Uneven wear on front tire

busa_bill

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I've got about 10k on an Avon Azaro front tire. I pulled the front wheel to do some work and noticed the tire was "cupped"￾ on both sides 360°.
I don't recall seeing this when I replaced the stock front, so am curious why this happened. Is it due to suspension settings?
Having a new tire mounted today and don't want the same thing happening to it.

Thanks for any help
Bill
 
I am having the same problem with the Avon Storm. The back is in very good shape but the front is cupping and wearing unevenly.
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Like rubber2burn said...... Tire Pressure or suspension settings... or both. Most common is Pressure.
 
While riding with a group lately, I notice some of the riders while relaxing their left hand on their left leg actually had the bike tilted/balanced to one side while going in a strait line. Not saying this is the cause, just a thought. Old picture of a friends front tire.

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Both tires are always between 40-42 cold, so I don't think pressure was the issue.
I'm 230 running on stock settings, so I guess I need to find the Jinkster's suspension thread and get it done. I've got 20k on the bike and have gotten accustom to how it rides.


Appreciate the reply's.
 
I think you reached the physical limits of the tire. Thats a shot of an Azaro after 9k miles, irregular wear circled was causing stuttering under heavy braking, changed to the Storms,love them, more sure footed but they're wearing faster.

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To get 9-10 thousand miles on a motorcycle tire you all must have some smoooth roads.
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Even the Harley guys tires don't last that long on our cheap & seal.
My OEM BT56 front is cupped right to the top of the wear bars in places on both sides at 1400 miles. Center is like new but it'll be V shaped by 3500 miles.
But the counties are saving a lot of tax dollars (for more important things such as road commission board member salary increases) by putting down rocks and pouring tar on it instead of using real pavement.
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10K miles is pushing a front tire pretty far. Even a minor adjustment or air presure problem will show up in the tread in that many miles.
 
we had a discussion about this recently on EBC, and I forget who, but a member posted cupping tires are often related to the fatigue from the tires side loading, going around corners etc, eventually pulls the tires cords into a distorted shape... combine with low air pressure. Suspension setting not so much, worn out suspension sure, but it would also have a hard time justifying 10k miles on a bottoming out suspension.

from Dunlop:

You may not be able to entirely avoid cupping. Tire cupping or irregular wear is a somewhat common occurrence on all vehicles. On a four-wheel vehicle, you are advised to rotate your tires periodically to even out wear. Unfortunately, you do not have this luxury with a motorcycle because front and rear tires, unlike those on a four-wheel vehicle, are not interchangeable.

However, there are steps that can be taken to minimize cupping and uneven wear on a motorcycle:

1. Maintain your motorcycle and particularly your front forks and suspension.


2. Avoid hard braking whenever possible. Braking causes the tire to grab and wear in one direction. When braking is applied to the front tire, the load transfer over-flexes the tire and increases the tendency for cupping and uneven wear.


3. Maintain your tire pressures. Underinflation or overinflation in motorcycle tires are significant causes of cupping and uneven wear, particularly in association with hard braking and/or trailer use.


Some of today's tires feature tread patterns and constructions that are less prone to cupping than the ribbed tires of old. The Dunlop 491, D401 and D402 touring and sport touring tires are good examples.

Tire companies can, and are, helping to minimize cupping and uneven wear but you, the rider, must do your part. Follow the aforementioned guidelines. How Much Run-in Should I Give a New Tire? When new tires are fitted, they should not be subjected to maximum power or hard cornering until a reasonable run-in distance of approximately 100 miles has been achieved.

This is necessary for a number of reasons. Replacements for worn tires with different patterns and construction will not react the same. Also, a new tire is stiffer than an old tire. The new tire has a rounder tread profile, different contact patch and "lean-over edge" than the worn profile of an old tire. The new tire will also not react the same in combination with its remaining tire.

Carrying out the required run-in will allow you to become accustomed to the "feel" of the new tires and tire combinations, so you are better able to achieve optimum road grip for use in high speed, high acceleration and handling situations.

And more from BMW, with nice illustrations....
http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/cupping/index.htm

Enjoy the ride.

Charlie
 
I think you reached the physical limits of the tire. Thats a shot of an Azaro after 9k miles, irregular wear circled was causing stuttering under heavy braking, changed to the Storms,love them, more sure footed but they're wearing faster.
Yep, that's how it looked. I guess I was going more off of rule of thumb 1 front to every two rears and pushed it too far. Got 6.5k out of the first Azaro rear and am 4k now into the Storm rear. Maybe that rule doesn't work on an ST tire?

Thanks for the info gentlemen.
 
I think you reached the physical limits of the tire. Thats a shot of an Azaro after 9k miles, irregular wear circled was causing stuttering under heavy braking, changed to the Storms,love them, more sure footed but they're wearing faster.
Yep, that's how it looked. I guess I was going more off of rule of thumb 1 front to every two rears and pushed it too far. Got 6.5k out of the first Azaro rear and am 4k now into the Storm rear. Maybe that rule doesn't work on an ST tire?

Thanks for the info gentlemen.
I usually get around 8,000 miles out of the rear AVONs. I always change front and rear as a set.
 
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