Аluminum welding or what?Strange problem!!!

mitiracing

mitiracing

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Hi everuone.I am new in this forum, but I hope someone can help me with advice.I have a Hayabusa 2001 and today I noticed a strange watery oil left over from the crankcase. Cleaned the place and found a defect in the welding factory. My question is who is right and ripe option to fix the problem, welding, silicone or liquid metal.Sometimes understood as welding can complicate things in the engine problems.Thank you in advance!!! :please:BikePics.com
 
Can't tell, but I would think that is a casting mark vs. weld, but hard to tell. They use to heliarc
 
Hard to see in the pic, you might be able to plug with a competent welder, but some JB weld might do the trick. Welcome to the org, others will chime in soon. Wish I could help further.
 
first off is it leaking? (appears pretty dry from photo) and what did you use to check this... looks like a 2 part dye check you used (better suited for cracks than oil leaks)

also looks to be a casting flaw.. if all that is is a hollow cavity, forget it... is not stressed portion of the block.. you need to go up another couple inches to the parting line of the case to get anywhere near a stressed member

Porous castings (non-pressurized) can be fixed with JB weld.. we used the stuff at GM to patch porous blocks (GM had a problem with the 2.0L cast iron motor in the the Chevette).. Thorough cleaning with solvent based brake clean, and apply the 2 part epoxy.. age 24 hours..
 
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Is that pt on there? If you got that you should know ab out welding it.

Unplug ecu and keep the ground as close as possible. Clean it thouroughly and when welding cast a bunch of tras can or can't come to the surface. If it does take a tiger disc and buf it back down then try again. You need 100percent tungsten and an ac source. Go to a welding shop they'll reccomend a filler rod from what they carry.
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mattstang said:
Is that pt on there? If you got that you should know ab out welding it.

Unplug ecu and keep the ground as close as possible. Clean it thouroughly and when welding cast a bunch of tras can or can't come to the surface. If it does take a tiger disc and buf it back down then try again. You need 100percent tungsten and an ac source. Go to a welding shop they'll reccomend a filler rod from what they carry.
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Will you explain me a little bit more about the method , because I'm not 100% in English. Bother me not to get something like pores in the camps and then open the engine, after 500 miles
 
Use the two part method mr. Bogus was talking about, if your a competent welder and need specific advice let me know. Ill help if I can.

Find some scrap cast alum. And practice if you've never welded it before.

As said before your electrode needs to be 100 percent tungsten. Unsharpened and clean. Floor your machine it'll ball up then your ready there. Get the biggest cup you have and keep filler wire in shielded zone or it will oxidize and won't wanna puddle right.

With welding near electronics. Unplug your ecu and battery. Keep your ground close to are of work on same part.

Or you could epoxy it and hope it stays on. Which it should if applied correctly.

Imho I would weld it just because I can.
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Mr Bogus said:
first off is it leaking? (appears pretty dry from photo) and what did you use to check this... looks like a 2 part dye check you used (better suited for cracks than oil leaks)

also looks to be a casting flaw.. if all that is is a hollow cavity, forget it... is not stressed portion of the block.. you need to go up another couple inches to the parting line of the case to get anywhere near a stressed member

Porous castings (non-pressurized) can be fixed with JB weld.. we used the stuff at GM to patch porous blocks (GM had a problem with the 2.0L cast iron motor in the the Chevette).. Thorough cleaning with solvent based brake clean, and apply the 2 part epoxy.. age 24 hours..
Click to expand...

The picture is not very clear here, the place was already cleaned and checked. I used the spray to check the cracks in the aluminum parts recommended by Suzuki. Indeed, the point which I have noted one flaw which also tears.I'm not sure whether it will happen with epoxy because I think that aluminum has a greater expansion by heat.
 
I've never welded aluminum so I will try the method with epoxy unless I have a friend who gets involved with welds. Thank you guys having to write result
 
I would try the epoxy first because it is the simplist fix. If it still leaks, you can do what Matt is recommending. I cant weld very well, so I have to try the easy things first.

Matt, could he get by with a shielded wire? Or is it that important to have a shielding gas?
 
If you have not welded before starting on the engine of your bike is not the best choice. You are better off paying the bill to a skilled welder. Like somebody else said unplug the computer + the battery. When you hook up the ground clamp place it very close to the spot you are welding...it would be possible that the bearings on the crank could get fused by having the ground on the other side of the block. That might be a 1% chance, but proper placment of the ground is good insurance.

The 2 part expoxy seems like a good first attempt. Clean it and then clean it again...then work the mixed epoxy into the area.
 
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twotonevert said:
Matt, could he get by with a shielded wire? Or is it that important to have a shielding gas?
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Single shielded wire is plain horrible to weld anything with. I don't use it on anything. I've worked at shops that use it and I've never like the quality of the weld it makes. I don't belive they make if for anyhting other than carbon steel. But I've never looked into it.

Closest thing to a wire I would reccomend would be a spool gun with 100 percent argon as a shielding gas. I really don't like welding cast with them becuase your not really watching the puddle. Your filling and fusing at same time. Cast can have so much trash you can heat it and it come to surface and cause a pinhole or a non fusion line and leak worse.

If you heat it with a tig setup you could actually fuse it without any filler if it'll flow. If not a couple drops of filler will be all he needs then wash it around.
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RYC1966 said:
If you have not welded before starting on the engine of your bike is not the best choice. You are better off paying the bill to a skilled welder. Like somebody else said unplug the computer + the battery. When you hook up the ground clamp place it very close to the spot you are welding...it would be possible that the bearings on the crank could get fused by having the ground on the other side of the block. That might be a 1% chance, but proper placment of the ground is good insurance.
.
Click to expand...

Yep. Along with stator problems relays burnt etc.
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Mr Bogus said:
still dont know if it is even leaking.. :laugh:
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Doubtful it is. Even if it is and its not cracked, (which having a crack without some sort of abuse or damage is nearly impossible) its just a weep hole. Epoxy would work, but like I said. I would weld it if it were mine and leaking because I can. Kinda like jb weld can fix a radiator or a gas tank but you won't be seeing it on mine, just out of personal preferance. lol.
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mattstang said:
Doubtful it is. Even if it is and its not cracked, (which having a crack without some sort of abuse or damage is nearly impossible) its just a weep hole. Epoxy would work, but like I said. I would weld it if it were mine and leaking because I can. Kinda like jb weld can fix a radiator or a gas tank but you won't be seeing it on mine, just out of personal preferance. lol.
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just looks to be an imperfection in the casting is all.. (Ferrari melts these down on their motors and start over..)

if it is not leaking, just not sure why it is being fooled with is all.. the bike is not exactly "new"
 
Dunno what made them break the pt out but doesn't look like it was applied right in the first place which easily can cause a false indication.

For a good test part should be cleaned with the solvent cleaner. Dried. Pt applied then allowed dwell time per man spec, then cleaned with solvent or water depending on pt. Then developed properly. Looks like almost all the steps were ignored except apply pt. Lol.
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