Whats required to build a 1441 gen 1

Skywalker86

Registered
Hey Fam my gen 1 broke a rod and i need a new block.. i want to build a 1441 and just looking at suggestions to build something reliable for specifically street purpose.. i want something with balls when needed for those 1 off moments i wanna leave someone behind.. nothing too over the top mods my bike previously had..

Ballistic clutch h/d
clutch basket welded
emission valves removed, head plated
inlet cam change
adjustable cam sprokets
new cam chain
manual cam chain adjuster
thin head gasket (high comp)
head cleaned up (high port and polis)
k&n airfilter
front and rear sprockets changed
drive chain changed
12.3:1 high comp pistons
power commander usb3
engine delay shifter (not connected)
yoshimura stage 3 full system

Thanks your advice will be appreciated
 
You’ll need 84mm pistons and block
Head studs
Gasket set
Gen 2 crank

Probably want to do a two fan setup or a gen 2 radiator. Probably either a 24volt starter setup or a 720cca battery from Powerhouse. Maybe some bigger cams.

Parts will be in the area of a couple thousand. Figure about $1000 for pistons and block, gen 2 crank anywhere from $650-1000, studs around $150, gaskets around $100, plus plan on lots of miscellaneous stuff. Oh and a tune.
 
You’ll need 84mm pistons and block
Head studs
Gasket set
Gen 2 crank

Probably want to do a two fan setup or a gen 2 radiator. Probably either a 24volt starter setup or a 720cca battery from Powerhouse. Maybe some bigger cams.

Parts will be in the area of a couple thousand. Figure about $1000 for pistons and block, gen 2 crank anywhere from $650-1000, studs around $150, gaskets around $100, plus plan on lots of miscellaneous stuff.
Thanks for your reply, do i also need a spacer for the crank and if so where can i get 1..?
 
You’ll need 84mm pistons and block
Head studs
Gasket set
Gen 2 crank

Probably want to do a two fan setup or a gen 2 radiator. Probably either a 24volt starter setup or a 720cca battery from Powerhouse. Maybe some bigger cams.

Parts will be in the area of a couple thousand. Figure about $1000 for pistons and block, gen 2 crank anywhere from $650-1000, studs around $150, gaskets around $100, plus plan on lots of miscellaneous stuff. Oh and a tune.
You left out the spacer,, 1mm
 
In all honesty... if ure gonna build a 1441 or any motor... SERIOUSLY consider using Powerhouse, or someone who has great experience... and can also tune it....the money youll spend in labor will be a drop in the bucket in the grand scheme of things.... shop around ALOT for someone reputable....
Appreciate the advice but unfortunately im in Australia so finding some one experienced is proving a little difficult
 
Do i not need a spacer if i use gen 2 rods and pistons???
Gen2 has 2mm more stroke so the piston pins are 2mm smaller and relocated so as to keep the same height as Gen1. For high hp built engines the aftermarket Gen1 rod is preferred because of the larger pin but my Gen2 1441 uses Gen1 block, stock rods and Gen2 aftermarket Gen2 pistons with no spacer. If you have ready access to the Gen2 rods and pistons it is an option. I believe stock Gen2 rods are better than stock Gen1 rods so if you are doing this on a budget it is worth thinking about.
 
Gen2 has 2mm more stroke so the piston pins are 2mm smaller and relocated so as to keep the same height as Gen1. For high hp built engines the aftermarket Gen1 rod is preferred because of the larger pin but my Gen2 1441 uses Gen1 block, stock rods and Gen2 aftermarket Gen2 pistons with no spacer. If you have ready access to the Gen2 rods and pistons it is an option. I believe stock Gen2 rods are better than stock Gen1 rods so if you are doing this on a budget it is worth thinking about.
So the stock rods you used are the gen 2 rods..? Thanks for the info.. really appreciate it
 
since you are buying new in the box parts you should consider reliability as an issue. to that end think about balancing the crank and chamfering the oil holes. Blue printing the rotating assembly gives you a smoother motor quicker spin up and less stress on the rotating parts. Plus marginally more HP due to less effort waisted in friction When they are out of the the box all fresh and clean it is not too expensive
 
since you are buying new in the box parts you should consider reliability as an issue. to that end think about balancing the crank and chamfering the oil holes. Blue printing the rotating assembly gives you a smoother motor quicker spin up and less stress on the rotating parts. Plus marginally more HP due to less effort waisted in friction When they are out of the the box all fresh and clean it is not too expensive
HI. And with the right parts you can spin the motor to 13500RPM
 
Easy, get a Gen2 bottom end and use a bigbore Gen1 topend.
 
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