turbo buildup thus far


#3
well....don't know if you were looking for suggestions, but....

the header pipes are doing a pretty hard angle change there. A few more cuts and welding would have softened the angle change to make it less severe. It'll still work fine as it is, but the sharp bends will act as a baffle to the exhaust pulses, which will effect spool time and peak efficiency.

The charge pipe coming off the air box looks awfully small, what diameter is it?
 
#4
hey reaper just finished mine at put about 50 miles on her
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.it can be done dyi just takes a little longer.looking good man let me know if your going to need some maps a may have a few on hand
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#5
the intake diameter is small, but it is the same size as the outlet of the compressor, so i didn't think that that would really affect anything since the air had to already go through a passage that small. yeah, those are some sharp angles, but i am probably going to go to t3/t4 sooner or later, so it will suffice for now. i am not too concerned about spool time since i dont really want a huge ammount of boost at lower rpms. if i was going for more than my goal hp of 250-275hp, i would probably change it, but i am too excited about it too even think about taking apart something and redoing
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#7
the smaller the pipe the larger the pressure drop from point a to point b. The higher velocity creates more friction on the pipe walls, and is overly sensitive to directional changes (pipe bends)

There is no hard rule on what diameter the pipe should be for a given setup, but I would at least go over the compressor housing exit ID by 25%. IE, if the ID is 1.5" go with 2"

larger pipe, at an extreme would slow down the boost hit, because the vollume of air takes longer to pressurize, but it takes a lot of excess to be noticable. Where as, if you are too small and have a large pressure drop, you are moving the compressor further up the compressor map, causing more heat in the intake and possibly pushing the turbo out of its efficiency range (that is the extreme of course). The heat in the intake is very bad. More heat = detonation, which is how you blow up motors.
 
#8
I liked the simplicity of the log plenum box. For curiosity........why didnt you try to make a log type exaust?

It would be a pain but you could have done it. I dont like them but Ive seen others do it to help get the turbo up a bit higher on the engine.

The pics you have make me cringe when I think about wheel travel up front. Is that thing going to have suspension or is the pic just a funny angle?

Awesome how you are moving along though. The first couple times I did them on carb'd bikes I almost cried when I ran into a snag or some kind of snafu.
 
#9
i didn't like the style of the log exhaust. the log plenum is not too different from a normal plenum. it is just shorter. a log exhuast though is very diff from a normal header. the angle is wierd on the tire and there is a piece of plastic there too that makes it look closer than it is. i lowered it like 3 inches and it still has plenty on clearence.
 
#10
so i shortened the header today just a little less than an inch or so. helped a lot it looks like. just finished that up, so i will need to wait for it t cool then put it back on.....should be ok too for oil drainage issues now as well.
 
#11
NICE JOB!
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I'm thinking about making my own kit, but I'm just in the research stage right now, trying to understand how everything works and potential problems to avoid.

Has anyone had any problems with the 304 stainless steel headers cracking due to heat? An engineer friend of mine told me that I should use 320 or 330 series stainless, not 304.

Keep posting pics!
 
#17
and yea, those are zip ties holding the boost gauge on...i needed to finish fast in order to try and make it to the last track day, and that could be hack....oil lines and stuff couldn't, so the gauge will be dorky for now, but hey, it is a BOOST gauge none-the-less
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