What Do I Need to Swap Exhaust

SpeedFiend

Registered
Well, I have my new-to-me Yoshi exhaust sitting here (big thanks to Kildore :thumbsup:), and I was about to tear into the bike, but remembered I don't have PAIR blockoffs or anti-seize. Any other parts I'm missing? Also, do you need anything more than basic tools to do the swap? Unfortunately, my big tool box is in Az, so I'm left with a 122 piece socket set.
 
Someone please elaboratly comment (preferably with pics) cause I need this info too!
 
You don't need anything fancy, just some basic sockets, flat blade screwdriver, allen wrenches, etc. The PAIR blockoffs are not absolutely necessary unless you are dead set on removing the system parts from your bike. You can just block the line off with a marble or similar item.

Using a torque wrench is always a good idea, but you shouldn't really need it for anything other than the header bolts. Depending on the wrench and attachments you use, you may be forced to completely remove the radiator in order to have enough clearance to reach the bolts on the header flange.

Sometimes you can get away with just removing the top radiator mounting bolts and leaning it against the fender, but just taking it out would make the header removal/installation a lot easier.

I would use new header gaskets. You don't want to get the whole thing together only to take it apart again if you find an exhaust leak.
 
If your new system uses springs at the joints, a spring pulling tool comes in handy...

spring-puller.jpg
 
Oh, and don't forget to plug in the cooling fans before you run the engine. :whistle:
 
Protect the radiator. Either drain and remove it or put some kind of cardboard or magazine on it. Pretty straight forward install.
 
Can anyone give more info on the PAIR block offs? Maybe some pics of what I'm looking for? I've googled it but come up short.
 
Clicky McClickerson is pretty funny. We use that kinda phrasing here all the time.... Except, we don't use Click, instead we improvise with derogatory words :laugh:
 
Clicky McClickerson is pretty funny. We use that kinda phrasing here all the time.... Except, we don't use Click, instead we improvise with derogatory words :laugh:

Haha, this is a family friendly environment. :laugh:
 
Also try not to tighten everything up until you have the whole exhaust in place. Not sure on Yoshi fit,but some exhaust come pretty close to the faring. Snug it up and then when you sure it's all in right place... tighten.

Also make sure you plug the hole to the air box when you remove the PAIR system.

Like stated, cardboard to protect the radiator.

Not a hard job to do. just take her slow.
 
Not sure on Yoshi fit,but some exhaust come pretty close to the faring.

My Ti-Force system just barely touched the lower fairing on one side. I noticed it when I found a small bit of black plastic dripping from the bottom of my bike! It caused no visible effects on the outside. Ti-Force uses very large tubing, so I don't know about yours. I just put a small strip of thermal tape on the inside of the fairing and never had another issue with it.
 
If anyone has any pics of the thru 07 pair valves and the removal I'll be very greatful!!! :bowdown:
 
According to this highly educational video, it looks like the PAIR plates are on top of the engine instead of up under the exhaust ports like my Gen 1. Seems like I could do the exhaust, and wait for the plates to get in without losing any work?

2 busa - smog plates by 4acp racing - Pair Mod Install‬‏ - YouTube[/url]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
According to this highly educational video, it looks like the PAIR plates are on top of the engine instead of up under the exhaust ports like my Gen 1. Seems like I could do the exhaust, and wait for the plates to get in without losing any work?

2 busa - smog plates by 4acp racing - Pair Mod Install‬‏ - YouTube[/url]

Yep, lift tank, remove airbox to install the block offs. For the header, remove both side fairings, remove radiator and oil cooler bolts and swing them forward to give you some room. 8 allen head bolts (2 per each of the 4 primary tubes), and 2 bracket bolts. 1 bolt per footpeg/muffler hanger, 1 bolt on each midpipe to loosen where it meets the header. Done. Very simple and straight forward.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top