Just spent $350 at the dealer for new wheel bearings, cush drive, Vortex black Cat5 43t rear sprocket, 17t front sprocket, and D.I.D. 530ZVM2 gold chain. Now I have to wait three weeks, dammit!!
Okay, my brain did a meltdown chewing on this, so I gave up and decided SOMEBODY here must know a definitive answer-
With a 17/43 gearing obviously you are using a longer lever to do work i.e. turn a drum of a known mass, so it is easier to turn said drum on the dyno. This will show as more torque output, which goes into the equation to determine horsepower thus: HP=(torque x rpm)/5252
THEREFORE, with gearing providing more leverage the dyno will (falsely) give a higher HP output, even though in fact the engine is no more powerful than before.
SO, how do you adjust for this on the dyno to get a true reading? Run in 5th gear instead of 4th to reduce the multiplier? Some genius in the group got a calculator to determine the final drive ratio with 17/43 and 190/55 tire vs. stock?
P.S.- How much did I possibly decrease my indicated HP on the dyno by changing to a 190/55 tire?
P.P.S.- My brain hurts...
Okay, my brain did a meltdown chewing on this, so I gave up and decided SOMEBODY here must know a definitive answer-
With a 17/43 gearing obviously you are using a longer lever to do work i.e. turn a drum of a known mass, so it is easier to turn said drum on the dyno. This will show as more torque output, which goes into the equation to determine horsepower thus: HP=(torque x rpm)/5252
THEREFORE, with gearing providing more leverage the dyno will (falsely) give a higher HP output, even though in fact the engine is no more powerful than before.
SO, how do you adjust for this on the dyno to get a true reading? Run in 5th gear instead of 4th to reduce the multiplier? Some genius in the group got a calculator to determine the final drive ratio with 17/43 and 190/55 tire vs. stock?
P.S.- How much did I possibly decrease my indicated HP on the dyno by changing to a 190/55 tire?
P.P.S.- My brain hurts...