would it work HEAD CAM COMBO advice!!!

AsleepAtTheTree

AsleepAtTheTree

Registered
Hey yall...
Thinkin bout pulling my head myself to learn a bit abt this baby busa...gen 1

Q#1 could i use stock oem cam sprockets to avoid degreeing adjustable sprockets
Q#2 would 400-420 lift cam work and clear TDC, stock duration and other specs(unless otherwise needed)
Q#3 with mentioned above plus 70pnd cam springs and bored 46-49mm throttle bodies allow me to run dead nut 12k rpm...no more no less...reliably

Now...plz...dont give me the "why more rpm" or "spend ya money, do it right" lecture lmao, plz dont lol, i jus wanna know if anyone thinks this is achievable and or advice to MAKE it possible?

If rods, bearings, anything other than head work is needed...im not doing it!!! I seen a few google searches that mentioned the gen 1 was capable of such rpm but wasnt given any specs to do so...so im here at my favorite forum!!!

Thanks again guys...
 
1. Aftermarket cans w oem sprockets ? Not gonna happen. You will never press them on where you want. If you can’t degree cams step away and pay someone to teach you and or do it
2. Will clear with proper cam timing. But the head needs to be removed and the guides pushed down
3. With big enough cams and the right cam timing compression and head work it will pull to 12k. Even without the bored throttle bodies.
 
AsleepAtTheTree said:
...allow me to run dead nut 12k rpm...no more no less...reliably
Click to expand...

(For others' reference.)

Scream a busa thread

Your phrasing appears like you want to hold it at 12k all the way down the street. Is that the goal? Is this what "scream a motor" means? (I am unfamiliar with "scream" as a transitive verb, but regrettably I am painfully ignorant in much of the lingo around here.)
 
Mr Brown said:
Why?
Anything can be done given enough time and/or money, but what are you trying to accomplish?
Click to expand...
No major reason why other than i jus wanna give it a shot for myself see how it turns out and something different than whats out local to me, most ppl here either 1397, 1441 and blowing down the house wit nitrous but i havent seen a screaming stock bore and bottom end gen1 or 2

Plus...after running with a few other guys out here, ive noticed that i run pretty close to newer 1k who are jus flashed/tuned and geared with abt a 200pnd weight difference and i know they can turn 12-13k easily so if i could juuuuuus nudge those little bit of rpm i can steal a few more mph and quicker times

The idea comes from me thinkin about a stock 1k only having 999cc or so but making the same power or better with the busa 299 more cc can make waaaaay more power at the same rpm if only the head and cams can be opened up

I know its "why bother" but im jus weird like that lol im hard headed and like doing poop the difficult different way...........JUS BC!!!
 
202mphbusa said:
1. Aftermarket cans w oem sprockets ? Not gonna happen. You will never press them on where you want. If you can’t degree cams step away and pay someone to teach you and or do it
2. Will clear with proper cam timing. But the head needs to be removed and the guides pushed down
3. With big enough cams and the right cam timing compression and head work it will pull to 12k. Even without the bored throttle bodies.
Click to expand...
Yessir @202mphbusa exactly the kind of info im lookin for...

hope the thread can bring abt more
 
Hayabusa Wannabe said:
(For others' reference.)

Scream a busa thread

Your phrasing appears like you want to hold it at 12k all the way down the street. Is that the goal? Is this what "scream a motor" means? (I am unfamiliar with "scream" as a transitive verb, but regrettably I am painfully ignorant in much of the lingo around here.)
Click to expand...
Noooooooooooo lol @Hayabusawannabe definenitly not tryna hold it at 12k rpm forever my buddy i promise you lol
 
So the way it looks so far, i can keep stock throttle bodies, use 70 pound cam springs, not have to worry abt the bottom end but need to learn or let someone else degree the cams bc stock oem wont allow it to be properly done...then i can have my 12k rpm busa making power there reliably and smile the rest of my life lol

Doesnt sound tooo bad jus yet...until somebody throwz a monkey wrench in it lol oh i know its coming lol

