Wideband install ECU

Deez ballz

Registered
Hi,
Iam looking to Install a AEM X SERIES wideband 02 sensor and need to hook it up to the ECU for the data log for the tuner.

Red power source = pin 17 with 5amp fuse inline.
Black ground wire = direct to battery.
White wire 0-5v input signal = pin 12 ECU.
Brown wire 0-5v negative signal = pin 29 ECU???

Does this look correct in terms of pin location?

Any tips would really help for install.

Thank you

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Some of the gen2 guys should be along in a while. I have a wideband but I’m gen1 and didn’t need to go through the ecu.
 
Be careful about where you put the sensor bung. The sensor won't fit if you weld the bung at the proper angle right in the collector pipe. The engine overhangs and is in the way. A narrow band probably would fit but not a WB. I plan to put my WB sensor for Bazzaz way downstream on the upward pipe before the muffler.
 
I believe I've read a couple times that it is the brown wire that has to go to pin 12 of the ecu...
 
Be careful about where you put the sensor bung. The sensor won't fit if you weld the bung at the proper angle right in the collector pipe. The engine overhangs and is in the way. A narrow band probably would fit but not a WB. I plan to put my WB sensor for Bazzaz way downstream on the upward pipe before the muffler.
The exhaust will be sticking out from the side of the fairing at the front. Will that work ?
 
The exhaust will be sticking out from the side of the fairing at the front. Will that work ?

That should be no problem as long as you test fit everything before you do anything permanent like welding a bung. Get the sensor and check it's placement with surrounding parts with the exhaust on the bike. People take a pipe out, have a bung welded and then find the sensor won't fit with surrounding parts when the pipe is put back in.

There is a minimum distance from the manifold you should place an O2 sensor or else it will burn up and need frequent replacement. Think the minimum was about 18" or something like that according to Dyno Jet. I have seen turbo setups where there was an O2 sensor on each header just an inch or so out of the motor. That must been very expensive initially and also probably required a lot of O2 sensors to be replaced. No question about tuning individual cylinders with that setups until a sensor burns out.

So you are going turbo then?
 
Sounds correct to me. Brown to pin 12 and I believe you can leave the white wire unhooked since the sensor will already have it's ground from the black wire and the ecu just needs the 0-5 volt reference.
The red and black is power and ground for the gauge. I don't think it will ground the sensor signal (I could be wrong). Does the ECU need a ground signal. White wire is positive 0-5v and brown is negative if I reverse it will the signal be wrong?
 
That should be no problem as long as you test fit everything before you do anything permanent like welding a bung. Get the sensor and check it's placement with surrounding parts with the exhaust on the bike. People take a pipe out, have a bung welded and then find the sensor won't fit with surrounding parts when the pipe is put back in.

There is a minimum distance from the manifold you should place an O2 sensor or else it will burn up and need frequent replacement. Think the minimum was about 18" or something like that according to Dyno Jet. I have seen turbo setups where there was an O2 sensor on each header just an inch or so out of the motor. That must been very expensive initially and also probably required a lot of O2 sensors to be replaced. No question about tuning individual cylinders with that setups until a sensor burns out.

So you are going turbo then?
Yes I'm going turbo. How long will the sensor last on a side exhaust ?
 
I really think you only need the brown wire hooked up.

@Boosted Cycle Perf would be the man to confirm this.

Also, check out where RCC places their O2 sensors on the dump pipe... It should be just fine a few inches after the turbine.

negitive. To get the correct reading you need to connect the sensor ground from the gauge into the negitive of the factory 02. If you do, you’ll get some called ground look cycling.

I’ve never had good luck with getting AEM gauges to read correctly in the ecu. The AEM sensor output scaling only goes to 4.5. But the ecu looks for a max of 5.0. So you have to do an average to get to 5.0. So it’s never very exact.

That’s why the ztronix wideband is the way to go because you can program the output signal scaling to fit the needs of the ecu.
 
negitive. To get the correct reading you need to connect the sensor ground from the gauge into the negitive of the factory 02. If you do, you’ll get some called ground look cycling.

I’ve never had good luck with getting AEM gauges to read correctly in the ecu. The AEM sensor output scaling only goes to 4.5. But the ecu looks for a max of 5.0. So you have to do an average to get to 5.0. So it’s never very exact.

That’s why the ztronix wideband is the way to go because you can program the output signal scaling to fit the needs of the ecu.
So is this correct boosted or it's crap.
1613564
 
Yes I'm going turbo. How long will the sensor last on a side exhaust ?

I have no experience with the O2 sensor quite that close to the engine but my PC5 O2 sensor has been right behind the collector for 10 years and it still tests just fine. With your O2 sensor installed as far as possible from the engine, I would think that would be 18" even with an exhaust existing the side fairing. I guess placement of the O2 sensor depends on whether or not you need to sample the exhaust before or after the turbine...if that matters. I've been told what really kills an O2 sensor is placing it so that condensation can collect on it. It should be at an angle where water can run off of the tip inside the pipe.
 
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