  My point is this, if you are going to do it your self order everything other wise your bike will sit for a long time waiting for something to come off back order.  But when I put that backcut tranny in she shifts like butter. Sometimes you don't even feel it go in gear but its in there.  Manufactures don't backcut 2nd for some reason but all other gears.  May  for return business, I don't know.  

I just let one of my buddies with a 04 limited ed busa buy mine with a trade of course.  He only had about 1500 hard miles on his bike.  He let some other people ride most of the time.  But I saved him from getting oiled up big time.  He came out spending about $1200  at the dealer (New rear tire).  They kept his bike for about a month and a half.  The reason I did'nt do it for him is if something was to happen to him or the bike I don't think I could handle it.  Some people say the busa is the only bike that has this problem but all bikes have it.  Return business I guess.  

If you want some more info about doing it yourself let me know at jedmond@3rddoor.com
 
I think I am going to do it myself. I have been working on motorcycle engines for several years now so I am sure I can figure it out. I was wondering though did you disassemble the top end of the motor or just flip it upside down and remove the lower engine case?
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? If you could do this it would save alot of work and time, not to mention the gaskets.
 
You do not have to disassemble the top end. You don't have to adjust the timing or anything.  You do have to remove the water pump which has a o-ring that makes the seal between it and the engine, go adhead and get one of those and a water pump rebuild kit if you have a lot of miles or see any coolant or oil around the small drain hole on it at the bottom. It is very easy to rebuild just two seals and o-ring that holds that seals the two halfs and o-ring that mounts outside when you slide it into engine.  It is good to do it while since coolant and oil is drained.  When you remove the motor you have to remove all of the covers: clutch, stator, starter, oil pan. You have to remove the clutch basket.   The one suprise I had was having to remove the crank balancer to get to one of the lower crankcase bolts which all need to be torque because it is what holds the crank bearings.  You need to mark it before you remove it and still may need to adjust it after you put everything back together.   the book says set the timing marks on the starter gears and it should put the marks on it inline.  I did'nt do that so the marks wont inline. So I mark it.  Some bolts have sealing washers so make sure they get back to the same place, I also ordered some of those too because they can be in some tight places to get to when every things back together. When you get it all apart you will be looking at the tranny sitting beside the crank.  I just turned 27k on mine and I think when I decide to go through it I might spruce it up with light stroke crank and slight bore kit 1364 or so. Try to keep it light to keep heat prob. to min.  I will also install the spare fan I picked up about 4 or 5 years ago for $15.  Make sure you have some space to work and get your self a tackle box type storage container for the bolts.  Gasket maker (I used some Honda brand from the local shop) it was grey in color.  When you do the tranny go ahead and do some other mods to because it will be the perfect op.  Look at me just going on and on.  Just let me know if I am babbling on.
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(Haya01B @ Oct. 01 2007,03:51)  Some people say the busa is the only bike that has this problem but all bikes have it.  Return business I guess.  
Exactly! It happens - and since it's a sportbike no one ever believes it wasn't abuse.

Haya01B, very impressive work doing that yourself!
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I'm pretty mechanically inclined but I'm taking mine to someone that does it everyday of every week.
 
Good choice because you have somebody to blame other than your self if something goes wrong. Keep a check on them when they are working on your bike and asked them questions about what they are doing and if you suspect something fowl hit me up and I or someone here will help you get to the bottom of it. Inspect your bike when you get it back make sure nothing looks like it is missing even to the fairing bolts. I have worked on some of my buddies bikes and seen bolts missing that only the dealer would have touched when they had it worked on. They are not cheap either.

Some reason when I take my bike to get it inspected they all ways screw with my idle speed. Have it about to choke out. I hate that. I even check my bike out when they inspect it. They will steal or lose your parts.

I have a buddy that got pinched for not having a inspection sticker update about 3 or 4 years ago during labor day weekend. He just told me before we set out to ride that he never had it inspected and how they don't check bikes. I told him that they just passed a law not too long ago that you will be fined if you get caught. We fell into a check point in Rocky Mount, NC and he got a hefty $115 fine. Yeap! over a $9.15 or so sticker and about 15-30min of his time.
 
(Haya01B @ Oct. 01 2007,17:40) Good choice because you have somebody to blame other than your self if something goes wrong.  Keep a check on them when they are working on your bike and asked them questions about what they are doing and if you suspect something fowl hit me up and I or someone here will help you get to the bottom of it.  Inspect your bike when you get it back make sure nothing looks like it is missing even to the fairing bolts.  I have worked on some of my buddies bikes and seen bolts missing that only the dealer would have touched when they had it worked on.  They are not cheap either.

Some reason when I take my bike to get it inspected they all ways screw with my idle speed. Have it about to choke out.  I hate that.   I even check my bike out when they inspect it.  They will steal or lose your parts.  

I have a buddy that got pinched for not having a inspection sticker update about 3 or 4 years ago during labor day weekend.  He just told me before we set out to ride that he never had it inspected and how they don't check bikes. I told him that they just passed a law not too long ago that you will be fined if you get caught.  We fell into a  check point in Rocky Mount, NC and he got a hefty $115 fine.  Yeap!  over a $9.15 or so sticker and about 15-30min of his time.
The guy doing mine is an old pro doing it out of his own shop - nothing at all to do with a dealer. He comes highly recommended by other people I know - so I trust him explicitly.

The bad thing is I have to take my bike 3 hours each way to get him to work on it. But ... with the options I have here (dumb@ss dealers with armed with only a tech manual) it was my only choice.

I'm having him do lots more than just the tranny - pretty much a complete overhaul.
 
its good to know that I can just remove the lower engine case, boy that helps alot. Is there any special pullers for the crank balancer? Also does the flywheel needto be removed?
 
You don't need a puller for the crank balancer it is has a shaft that slides in from side of the engine and goes through balancer assembly. There is a cover over the assembly inside the case. Remove the cover and the balancer will be exposed. Also note where the adjustment is set at on the outside of the engine case where the shaft is exposed. It is clamped in place.

The flywheel is on the outer clutch basket. You will need to buy a clutch holding tool that looks just like a super sized pair of vise grips that has no teeth and the tips art bent 90deg. to hold the basket while you remove the nut that holds it in. You can find them on ebay for around $20 to $35, I called all around town and could'nt find one. Watch for the washers and such when you take it apart.

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