which non o-ring chain do you recommend ?

displayimage.php


plus this:

displayimage.php


SuperSprox :cheerleader:
 
I dont recommend anything that isnt an x-ring or o-ring chain for any purpose....unless you keep a can of lube in your pocket at all times, if it is for drag only..I could see the wieght savings, but I dont think it will improve your E.T. as its miniscuel at best
 
NONE....

unless you plan on spending time after each and every ride to clean and lube the thing, and still end up with a lot shorter chain life...

Why or better who thinks you need a "non" o-ring chain? get more benefit out of skipping a cheeseburger every week...

A pro-stock head up racing only bike is about the only place I can think that the .0002 quicker ET in the quarter mile might be worth all the trouble.. may as well get $500 worth of ceramic bearings too (run them with light machine oil only).. I bet they net you more ET too...
 
Last edited:
Call Daniel @ Cloud 9 Motorsports (Goldenchild on org), he is an absolute chain expert.
Raydog
 
I remember ditching the O ring back in the eighties on my GS750E, and never looked back. My 02 Busa O ring lasted 10,000mi. Brock told me they use EK DR2 non O ring. Gain HP save money $ 95.00 from Brock. Put it on Busa after 10,000 mi. only half stretched. I'll never look back.

IUOE37
 
I remember ditching the O ring back in the eighties on my GS750E, and never looked back. My 02 Busa O ring lasted 10,000mi. Brock told me they use EK DR2 non O ring. Gain HP save money $ 95.00 from Brock. Put it on Busa after 10,000 mi. only half stretched. I'll never look back.

IUOE37

Does "never look back" mean you are unwilling to re-evaluate an item (o ring chain)after almost 2 decades of chain evolution/improvement? The O ring material is vastly improved, there are more choices today, O ring designed chain lube is here.
If you lube then run a non o ring chain for 250-300 miles @ 90 mph, then examine it with a magnifier, you will observe dry metal with clearly observable signs of wear. Conversely, if you examine an o ring chain the same way, it will only be road dirty and want more lube. I don't understand why one would be so anti o ring! BTW, over the life of a motorcycle, you will replace an o ring chain far less....thereby negating the lower price of a non o ring.
Raydog

P1010338.JPG
 
My '03 has 59,000 miles on it and I've used 5 different chains of all different types, X-Ring, O-Ring, Z-Ring, stock chain, high tensile strength, stock tensile strength. I've used a wide assortment of chain lubes out there except WD-40 but including Chain Wax and Silicon spray.

NOTHING has caused me to get more than 11,000 miles out of a chain. The only thing I've kept consistent is the maintenance which includes cleaning the chain every 600 miles and keeping the tension adjusted right.

11,000 miles.

Save your money and get a reasonable O-ring 530 chain.

To qualify, I don't race and don't spend any time on the track to speak of.

Things that affect chain wear:

Maintenance. I know this not from experience but from stories told by others. Keep it clean. Lube. Keep it lubed. Adjustment. Keep it adjusted. Especially don't over tighten the chain.

Your weight: Heavier guys get less chain life. I get 11,000 miles on a chain. CharlesBusa gets double or more. I outweigh him by at least 120 pounds.

Riding habits: If you're smooth on and off the throttle, you'll get more life. If you're choppy on and off the throttle and create excessive chain lash, it will cause the chain to wear faster.

Anyhoo, just some thoughts.

--Wag--
 
Last edited:
The RK that was on my Busa was the latest in tech. After 10,000 mi. completely stretched and kinked up. After 10,000 the EK is still fine. I don't know what you don't understand about that. Simple comparison between two chains. I lube with Silkolene pro chain, every 300 to 400 mi.
 
I have the EK ZZZ, and use 3M telfon chain wax. I get it from Lowes.:thumbsup:
 
Back
Top