Hope to see more info if possible...thanks
 
AsleepAtTheTree said:
So the way it looks so far, i can keep stock throttle bodies, use 70 pound cam springs, not have to worry abt the bottom end but need to learn or let someone else degree the cams bc stock oem wont allow it to be properly done...then i can have my 12k rpm busa making power there reliably and smile the rest of my life lol

Doesnt sound tooo bad jus yet...until somebody throwz a monkey wrench in it lol oh i know its coming lol

Hope to see more info if possible...thanks
Click to expand...
HI. It takes a combination to make power. It starts at the front of the ram air tuber, it ends at the end of your exhaust pipe. DME there busa motors rev to 13500 RPM. I am having C P Corrello make a set of rode for 1000 HP and 13500 RPM with over run to 14200 RPM. So it that what you mean by screaming a motor?
 
AsleepAtTheTree said:
No major reason why other than i jus wanna give it a shot for myself see how it turns out and something different than whats out local to me, most ppl here either 1397, 1441 and blowing down the house wit nitrous but i havent seen a screaming stock bore and bottom end gen1 or 2

Plus...after running with a few other guys out here, ive noticed that i run pretty close to newer 1k who are jus flashed/tuned and geared with abt a 200pnd weight difference and i know they can turn 12-13k easily so if i could juuuuuus nudge those little bit of rpm i can steal a few more mph and quicker times

The idea comes from me thinkin about a stock 1k only having 999cc or so but making the same power or better with the busa 299 more cc can make waaaaay more power at the same rpm if only the head and cams can be opened up

I know its "why bother" but im jus weird like that lol im hard headed and like doing poop the difficult different way...........JUS BC!!!
Click to expand...
Gotcha.
I guess if I had a pile of money sitting around waiting to be spent on difficult and different I'd consider it, but there are certainly cheaper ways to get where you wanna be.
Let us know how it goes...
 
michael parris heuberger said:
HI. It takes a combination to make power. It starts at the front of the ram air tuber, it ends at the end of your exhaust pipe. DME there busa motors rev to 13500 RPM. I am having C P Corrello make a set of rode for 1000 HP and 13500 RPM with over run to 14200 RPM. So it that what you mean by screaming a motor?
Click to expand...
My second trip to Maxton I datalogged airbox pressure
at about 80 MPH I got .73 PSI
At 180+ .97 PSI
airbox sealed to the ramair tubes screens removed but No air tube extender thingys
 
michael parris heuberger said:
HI. It takes a combination to make power. It starts at the front of the ram air tuber, it ends at the end of your exhaust pipe. DME there busa motors rev to 13500 RPM. I am having C P Corrello make a set of rode for 1000 HP and 13500 RPM with over run to 14200 RPM. So it that what you mean by screaming a motor?
Click to expand...
Oh thats screaming for sure, dont need 14k tho lol jus wanna see what a stock bore bottom end busa can do at 12k rpm compared to a stock bore 1k at similar rpms...
 
Mr Brown said:
Gotcha.
I guess if I had a pile of money sitting around waiting to be spent on difficult and different I'd consider it, but there are certainly cheaper ways to get where you wanna be.
Let us know how it goes...
Click to expand...
So do u think it should be considered that difficult Jeremy??? I mean if its jus pulling the heads and breaking it down and reassemble the proper way with proper parts i dont see it being that bad???

I watched a few videos of guys breaking a head down in no time, well, not including engine removal!

So u dont think it would make an interesting project to see what the ole busa can do at similar rpms as a 1k with the busa 299cc more of air capability???

I mean to say "lets get as much hp as we can" this wouldnt be the way to do it, but i guess its more curiosity to me than anything

I know a well tuned newer 1k with jus a flash n tune is capable of 190+hp id imagine i can see 200 plus hp with 299 more cc's with a little home done head work if i can pull it off
 
202mphbusa said:
My second trip to Maxton I datalogged airbox pressure
at about 80 MPH I got .73 PSI
At 180+ .97 PSI
airbox sealed to the ramair tubes screens removed but No air tube extender thingys
Click to expand...
Ive seen a few guys say air speed cant be tuned for on the dyno so why bother???

Im no expert by far but 97psi has to be accounted for somewhere i mean damn lol
 
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