Valves checked/ how necessary?

edcop

Banned
I have an 08 hayabusa and am going to get a dyno-tune within a week or so.

I have never had the valves checked in 30.000 miles. How necessary is it to have the valves checked and should I have them checked before I get my bike dyno-tuned?
 
I have an 06 that has 42k on it. ive had my valves checked at 15,30, and 42 with my 1397 getting put on and its always been dead on. no adjustments needed.
 
Thats really great to hear guys, thanks:thumbsup:
With all the money i have been putting into my bike for mods and everything over the winter, i don't feel like putting anymore money into my bike than i have too.
 
Thats really great to hear guys, thanks:thumbsup:
With all the money i have been putting into my bike for mods and everything over the winter, i don't feel like putting anymore money into my bike than i have too.

Don't let a valve adjustment scare you either, it's very easy to do yourself(dealer will rape you). You just have to buy a few different size shims if any are out of spec, ocasionally you can even swap two and save a couple bucks:laugh:
If you don't already have the service manual, download it.
Service manuals for Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycles, free download of service manuals for your GSXR bikes
 
I'm with six-pack. Definitely check those valves, especially if you've got 30k on that motor.

Checking the valves is pretty easy. Swapping the shims is harder, but just checking them is easy, and if you check them, you will KNOW if they need to be adjusted.
 
Let me be the guy who tells you I didn't bother. Bike ran like crap for 3 months before I figured it out. It's better to know they're good than to guess. Once the damage is done it's done.
 
Let me be the guy who tells you I didn't bother. Bike ran like crap for 3 months before I figured it out. It's better to know they're good than to guess. Once the damage is done it's done.
That's a good word of warning. Once the damage is done, it's done.

Since I think this thread may have been started in response to my post on your earlier thread on prepping for tune, please let me explain.

Your valve lash (clearance) relates directly to valve lift. You want both all intake and all exhaust valves to lift the same amount respectively so that the airflow, filling, and exhaust is the same on all cylinders. All those things are balanced, so if one exhaust is too loose, then that cylinder will not exhaust well AND it will not fill as well with fresh fuel/air mixture on the next intake stroke. Look up valve overlap yada yada to see how this works.

Ok, so now the flow and POWER is down on one cylinder. You can adjust your throttle bodies to compensate a little so the power is similar on all cylinders. But what are you really doing with this? You are reducing power on the other cylinders to balance with the poorly performing cylinder! (which makes the engine run smoother)

This is the main reason I recommend getting the valves right first, then doing the throttle bodies, then the dyno tune. Get that engine right first. People skip the valve lash because it's a pain in the @ss and it's expensive. But CHECKING the lash is not all that hard and will let you know if you need to go through the pain of a valve lash adjustment. The fact that this may also head off some catastrophic damage down the road only makes it all the more worth doing.

Thanks for listening. Good luck whatever you decide. :beerchug:
 
99% of the time, they're good, but what if you that 1%? I had mine checked, the were in spec, but i was glad i had em checked.
 
99% of the time, they're good, but what if you that 1%? I had mine checked, the were in spec, but i was glad i had em checked.

I'm with Fastfrog on this one. I'd like to have that peace of mind. If I had a Ferrari or Viper or (insert your fav here) you bet I wouldn't miss a lick on maintenance. I don't care what anyone said. That's kind of the same way I view my Busa.
 
Had mine checked about 40,000 miles, I had to pay $208 to be told they were perfectly in spec. However, I did get my money back after I was servicing the bike and saw how negligent the mechanic was who put my bike back together, looked like a 10 yr old put it together. I will be checking it myself probably this winter because I really don't trust them now. It is probably in spec but like everyone is saying the piece of mind is everything and once the damage is done its done.
 
ocasionally you can even swap two and save a couple bucks:laugh:
]

Get you a decent micrometer to check the shims, in case of any wear or if the numbers are not legible. Usually if the number is upside down it'll wear off...something to think about when you put new ones in
 
Get you a decent micrometer to check the shims, in case of any wear or if the numbers are not legible. Usually if the number is upside down it'll wear off...something to think about when you put new ones in

I have one, and for reasons beyond my control the bike I have now only has 11k on it. I'll check them this winter. I've seen a few bikes over the years where I could swap a couple shims, worked out good too when the shop had ran out of those sizes.:beerchug:
 
I have one, and for reasons beyond my control the bike I have now only has 11k on it. I'll check them this winter. I've seen a few bikes over the years where I could swap a couple shims, worked out good too when the shop had ran out of those sizes.:beerchug:

Yep, just readjusted mine and ran into the no numbers issue...had to mike them to swap
 
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