Wanting to do a 1441 build




Medic20102

Registered
So I’m taking my gen 1 to a shop this week for major engine work and I wanted to figure out exactly which direction to go. I want to stay on 93 because that’s whats easily available to me. I want it to be streetable without worrying about overheating but I also want to make a poop ton of power on all motor. Looking at spending up to 6500 on the motor? Builder was talking about a high compression 1441? Opinions? Pros cons?
 

Medic20102

Registered
Depends on what you want to do with the bike, and how you like to make power. A 1441 can make for a good street bike, but so can a stage 1 turbo. Search through some build threads, @greg3852 and @busakiller are a couple of places to start.
Wanted to make a some good serious power,230-240 range while on pump gas but wanted to go the all motor route so as still to have that sleeper profile where going turbo people are gonna know what’s up right off the bat, but I’ve read some horror stories with 1441
 

Mr Brown

Registered
Wanted to make a some good serious power,230-240 range while on pump gas but wanted to go the all motor route so as still to have that sleeper profile where going turbo people are gonna know what’s up right off the bat, but I’ve read some horror stories with 1441
Doubt you'll make that on pump without spraying it, but perhaps.
Horror stories about modified stuff are everywhere, it's all about your builder.
 
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Tached1300

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Spraying isn’t an issue I was just worried about spraying on the high compression side
Nitrous unlike turbo or a supercharger is fine with higher compression (disclaimer with a well sorted and tuned for the combination with air/fuel ratio and timing/retard etc)

Like Mr Brown said it comes down to the builder and tuning. Where are you located? I ask because if you are close to N.C. check out Lee’s Performance.
 

greg3852

Registered
Couple questions to ask yourself, can you handle being without the bike while issues are fixed? Can you afford to fix it when problems arise?

Building a 1441 will cost you the same or more as a turbo and make less power. Unless you have a bike scene nearby that you can race everyday with different people, everyone is going to know you have a built motor Busa and not race you anyway. If you are looking for the stock look then run a full exhaust on the turbo and keep the air cleaner within the plastic. Only someone really looking would see the turbo.

Reason I say that is I had a built 1397 which cost me about the same you’re thinking and I lost the entire motor when a single oil bolt backed out on a ride from NY. One bolt cost me everything. Yes it could have happened on a turbo build too, but with a NA build your hands touch every single bolt on the bike. I was constantly worried when riding that something was gonna break. The bike was amazingly fast. But it was a constant headache. Once adding power I found it broke the next weakest link. Then the next. If you can tolerate that, then go to town. If I had the opportunity to do it over I would go turbo without a second thought.

Going 1441 be prepared to make a second fan and switch for the fans as it will run hot. You have to run at least head studs. You’re gonna want to lower it, going to want some lighter rims, etc. It adds up. Without doing these things even with a 1441 you won’t compete with the latest liter bikes. Trust me. I just returned from down this road. Search for some of my threads.

Don’t get me wrong I’m not saying a built motor bike can’t be reliable. I’m just saying a turbo will be more reliable, more power, and easily upgraded if you choose. After you get used to the 1441 and want more then what? Spray? Yes good luck with that. Now it’s more unreliable.

Again, good luck whichever road you go down, but as someone who just drove it, turn at the turbo and never look back.
 

greg3852

Registered
Also just to give you an idea on pricing.

Head work $1200
New block and pistons $1000
Gen 2 crank $500
Cams $1000
Studs $130
Gaskets etc $100

That’s $4k without any builder charges and that’s for a vanilla 1441. If you want to actually beat liter bikes or a Zx14r you are going to need more than that.
 

Tached1300

Registered
Lee’s Performance has several stages here is one for example it assumes you’ve already done the stages before this one just as an example of what you are getting into plus as Greg3852 mentioned going fast is about the total combination of parts and let’s not forget the rider I am not affiliated with Lee’s Performance at all but I used to visit their shop a lot back in the day and Ive watched their bikes running at the strip for over 20 years now

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Tached1300

Registered
I like the Turbo idea as well, it can be more docile for everyday riding, efficient and have a great area under the curve which is what wins races.

