So I have a 2012 busa with a rcc stage one turbo and a full exhaust. My wife made a pass down the track and it came back smoking a lot. I found that the turbo had some shaft play so I sent it out for rebuild. I also redid the return line (first setup had a 90 degree elbow at the flange and a hose going to the oil pan, now it's a straight fitting from the flange with a braided line), and made sure the crankcase breather wasn't obstructed. Put it all back together and once warm blue smoke pours out at idle. Do I need a scavenge pump? My other rcc stage one kit is identical and ive never had an issue. Oil level is right where it should be. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Turbo blowing a lot of oil
- Thread starter badnblack
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Kevin Jones
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Mine is doing the same thing at stop lights. Rcc stage 1, almost 2 weeks into tune and install. If I sit at a stop light for 20 seconds (less probably), it just starts the smoking from the dump pipe, know it pisses everybody off. It is a lot! I too have been adamant about monitoring the oil level. Runs fine, doesnt seem to do it any other time than when I am stationary, the motor is very warm, and I sit at idle speed for a good while. It takes a bit to start that. I turned down the fuel pressure a bit today, going to look at the plugs, make sure they are ok and change the oil. My line angle is nowhere near as sharp as yours. In fact, mine has almost no angle at all.
Kevin Jones
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Out of curiosity, what oil are you running?
GNBRETT
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have u checked ur oil level? make sure u don't have too much oil in there. a scavenge pump shud help but I don't have one and mine never smokes. although, I thought about installing one anyway.
wat do the plugs look like? cud be worn valve guide/seals. wat exactly did they do wen they rebuilt it cause snds like a Turbo seal issue.
wat do the plugs look like? cud be worn valve guide/seals. wat exactly did they do wen they rebuilt it cause snds like a Turbo seal issue.
RCC kits are designed to be used without a scavenger pump. The picture attached here is of a GTX35R which is larger, and hangs lower then your turbo. Notice how the oil drain points straight down. Secondly, look at how the line is a nice steady down hill run all the way to the oil pan. We've done even larger turbos where they hang even lower and do not have any draining issues draining with a -8 line, or have to worry about the turbo smoking due to oil backing up. Its all in how you set it up.
Badnblack, right away I see your problem. Think of water, it always wants to drain to the lowest point. With how your line is right now, the lowest point is not the drain fitting in the pan, its the low spot in the line causing the oil to collect and back up in to the turbo, in turn pushing past the seals, and causing your smoke issue. At a very minimum I would suggest putting the 90 degree fitting back on the turbo with it facing right at the engine or slightly offset towards the oil pan fitting. The correct way would be to spin the center section so the drain is pointing straight down. Then cut the line and make as much of a direct straight route from the turbo to the pan as possible like you see in the pic I posted. Hope that helps my friend.
Badnblack, right away I see your problem. Think of water, it always wants to drain to the lowest point. With how your line is right now, the lowest point is not the drain fitting in the pan, its the low spot in the line causing the oil to collect and back up in to the turbo, in turn pushing past the seals, and causing your smoke issue. At a very minimum I would suggest putting the 90 degree fitting back on the turbo with it facing right at the engine or slightly offset towards the oil pan fitting. The correct way would be to spin the center section so the drain is pointing straight down. Then cut the line and make as much of a direct straight route from the turbo to the pan as possible like you see in the pic I posted. Hope that helps my friend.
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Not a problem brother!
No sir, no check valve is needed.
No sir, no check valve is needed.
Kevin Jones
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I had a bit too much oil like Brett said.
SuedePflow
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murderedout07 nailed it. With a gravity drain, the line needs to be at it's lowest point with it dumbs back into the pan/crankcase. From the angle of the image there, it looks like the middle of the line is the lowest point and then it travels back up toward the end. I would put a 90* fitting under the turbo and keep the line up as high as you can to promote better flow.
I sent it to midwest turbo center. I told them to go through everything and send it back good as new. They charged me $350 so I would hope they redid the seals! I hope it's not the motor, it only has 4k on it and has been ridden by my wife the entire time so it's had a pretty easy life.
Did you go out and beat on it to help clear the rest of the oil out of the turbo? Changing the line and starting it up, it's still gonna smoke. Oil likes to hang around for a bit. And it's a good excuse to beat on it. Line looks perfect now. Ideally I'd still like the see the drain pointing straight down tho.
Kevin Jones
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After I lowered my oil level, mine was still smoking but I think I got a handle on it. Rob, please correct me if I am wrong but that line is just a drain back from the turbo to the oil pan for oil that is not needed by the turbo, correct? It really isnt pressurized, right? His line correction looked like mine but with my front end lowered, it still left a slight low spot in the line for oil to gather in the line. In essence, the pan wasnt the lowest spot. I actually angled my fitting on the pan slightly upward, shortened the line and now have as close to a 45 angle from the turbo to the pan as possible. I think I fixed it but I need to sit in traffic and see. Mine ONLY did it at stoplights in the FL heat with the stoplights being long. It would take a little bit of sitting for this to happen. If this is similar to the OP, he doesnt have a motor problem as the motor would put visible smoke even when slowly rolling, ie. rings or a valve not seating. Might not see it when moving as the smoke would dissipate.
Kevin Jones
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The height of the fitting in the pan might be more important than we think. If the nipple is not quite above the resting idle level on the oil line, well, maybe only half of the line can be open at that time which is resistance in itself. Oil from the pan may leave the pan and go into the line which is backwards from what we want, or am I wrong?
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