Wiring Project

fallenarch

THE SLOW RIDER
Registered
I need to get power to my tank bag. I want to use the same basic systems for both of my bikes. Yes, this is pretty anal but it's a hobby as much as riding the bike.

Here's the deal. I have a Neutrino Black Box ( https://www.neutrinoblackbox.com/ ) in the BMW and soon in the Hayabusa (hayausa already is wired, but I plan a similar upgrade). I need power to the tank Bags of each bike for the radar, phone, SENA SM-10 Bluetooth unit, USB power (always end up charging my buddies phone for him or a GoPro). I also have a handy dandy LED emergency light I carry in the bag on charge. So I will have 6 conductors going to the tank bag. Since the Neutrino lets you reconfigure the power and control from your cell phone, I'll make all conductors 18# to handle 10A. Maybe not PC, but I need a lighter for my cigars too.

I need a waterproof way into the bag (I can DIY this, but was hoping for something very clean), was going to use mesh sleeve on the 6 conductors, and finally I need an automotive style waterproof plug to disconnect the Tank Bag to take it into a hotel or something. Been looking for a source of high quality plug options and other electronic parts.

Any ideas?
 
No need to. I am stripping a lot of electronics off the Busa, just the minimum. Taking off the cruise, heated gear, etc. Might do a light battery for weight reduction.
do ureself a favor arch.... I fought electrical battles u wouldn't believe... consider THIS battery... its got 720 cca AND 12.3 aH….. its the amp HOURS that make it special.... full spectrum p10s...…. this behemoth turbo bike sat for almost 2 weeks and fired instantly... i guess I don't even have to think about batteries anymore.... before this battery it was all I thought about.. and it had a spectrum p3 in it....... not enough (400 cca and 7.5 aH).. a lot of lightweight lithium batteries sacrifice CAPACITY (aH) for weights sake and it causes problems...…. some don't even list their capacity (aH)
 
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Dude, I have a stock displacement Busa with just a full exhaust. A Sear battery with a tender has lasted nearly 8 years without a failure. I would go lithium or something just for the weight.
the game might change at some point with allll these accessories..... knock on wood arch.
 
Shori for last 6 years no issue ever with lots of electrical stuff . That being said i have their big model in the bird . It is 315 CCA , and 21 AH weighs 2 lb 9 oz . I enlarged my my battery box down 1/4 " as it will fit stock bike but seat pan has to be trimmed . I did that on the stock seat , but not on my Russel day long saddle .
 
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This was my drag bike battery held in by velcro. It has rescued a FJR1300, goldwing both on long touring trips. I carry it on trips for back up. A battery like this will charge all your goodies a dozen times and never affect your bike. If you put it in the bag with its stand alone system. Videos of it starting full size trucks.
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that's what they say... but I had 390 cca and 7.5 aH(p3 spectrum) AND a stock Yuasa... would not start the bike for more than a week... me and another turbo owner had this problem.... with the extra draw it was a major issue... just sayin... aH and CCA are important... the stock yuasa wouldn't start it at all... but 21 aH is ALOT of capacity.. but comparatively not too many CCA... again, yes.... its a heavily modified bike with many electrical components,
 
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Arch, this is what I had planned to use for my tank bag. Two of them actually. One going in to some form of power distribution arrangement and the other out the back for my vest. I had one of these hermaphrodite SAE plugs running up the back of my tank for my electric vest/battery tender previously as they both use the same plug. Plans changed and I used one of these on my lawn tractor for battery tender and to power my 12v sprayer. Works perfect!
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do ureself a favor arch.... I fought electrical battles u wouldn't believe... consider THIS battery... its got 720 cca AND 12.3 aH….. its the amp HOURS that make it special.... full spectrum p10s...…. this behemoth turbo bike sat for almost 2 weeks and fired instantly... i guess I don't even have to think about batteries anymore.... before this battery it was all I thought about.. and it had a spectrum p3 in it....... not enough (400 cca and 7.5 aH).. a lot of lightweight lithium batteries sacrifice CAPACITY (aH) for weights sake and it causes problems...…. some don't even list their capacity (aH)

This is one problem with extreme mods to the bike - you create other problems and its a PIA process of tracking down all of the issues until you get things all worked out. I used to put the bike through some extreme conditions (rode 10 hours in a Northeaster, even ridden in a light snow), it's rock hard reliable. The stock charging system on the Busa is pretty robust. Basically the real power hogs are heated gear and lights, most other accessories draw less than 2 amps. I don't have heated grips or accessory lighting, so not an issue for now.

This is where a good power block helps. The problem with running out of power is not that there isn't enough, it's that it's not managed properly. Most power blocks can delay powering up accessories until the bike is started. BTW: if your HIDs are not on a delay they are probably stealing cranking amps from the battery too. You can also limit the amps something can draw. Another cool think with the higher end power blocks is you can manage power. If it's cold outside you can shut some things off and send more to heated gear for example, all from your cell phone! Finally, you can set the Neutrino Blackbox to monitor the battery and shut accessories off when the battery gets to a certain voltage, leaving enough to start the bike. That's great for campers and bike night show-offs!
 
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