I love natural aspiration and high rpm but it gets to a point where it becomes a one purpose kinda deal
 

greg3852

Registered
Competition CNC Hayabusa Products
1441cc Busa Gen1
84mm Bore (+3mm) +2mm stroke Gen 2 crank
224-245 HP Depending on compression ratio, cams, and fuel
Fully blue-printed engines
All machine work done in house


Our engine packages with our CNC ported head and cam packages produce between .155 and .170 hp per cc depending on compression ratio and camshafts.
  • Bore and re-plate cylinder to 84mm
  • Diamond hone block
  • Resurface block deck
  • CP Pistons, 84mm
  • Gen 2 crankshaft
  • Re-size connecting rods
  • Main bearings
  • Rod bearings
  • Micro polish crankshaft journals
  • Oil system modifications
  • High volume oil pump gear
  • Adjustable cam gears
  • Engine gasket set
  • Head gasket
  • Base Gasket
  • Block spacer
  • Blueprint and assemble engine
Pricing
  • With stage 1 CNC ported head (stock cams)$5395
  • With stage 1 CNC ported head (street cams)$6295
  • With stage 2 CNC ported head (street/strip cams, lowered guides)$6395
  • With stage 2 CNC ported head (O/S valves, bronze seats, street/strip cams)$7395
  • With stage 3 CNC ported head (O/S valves, bronze seats, bronze guides, CNC Clearance for cams, race cams, race fuel)$7895
Options
  • Manual cam chain tensioner
  • Carrillo H Beam rods$995
  • Bored throttle bodies$650
  • Race cut transmission$550
  • Dummy balance shaft$30
  • Cut factory or Billet oil pan
  • Aftermarket clutches lock-up or slider
 

Bumblebee

Registered
Decent price for a street dominator...especially if you already own the (paid for) Busa platform. Be much cheaper than buying a factory bike with that power IMO.
 

Tached1300

Registered
Competition CNC Hayabusa Products
1441cc Busa Gen1
84mm Bore (+3mm) +2mm stroke Gen 2 crank
224-245 HP Depending on compression ratio, cams, and fuel
Fully blue-printed engines
All machine work done in house


Our engine packages with our CNC ported head and cam packages produce between .155 and .170 hp per cc depending on compression ratio and camshafts.
  • Bore and re-plate cylinder to 84mm
  • Diamond hone block
  • Resurface block deck
  • CP Pistons, 84mm
  • Gen 2 crankshaft
  • Re-size connecting rods
  • Main bearings
  • Rod bearings
  • Micro polish crankshaft journals
  • Oil system modifications
  • High volume oil pump gear
  • Adjustable cam gears
  • Engine gasket set
  • Head gasket
  • Base Gasket
  • Block spacer
  • Blueprint and assemble engine
Pricing
  • With stage 1 CNC ported head (stock cams)$5395
  • With stage 1 CNC ported head (street cams)$6295
  • With stage 2 CNC ported head (street/strip cams, lowered guides)$6395
  • With stage 2 CNC ported head (O/S valves, bronze seats, street/strip cams)$7395
  • With stage 3 CNC ported head (O/S valves, bronze seats, bronze guides, CNC Clearance for cams, race cams, race fuel)$7895
Options
  • Manual cam chain tensioner
  • Carrillo H Beam rods$995
  • Bored throttle bodies$650
  • Race cut transmission$550
  • Dummy balance shaft$30
  • Cut factory or Billet oil pan
  • Aftermarket clutches lock-up or slider
These are some of the best head guys out there no doubt excellent workmanship, they did a set for my car and a few others I was involved with
 

busakiller

Registered
You want 240 250 on pump gas go with a stage one rcc turbo kit. The kit has a small filter that fits inside the fairing. You can also get a full exhaust on it to so no side dumps. That will be total sleeper bike. If I was you go that route. Don’t do anything other then rcc turbo kit. Or if you send you bike to rob at boost cycle performance he could build you a custom kit and tune the bike Thur the ecu. That will save you some money. Since you don’t have to buy a power commander. I have a 1397 in my bike and I love it but it don’t make much more then 200whp. But I do have nitrous on it. Just go turbo. You will thank me later. Well as long you have some one tune right. Like rob at Boosted cycle performance.
 

Medic20102

Registered
Also just to give you an idea on pricing.

Head work $1200
New block and pistons $1000
Gen 2 crank $500
Cams $1000
Studs $130
Gaskets etc $100

That’s $4k without any builder charges and that’s for a vanilla 1441. If you want to actually beat liter bikes or a Zx14r you are going to need more than that.
[/
My builder had me quoted at 2100 for 1397 and said if I wanted to go bigger I’d need to add the parts. I would up finding a gen 2 crank for 700 and carillo!rods for 900
 
I was hoping those two would chime in, because they've both got recent experience in what you're considering.
Thanks gents.
Hi. Do not cut any corners . Do it right the first tine $6500.00 will just buy the rotating assemble. Now add trans $3000.00 clutch+ cover+ support $3500.00+ head up to $5000.00+case work $875.00++++.I know I am doing it all now. Then again I am doing a 1000HP motor. I also have parts for sale. I would do a 1500+ cc motor. Mike at 508-496-5680. Lees is a good shop but I deal with DME and Frank at Powerhouse 631-491-6767. You can see mp post My very slow build.
 
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