Was about to pull trigger on the RCC stage 1, but now...

Dr. Gonzo said:
Well, the deed is done and for better or worse I'm now a turbo busa owner. As recommended, I opted to trailer it home. First call when I got back was to the nearest dyno to line up a baseline run and see if it's even remotely safe to get into boost. Hopefully I can get in early next week. Going to be hard to stay off it till then. In the mean time I need to undo or at least downplay some of the strip mods so it's at least somewhat 'streetable'. Right now it's slammed so much it almost is on the ground when I plop my big a$$ on it. :laugh: Thanks for all the insights and I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way.

The fun begins!
Gonz
Click to expand...

First thing you should do is a comp. test on all cyl. Trust me i had a 16g that i use to take the track only there's something going on in the motor! !4 lbs of boost on a stock motor? Was he using c16 gas or 93? Get it to Frank fast! Or take the motor yourself! get a shop manual and open up that motor! Start looking for a stock block! Cause thats the first thing thats gets it!:thumbsup:
 
Cyl 1 & 2 were about 11.5 psi and 3 & 4 were about 12 on my gauge. I haven't checked against my mostly stock 2007, but those don't sound too bad, right?

Thx,
G
 
LOL... Guess I'm a little green with some of this. The gauge has an inner reading of 0 to 20 (which I posted) and an outer from 0 to 300 (which it sounds like I should have). I was giving the KPH when I meant to be giving MPH. :)

Anyway, my revised numbers are just under 170 on cyl 1 and 2 and about 180 on 3 and 4. I read something somewhere that said as long as you're within 10% variance you're in good shape. I'm at about 5% so looks like things should be good so far?

G

Also, to smv, the guy I got it from told me he ran race gas to the track. It's got 93 in it right now and I'm a little concerned with getting a baseline dyno run on that. Have to either find someone around here who sells racing gas or add some octane boost for at least a little extra protection.
 
Is there an easy way I can tell if there's a spacer short of calling the guy and asking? Before I bought I asked about the clutch and he said he did put in 60lb springs and a clutch basket. The guy is an auto mechanic so it's entirely possible.

Thx
G
 
Spacer is easily visible at the bottom of the cylinders , usually .080 thick, will look like an additional layer between the cyl and cases , maybe signs of the sealant used too,
 
Sounds like I'm pulling the farings off tonight when I get home :)

BTW, anyone know why someone would put the cooling fan on a manual switch rather than letting the therm kick it in when needed? The tether has a switch on it so that's how it's currently setup. Guessing it's some track thing, but kind of sucks for street driving. One of these days I'm going to forget to turn it on and overheat the thing. Unless there's some compelling reason to leave it I think I'm going to go back to stock on that one. Thinking of decreasing the 8" stretch too. I'll probably get to the track a few times here and there and maybe try for a top speed run in Ohio next summer, but for street driving it's not so good. The guy I got it from gave me the stock parts so could go back to those, but not sure how streetable it will be with stock wheelbase and a turbo. Decisions, decisions...

Later,
G
 
I like about +3" on the street, still very usable in the hills and able to put a lot more power down without being a pogo stick
Most times the manual fan switch is parralled to the temp switch so it still works as normal but you can override it
But if the temp switch has been removed for up pipe clearance you can get a relocator that puts it in the top hose next to the cyl .
 
Ok, yeah, I'm an idiot. When the guy told me about the fan switch I took it to mean it wouldn't come on by itself. It's a little hard to hear over the exhaust (or lack thereof) but I believe it is coming on. Thanks for pointing that out. :)

With regard to stretch, how do people like the extenders for the stock swing arm? I see them on ebay for not a whole lot. I'd rather not invest in another swingarm as I have the stocker yet set aside. Also, any issues at the track with a 3" and stock tail? I though I read somewhere that the rear wheel can't extend to far beyond and be 'track legal' some places?

G
 
congrats on the new bike.. Ive been E-mailing Frank From Powerhouse the past few weeks to get my build all figured out to the last detail.. I Cant wait to get my build done.. Frank is AWESOME and great to deal with.
 
Thanks guys. Would have loved to be in a position to have Frank take my '07 and make it into a monster. I guess the silver lining behind all the headaches right now and those yet to come on my new '01 is that I'll gain some knowledge out of it all. :thumbsup:

G
 
Put a few more pics in the gallery. When I bought the bike the guy said it had a PC 2, but also that he programmed it via USB so I assumed it was a 3. Well, it turns out we were both right. For some reason it has both. :oh: Not sure whats up with that? There's also an MPS Racing box that may have to do with the power shifter that was removed before I bought the bike, and also a small mystery box on the bottom left of the picture with a red and black wire coming out of it.

Also put up a pic of the mess of an oil pan. I think that may be JB Weld on the side keeping the oil in there? Time to hit ebay for a replacement perhaps.

Last pic is of the distance I have to raise the front end up at the top of the fork. Only a couple mm really unless I raise the bars a little over the top. Guessing that's not usually advisable though, right?

G

My 2001
 
If it has secondaries I'm willing to bet the pc3 has a map sensor hooked to it, and is running the secondaries. Pc2 runs the bike.
 
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