Why is the timing being so difficult~?~

On the sprockets now, set #1 to the cam cover-to-head-line. This should be the exhaust side cam with the horizontal line > Lined horizontal to the head's top line guide.

Roll the intake cam to that 15th pin and lay it in the cam tower channels. Hand tighten the cam tower caps down onto the cams.

Push a non-damaging plunger into the cam chain tensioner hole, and force it onto the cam chain.

Roll the crank back about 15° or say a 1/2 an inch back with the wrench on the crank. Never back off of the cam chain when rolling back...

... Or rolling forward. Now, move forward to the, 'crank to static timing mark.' Slowly lift off the tension of the chain. A valve spring wants to close a valve, so watch one of the cams move so you have a sense of positioning once you get your visual, looking at the horizon guide line at the top of the head cover line.

Look at the inner cams or the horizontal plain where you see the numbers 2 and 3 are aimed down by one tooth [above each number].

If you do not get the slack out of the intake, you might see #1 line up to the horizontal-head-line, but the intake lagged from the extra chain slack not taken up by the tensioner/hand held plunger.

Said another way, number 1 should line up at the horizontal, the inner 2 and 3 numbers should be sunk down by one tooth at the horizon; you take the slack up on the cam chain once you start rolling all 3 guys with the crank turned either way. :whistle: :thumbsup:
 
You did tighten the tensioner all the way in before you installed it and let it take up slack already right? Just thinking out loud here......

We are just pushing out the slack through the tensioner hole...the manual shows the tensioner going in after the cams are installed.

You put it in first?
 
What do you think is doing the ticking, or is the noise ticking? With stock lift/duration, even off a whole tooth shouldn't cause valve to piston interferance. A very slight touch won't cause any resistance if you are turning it over by hand.
Did any material come off the head. Was it decked? That would cause 1/2 tooth problem.
I would measure centers with a degree wheel first to find out whats going on.
 
We are just pushing out the slack through the tensioner hole...the manual shows the tensioner going in after the cams are installed.

You put it in first?
I followed the manual, but make sure the slack is where the tensioner can pull it, not across the top or on the opposite side from the tensioner.
 
I followed the manual, but make sure the slack is where the tensioner can pull it, not across the top or on the opposite side from the tensioner.

That's the funny part...all the slack is on the tensioner side and the exhaust side is completely snug and still 1/2 tooth off...

I think my bike does not want to run Maxton this weekend~!~ :banghead:
 
That's the funny part...all the slack is on the tensioner side and the exhaust side is completely snug and still 1/2 tooth off...

I think my bike does not want to run Maxton this weekend~!~ :banghead:
Evidently not! Maybe your rivals have sabotaged ya.....
It's gonna be off a little, as long as you don't have clearance issues I'd say you're as close as you are gonna get without sprockets.
 
I'm going to run down to the shop in a few minutes and let them take a peek at it, they are nice enough to squeeze me into their busy schedule today and set it for me...we'll see what happens...

Taking the adjustable sprockets too in case they are needed.
 
I'm going to run down to the shop in a few minutes and let them take a peek at it, they are nice enough to squeeze me into their busy schedule today and set it for me...we'll see what happens...

Taking the adjustable sprockets too in case they are needed.
Let us know what transpires please.....
 
Let us know what transpires please.....

I had heard last night that some gaskets solved the noise issue. :laugh::thumbsup:

Should I even post this~?~ :banghead: Embarrassing~!~

Took it to the shop yesterday and they went completely through it and retimed it (by this time I had the cams out again)

Anyway, they could not start it because of a sensor issue...

Got home and hooked everything back up (sensor and all) and the noise was still there...tracked it down to failing to put in the header gasket :whistle:

I know the exhaust sounds different than the valves do, but hearing this clacking noise when I first started it up the first time was enough for a quick shut down and the first thing I thought of was the valves hitting, better be safe than sorry~!~

Turns out we had it timed right to begin with :lol:
 
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Thanks to you all for the information provided, my friends for coming over every night to help get this ready, and my local shop for the support and for squeezing me in yesterday for 2 hours even though they are booked up for 2 weeks~!~ :thumbsup:
 
I feel for you. Anytime you rip into an engine and fire it up the first few times every and any sounds seem to be the result of some sorta problem. I still second guess myself on lots of things.Sometimes for good reasons. :thumbsup:
 
It's better to second guess yourself and check twice or three times than to just say F'it and hurry to finish... :thumbsup:

Glad you got her solved and ready... :beerchug:




I think you are going to wish you changed the cams with the head work... :whistle:
 
On the sprockets now, set #1 to the cam cover-to-head-line. This should be the exhaust side cam with the horizontal line > Lined horizontal to the head's top line guide.

Roll the intake cam to that 15th pin and lay it in the cam tower channels. Hand tighten the cam tower caps down onto the cams.

Push a non-damaging plunger into the cam chain tensioner hole, and force it onto the cam chain.

Roll the crank back about 15° or say a 1/2 an inch back with the wrench on the crank. Never back off of the cam chain when rolling back...

... Or rolling forward. Now, move forward to the, 'crank to static timing mark.' Slowly lift off the tension of the chain. A valve spring wants to close a valve, so watch one of the cams move so you have a sense of positioning once you get your visual, looking at the horizon guide line at the top of the head cover line.

Look at the inner cams or the horizontal plain where you see the numbers 2 and 3 are aimed down by one tooth [above each number].

If you do not get the slack out of the intake, you might see #1 line up to the horizontal-head-line, but the intake lagged from the extra chain slack not taken up by the tensioner/hand held plunger.

Said another way, number 1 should line up at the horizontal, the inner 2 and 3 numbers should be sunk down by one tooth at the horizon; you take the slack up on the cam chain once you start rolling all 3 guys with the crank turned either way. :whistle: :thumbsup:


Is it just me or is this the 1st time I can understand what he just said...kinda ?
 
Should I even post this~?~ :banghead: Embarrassing~!~

Took it to the shop yesterday and they went completely through it and retimed it (by this time I had the cams out again)

Anyway, they could not start it because of a sensor issue...

Got home and hooked everything back up (sensor and all) and the noise was still there...tracked it down to failing to put in the header gasket :whistle:

I know the exhaust sounds different than the valves do, but hearing this clacking noise when I first started it up the first time was enough for a quick shut down and the first thing I thought of was the valves hitting, better be safe than sorry~!~

Turns out we had it timed right to begin with :lol:
There is no reason to feel bad about having a little slip of the mind. I think that we all have done it at least once or twice!
 
Should I even post this~?~ :banghead: Embarrassing~!~

Took it to the shop yesterday and they went completely through it and retimed it (by this time I had the cams out again)

Anyway, they could not start it because of a sensor issue...

Got home and hooked everything back up (sensor and all) and the noise was still there...tracked it down to failing to put in the header gasket :whistle:

I know the exhaust sounds different than the valves do, but hearing this clacking noise when I first started it up the first time was enough for a quick shut down and the first thing I thought of was the valves hitting, better be safe than sorry~!~

Turns out we had it timed right to begin with :lol:

No need to be embarrassed, these things happen.....
Glad you got it sorted, hope you do well at Maxton!
 
Everybody who has turned wrenches for any length of time probably has a similar story to yours.

Glad you got it worked out and will get to ride.
 
In one of your first posts about this you stated you had the slack on the exhaust side, there is one of the problems to start with!

When you install the exhaust cam the slack should be in the middle!
 
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