Why why why, this cant be right



AsleepAtTheTree

Registered
So i had to rebuild the clutch master and slave cylinders

Got that done, but i used TOO much grease and the slave cylinder(by the sprocket) was still leaking

Took me 5+ hrs to get any pressure before leakage

Now i know how to bleed brakes...
PUMP PUMP PUMP, open bleed, Close bleed, repeat

If this method works the same for the clutch...
WHY.........WHY...WHY...WHY is it taking forever and 3days for me to get any pressure???

Ive heard about the mighty vacbut im sure i dont need that to bleed the clutch, with the understanding that the system is completely drained because of the rebuild

But i have to be right about it should not be taking me hours upon hours....JUST TO GET ANY PRESSURE AT ALL....as of now its not leaking because i cleaned up all or most of the grease, but i cant seem to get any pressure, no matter what i do to make sure its not leaking again...

PLZ.....PLZ.....somebody help an ole feller

Thanks sincerely.....
 

Yellow09

Registered
Sounds pretty much what I've done in the past...

I have also reverse bled the system using a syringe full of DOT fluid and a tube put on the bleeder screw, open the bleeder screw and push the syringe. make sure you protect the area around the clutch MC (I use garbage bags to protect the top of the bike).
 

Sandow

Registered
Sounds pretty much what I've done in the past...

I have also reverse bled the system using a syringe full of DOT fluid and a tube put on the bleeder screw, open the bleeder screw and push the syringe. make sure you protect the area around the clutch MC (I use garbage bags to protect the top of the bike).
You could have told me that last weekend as I was re installing my new brake pads...:banghead:
That would have helped me so much lol
It took me 30 minutes of pumping and filling the master cylinder up until I had some break pressure....(was my first time re-filling the brakes rather than just bleeding only)!
 

AsleepAtTheTree

Registered
Sounds pretty much what I've done in the past...

I have also reverse bled the system using a syringe full of DOT fluid and a tube put on the bleeder screw, open the bleeder screw and push the syringe. make sure you protect the area around the clutch MC (I use garbage bags to protect the top of the bike).
Where did u get a syringe that worked for you???
Id imagine it had to be huge

Think ive heard of that before? Did u use a rubber hose to connect the syringe to the bleed nipple?

Thanks for the help...
 

Sandow

Registered
Where did u get a syringe that worked for you???
Id imagine it had to be huge

Think ive heard of that before? Did u use a rubber hose to connect the syringe to the bleed nipple?

Thanks for the help...
Yours sounds more like a master cylinder issue. My friend @SSGT_B recently had a similar issue I believe. Maybe someone could chime in who knows about it.... @c10 ...?
 

SSGT_B

Registered
Where did u get a syringe that worked for you???
Id imagine it had to be huge

Think ive heard of that before? Did u use a rubber hose to connect the syringe to the bleed nipple?

Thanks for the help...
I got a 100cc syringe off amazon for like 5 bucks. For doing my clutch I removed fluid from resovior, refilled with clean fluid, then used a mightyvac until I saw the clean fluid. I did rebuild my brake mc and had that issue. Ordered a new mc to fix that problem. I would pull the lever half way back and secure it. Gravity bleed the system till you have fluid. Then open bleeder, pull lever back and do not release untill bleeder is closed. Repeat process.
 

Berlin Germany

Registered
probs with clutch pump (and or his slave?)

if bleeding as usual doesn´t work, try my way "downside up"
"do the bleeding the other way around - means downside up
by bleeding the clutch-slave at first
- by opening the upper reservoir and empty it + get rid of the black mud
- get the DOT-bottle reachable !
- unscrew hose and banjo bolt at slave
- unscrew the slave itself (only by puting off the entire front sprocket cover)
- release slowly slave´s piston as far out it wants to go / the spring behind moves him but piston can´t fall out
- keep the slave´s inner thread vertikal up and fill carefully the slave by a syringe till there is no more air inside / perhaps the DOT flows over a very little bit - wipe that away
- mount now again hose and tighten its banjo bolt as tight as possible in your hand (pay big attention to hose´s later correct position)
- now push / press slowly the piston back into slave what makes the DOT "climb" the way up to handpump and - yeah - bleeding same time the hose and filling the upper reservoir a little bit - attention - if you press the piston to hard you will have a fountain upside and the DOT all over the bike
- keep the cylinder tight inside slave and fill up with your other hand (DOT-bottle is, i hope, easily reachable / very near by) the upper reservoir up to its inner mark
- release then the slave´s piston slowly and watch by that the level up in the reservoir & refill a bit again till mark
- mount slave (sprocket cover - its 6 mm screws get 10 Nm) and tighten now the banjo bolt with 22 Nm
- mount reservoir´s lid/cap (screws only 3 Nm) and you´re finished with clutch bleeding
"


_________________________________________________________________________

and if you have installed a - not at first bleeded - radial pump, you will pump your hand(s) sore.
 

