Valve springs removal question




Aly Kabil

Registered
can anyone tell me if there is any way or tool to change the valve springs while the engine is still in or i have to pull out the engine or at least the head... if there is some way does it need some special tools?
just want only to change the springs without make too much headache and time in the garage
 

Mr Brown

Registered
I'd say you'll at least have to rotate the motor forward to get to them. Not sure though.
My question is why you're swapping for gen 1 springs?
 

rubbersidedown

TURBO-BUSA-RIDIN'-BASTID
Donating Member
Registered
My question is why you're swapping for gen 1 springs?
Missed the part about gen I spring swap,but its late for me[4:47 AM]
Some Gen I parts are better.Richard at RCC Turbo's put Gen I shift forks in my build. There have been a few swaps out there worth doing.I helped a drag racing member out once on a swap for my aluminum sub frame for his steel to save him weight. I think there was a recall on the alum. one's,they had a tendency to break if you carried a pillion. [fat chic]
Back in the day...some would fill the combustion chamber on V-8's with thin rope to hold the valves up for valve seal replacement. This dude I knew custom made a spark plug with a hole down the center and filled the chamber with a constant flow of compressed air.I'm sure there is a better way.
1616562


Not sure if this is what yer asking. I believe Mr.Brown ^ is correct on a motor tilt to clear the frame with head removal. Rubb.
 

Mr Brown

Registered
Missed the part about gen I spring swap,but its late for me[4:47 AM]
Some Gen I parts are better.Richard at RCC Turbo's put Gen I shift forks in my build. There have been a few swaps out there worth doing.I helped a drag racing member out once on a swap for my aluminum sub frame for his steel to save him weight. I think there was a recall on the alum. one's,they had a tendency to break if you carried a pillion. [fat chic]
Back in the day...some would fill the combustion chamber on V-8's with thin rope to hold the valves up for valve seal replacement. This dude I knew custom made a spark plug with a hole down the center and filled the chamber with a constant flow of compressed air.I'm sure there is a better way.View attachment 1616562

Not sure if this is what yer asking. I believe Mr.Brown ^ is correct on a motor tilt to clear the frame with head removal. Rubb.
Yeah, some gen 1 parts are better, and the valve springs are one of those parts I believe. Just didn't know if doing this was necessary for his power goals.
 

GIXERHP

ok, ok...just a wee bit Irish...
Donating Member
Registered
This will work, but iyou need to have good compression!
 

Aly Kabil

Registered
I'd say you'll at least have to rotate the motor forward to get to them. Not sure though.
My question is why you're swapping for gen 1 springs?
to spray nos in gen2, and i have gen1 springs so i decided to use them so i can be able to spray 80 shots
 

Aly Kabil

Registered
Missed the part about gen I spring swap,but its late for me[4:47 AM]
Some Gen I parts are better.Richard at RCC Turbo's put Gen I shift forks in my build. There have been a few swaps out there worth doing.I helped a drag racing member out once on a swap for my aluminum sub frame for his steel to save him weight. I think there was a recall on the alum. one's,they had a tendency to break if you carried a pillion. [fat chic]
Back in the day...some would fill the combustion chamber on V-8's with thin rope to hold the valves up for valve seal replacement. This dude I knew custom made a spark plug with a hole down the center and filled the chamber with a constant flow of compressed air.I'm sure there is a better way.View attachment 1616562

Not sure if this is what yer asking. I believe Mr.Brown ^ is correct on a motor tilt to clear the frame with head removal. Rubb.
its much more easy in cars than bikes cos you have huge room to work not like bikes it so small room
 

202mphbusa

Registered
Haven't done it on a busa but many times on cars and lawn mowers ive used a leak down tester to fill the cylinder with pressure to hold the valves while pulling the springs
Problem is.......on a busa even if you use air or rope to hold the valves up the springs are in a bore. that makes it hard to push down on the top and still get at the keepers ESPECIALLY when putting them back in. don't get me wrong I have done it. but find it is so much easier and safer with pulling the head
 

Aly Kabil

Registered
Problem is.......on a busa even if you use air or rope to hold the valves up the springs are in a bore. that makes it hard to push down on the top and still get at the keepers ESPECIALLY when putting them back in. don't get me wrong I have done it. but find it is so much easier and safer with pulling the head
you did it while the engine still in the bike or you removed the engine out of the frame???
 

murphc13

Registered
Problem is.......on a busa even if you use air or rope to hold the valves up the springs are in a bore. that makes it hard to push down on the top and still get at the keepers ESPECIALLY when putting them back in. don't get me wrong I have done it. but find it is so much easier and safer with pulling the head
Can the head be pulled off a Busa with the engine in the frame?
 

murphc13

Registered
With bolts yes it can
But like a smart guy once told me

You are the chain and 6 bolts away from dropping the engine
and it is so much easier with the motor out
Does the rad need to be drained and removed to drop the engine?
Is there a mounting bracket for this engine or did you make something up?
 
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