Tubbed the rear to keep from tire rubbing


I experienced the rear tire rubbing problem on the track when I went to a slightly higher profile rear tire than the MCR2.
It began to eat up the undertail, and getting into some dangerous business near the powercommander and some of the shifter equipment.

- this was an afternoon emergency repair so I could run the next day - the Tiger Tail is on my xmas list.

- I am no B.T. so don't expect some fancy posting.

First, gotta get the rear off. Then take off the undertail/storage box.
I cut the entire box out, just leaving enough of a frame to hold the battery, and bolt up on the corners.
- with the box cut out, I took some pre-cut sheet metal that is used for making stove pipes. you can get this at your local true value store for a few bucks.
- took my time shaping it, bending the edjes over, yada yada, and screwed the ends into the box.

About 2 hours of cutting and bending, and it was done. Bolt it on, put the plastic tail and the seat on. Fit well.

Next, mounted PC3R on the left outer part of the frame, airshifter bottle on the right outer part, and the air compressor neatly tucked in next to the taillight.

As you can see in these terribly lit photos, this thing will 'get low'. Absolutely no storage room below the hump, but we all know about the hump storage mod..... right??
- p.s. - the wire ties are not legal on the track... sshhhh.....

Are you 2" lowered in the rear???

My problem is right behind the tail light is where it's eating thru...I think this mod will work...

Have you had a problem at the rear with your extentions???
he looks more than 2....prolly around 3 or 4
with the license plate off, no problem. extended swingarm, depending on how far you go back, would need to remove the plastic from the area where you see my plate mounted. I made it so the tub goes back to the tail light, that-away I can remove more of the undertail when I do add the extensions.... sorry they are not on yet.

normally, the plate is not there, and 4" extension would be fine as it is..

3"down in back, 1.25" down in front. any further down in front, I would be breaking stuff upon landing. ;)
So the end of the tail section in not anchored to any thing???
take off the tail section. you will see what i'm talkin about.
remove seat, remove two phillips screws below the hump on the sides, the two tie-down bolts, and 6 push-fasteners. the tail section will come off, disconnect the taillight connector as you take the tail off.

now, once that is off, there is two bolts in the rear and two in the front of your undertail/box. take those off, remove your rear brake line (do it quickly while removing the box) and voila. you'll see what I mean.

hope you got some time...... specially if you never had the tail off. once you did it a few times, only takes 3 minutes.
if your serious about doing this yourself, I will take mine off and post BulletTrain type pics this saturday for you. holla.
I've taken her apart before...If I have any problems I'll let you know...Sleeper I couldn't connect w/the ref site...May be due to overload I'll try it later...Thanks...
You know fellas, I tubed mine without taking the rear off. I'm not sure how low mine is I made the lowering links myself. Six inches from center of bolt hole to bolt hole. Sits lower than Caches. Mine had molded the stock plastic of the trunk to the shape of the tire. So I used it as a guide and cut it out with a utility knife. Then I took my straps up and over the rafters and secured them to the rear passenger pegs. Took off the dog bones and eased her on down all the way. Cut out more of the stock inards until I had about a quater inch of clearence all the way around the tire. Then I took several sheets of tin foil and lifted the bike back up and placed them on the tire. Lowered her back down on the foil and made a form. Next I set the tin foil aside and was extremely careful not to bend it. Then fiberglassed away with the bondo fiberglass resin kit and some fiberglass cloth. All available from Home Depot. Kept applying until it was the shape and thickness I needed. Keep an inch or so of cloth on the side without getting any resin on it. Once dry, (about two hours) insert into rear and resin the edges of the cloth into the trunck. You can even cut off your tool bag tie down teeth and glass them onto you'r new inards. Maybe a little lumpy at first, but you can sand smooth and paint when dry. Very easy stuff. The whole process only took me about 5 hours by myself. 3 one night and 2 the next. I have no way to post pictures yet but when I do I'll post them. I left it unpainted thus far for this very reason. Hope this helps. Easiest way I know to do it.:D Nd cheapest to. Cost a whole $9.47:)
1313R that's a good idea...But I just ordered the Tiger Eliminator from Schnitz...I don't like doing the sort of in depth work that you did nor can I stand the mess I would make... :devil: