what mods does the motor need to add nitrous??

rockethead

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I have an '01 busa with 5K miles on it. ( the guy i bought it from rode seldomly) anyway, I want to add a nitrous setup to my ride, do I need any special engine mods to accomodate the nitrous?? like different seals or stronger internals.. any help would be great! :1zhelp:
 
my 01

29654_116880898355353_100001003313267_98193_1536180_n.jpg
 
Not unless your going for a heavy hit.
I've ran +50 and even a +60hp on stock bikes and never had a drama.

I've had clutch's slip if it not a progressive hit (mine aren't) but good
plates and heavier springs normaly fix this.

Wet or Dry ?
The dry kits seem popular in the US but i've only ever used wet.

Do some home work. The idea is quite simple and do-able at home
but there are lots of little things that can help.

# I dont like the cheap plastic lines that come with some kits.
The cold gas makes them brittle with use.

# If your serious about street use you'll want a 2 or 2.5lb bottle.

# I use a flat-plate style kitchen scales to weigh the bottle to guage contents.
Good at the strip or when getting refill's.

# I find the battery box is often a good place to mount solenoids, pumps, filters etc
if you get stuck for space (although the Busa's not too bad)
Pretty easy to extend battery leads and stick it in the tail.

# Be fussy about the angle of the bottle. Many are mounted wrong just to look better.

Be warned, its very addictive....:laugh:
 
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I will look into this more.
Thanks for the info
What is the best way to mount the bottle?

Would a 2.5lb bottle fit under the hump? Not in the hump but where the tool kit sits.:goodidea:
 
Dont think the 2.5 fits under the hump.
There was a US mounting kit I saw a while back to put a bottle under the busa hump.
I think it was a 2lb ? I should look it up. Cop's here dont like the gas on the street.

Bottle mounts depend on if it has an interal tube or not.
The pick up point, either the bottom of the tube or neck of the bottle should be at the
lowest point and at the BACK. many lean their bottle back to suit the lines of the bike
when the should be leaning forward. Try and picture the liquid in the bottom of the bottle,
you want it to fall towards the exit under accelleration, not climb the bottle away from it.
Im sure others will argue it makes little difference, but im a but fussy on these things.

I use the original NOS system for arming. A toggle switch that turns the horn button
into the "fire" button, and a microswitch on the carbs / throttle body's that only makes
it live at full throttle. You end up with a system that "hits" when you push the horn button
but ONLY at full throttle. You might find its a bit much in the lower gears.....:laugh:
 
There was a US mounting kit I saw a while back to put a bottle under the busa hump.
I think it was a 2lb ? I should look it up. :

Check with Guy at Tiger Racing. He sells some kits that may help you out.

Here's a pic for a Gen II

hump nos 1.jpg


hump nos 2.jpg
 
I do like the 2.5lb bottles but they are pretty hard to hide.
I'd probably go with a 2lb one next myself.

This was when the original Bandit 12 was first released.
NOS wet 60 kit with 2.5lb bottle, GSXR cam's, carb's and pipe = 168hp and the wheel.
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I shaved down a piece of wood to fit inside the inlet rubbers.
It supported them whilst I drilled undersize holes for the foggers.
I just threaded mine into the rubbers. B12's are quite thick.
Not ideal but worked fine for a few years.

Lots of other options. Spacers with purpose made holes,
drilling the head, spraying into the airbox etc etc.
 
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Just what I was advised and how i've always done it.
I work on the theory if im not on full open throttle why would I need extra ?
Also add's in a little extra safety. With my way even if the horn button didnt
release or shorted out it would still shut down when the throttle was backed off.
 
Hitting the motor with extra fuel but no nitrous is pretty safe. Just run's VERY rich.
Its how i've tested them in the past. Set everything up to go but run it with the bottle
shut off. Should just choke the motor.

Extra Nitrous without the fuel is NOT good. Motors not going to like it at all !!!
I was looking into running a preasure type switch that would only fire the nitrous
solenoid if it was made active from fuel preasure. Not sure how feasible this would
be or if it has already been done ?
 
Dont think the 2.5 fits under the hump.
There was a US mounting kit I saw a while back to put a bottle under the busa hump.
I think it was a 2lb ? I should look it up. Cop's here dont like the gas on the street.

Bottle mounts depend on if it has an interal tube or not.
The pick up point, either the bottom of the tube or neck of the bottle should be at the
lowest point and at the BACK. many lean their bottle back to suit the lines of the bike
when the should be leaning forward. Try and picture the liquid in the bottom of the bottle,
you want it to fall towards the exit under accelleration, not climb the bottle away from it.
Im sure others will argue it makes little difference, but im a but fussy on these things.

I use the original NOS system for arming. A toggle switch that turns the horn button
into the "fire" button, and a microswitch on the carbs / throttle body's that only makes
it live at full throttle. You end up with a system that "hits" when you push the horn button
but ONLY at full throttle. You might find its a bit much in the lower gears.....:laugh:

2.5 fits fine under hump:thumbsup:
 
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