AsleepAtTheTree

Registered
probs with clutch pump (and or his slave?)

if bleeding as usual doesn´t work, try my way "downside up"
"do the bleeding the other way around - means downside up
by bleeding the clutch-slave at first
- by opening the upper reservoir and empty it + get rid of the black mud
- get the DOT-bottle reachable !
- unscrew hose and banjo bolt at slave
- unscrew the slave itself (only by puting off the entire front sprocket cover)
- release slowly slave´s piston as far out it wants to go / the spring behind moves him but piston can´t fall out
- keep the slave´s inner thread vertikal up and fill carefully the slave by a syringe till there is no more air inside / perhaps the DOT flows over a very little bit - wipe that away
- mount now again hose and tighten its banjo bolt as tight as possible in your hand (pay big attention to hose´s later correct position)
- now push / press slowly the piston back into slave what makes the DOT "climb" the way up to handpump and - yeah - bleeding same time the hose and filling the upper reservoir a little bit - attention - if you press the piston to hard you will have a fountain upside and the DOT all over the bike
- keep the cylinder tight inside slave and fill up with your other hand (DOT-bottle is, i hope, easily reachable / very near by) the upper reservoir up to its inner mark
- release then the slave´s piston slowly and watch by that the level up in the reservoir & refill a bit again till mark
- mount slave (sprocket cover - its 6 mm screws get 10 Nm) and tighten now the banjo bolt with 22 Nm
- mount reservoir´s lid/cap (screws only 3 Nm) and you´re finished with clutch bleeding
"


_________________________________________________________________________

and if you have installed a - not at first bleeded - radial pump, you will pump your hand(s) sore.
I must say, that sounds like it should work great if done right

Actually i tried a similar way the first time, but it was easier to move the piston because i had grease everywhere...tried this second time because i new it might work again, but i cleaned and dried the housing so well the piston and seal is like a suction cup now in the housing lol....and my push rod comes out easily to so not sure how i can pull the piston out properly without damage....

I would LOVE to do it this way tho because that seems to be the solution to my problem i think, having to fill up the slave takes forever to hand pump full again

Same way as mentioned above with the syringe

Gonna give both a try my next off day
 

Yellow09

Registered
I got a 100cc syringe off amazon for like 5 bucks. For doing my clutch I removed fluid from resovior, refilled with clean fluid, then used a mightyvac until I saw the clean fluid. I did rebuild my brake mc and had that issue. Ordered a new mc to fix that problem. I would pull the lever half way back and secure it. Gravity bleed the system till you have fluid. Then open bleeder, pull lever back and do not release untill bleeder is closed. Repeat process.
Where did u get a syringe that worked for you???
Id imagine it had to be huge

Think ive heard of that before? Did u use a rubber hose to connect the syringe to the bleed nipple?

Thanks for the help...
I got the syringe (100ml) on line and some tubing from our local automotive store (I took the syringe with me for sizing.

I did indeed use the rubber line to attach to the bleeder, it made bleeding much simpler and eliminated the dreaded air in the slave.
 

AsleepAtTheTree

Registered
Vacuum pump works the best when bleeding a clutch. That’s the only way to do it without wasting time.
So youre saying dont even try the reverse bleed with syringe or pulling the piston???

Jus go straight for the pump huh?

Ive heard those mighty vac things can be a pain in the ass to, especially the ones from harber freight
 

Berlin Germany

Registered
Vacuum pump works the best when bleeding a clutch. That’s the only way to do it without wasting time.
yes this tool is a very big help

especially if it's this one here
operating with compressed air
(my compressor has 10 bar and 280 liter volume)
Hazet%204969-1_3.gif

Hazet article number : 4969-1/3 (pneumatic brake fluid bleeder set)

combined with teflon band like this - 3 layers onto all outer threads of all bleeders.
teflonband_2.jpg


but even with that I have had problems (only 2 or 3 times, but i had).

why?
really no clue / idea.

but then i applied my "downside - up" method and everything went fine.
 


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