Torque Wrench?

UNDERCOVER4

Registered
Just wondering if anyone has any opinions on a good torque wrench to buy. I have a Craftsman now that failed me on my old ZX11 years ago (over tightened and broke a bolt). I'm getting ready soon here to install my new exhaust on my Busa and I need a quality torque wrench.

:please:
 
Sorry to say but you really need 3. You need a 1/4 a 3/8 and a 1/2. Brand don't know, Cornwell or Mac or Snap on, several good ones out there to choose from. No matter which one you choose be sure to back off all the tension when you are through using it.
 
I use a Craftsman that I got about 4 years ago and it seems OK. I was wondering if they redesigned it over the years. Also I didn't use my torque wrench to install my full system and everything seems OK too. On a tangent is the drive sprocket nut the one with the highest torque value on the Busa?
 
I really need one. Been wrenching on the Busi for 9 years without one and have been one lucky gorilla.
 
I have 3 Snap-On torque wrenches, 20-200 inch lbs, 20-100 ft lbs, 20-250 ft lbs. Even though they are Snap-On wrenches I still have them checked regularly, only once has one been off enough to get recalibrated. Also never, ever yank on a torque wrench or continue to apply additional pressure after it clicks.
 
Sorry to say but you really need 3. You need a 1/4 a 3/8 and a 1/2. Brand don't know, Cornwell or Mac or Snap on, several good ones out there to choose from. No matter which one you choose be sure to back off all the tension when you are through using it.

3 for the exhaust job, or just 3 in general?
 
You will only need one with the torque range of what you are working on. Altough 20-200 inch pounds and 20-100ft. lbs covers the Busa.
 
The intermediate torque wrench (3/8) drive will be easier to us at lower torque values such as the spark plugs (7 ftbls).

Also some other helpful hints, don't use you your torque wrench to take / free bolts, that will throw off the calibrations, grab a good breaker bar to free the stubborn bolts.

To get the most accurate torque you must have the handle in motion when it clicks. If you have to ratchet it back and it clicks instead of moving the bolt you are close but you need to back off the bolt and re-torque.

Lastly if you see torque settings with a dash ( 25 - 40) that means it is stepped you must bring all bolts on the part to 25ftbls in order and then reset your wrench to 40 and go in order again.
This is also when I found out an aluminium water pump can shatter.

The clicker type is worth the money.

Sounds like a lot to remember but you will do fine.
 
I have and use all 3 for a full tear down. All Craftsman and not had an issue with them yet. Back them down to the lowest setting when not in use.
 
Torque wrench what s that :D :thumbsup:

o yes nice theme

if u take a 20 Nm torque wrench 5 imes to the same nut/screw you will get 100 Nm´s onto
rofl-smily.gif


query :
is the manufaktory called "stahlwille" known in usa?

this is the very best you can get 4 money,
becaus the very special thing about it is that you do not have to put it back to zero to save the torque feather inside.
the "stahlwille" you can leave in the box / drawer for "years" at any torque
and it will work still fine, means the calibration is almost never lost - proper use preceded
tolerance of torque is at 1%

this one (see pic) 4 - 20 Nm ~ 3 -14 ft lb + 1/4" ratchet i use with hex tool 8 only for the 6mm screws
e.g. at clutch cover or chain cover
Stahlwille Manoskop730-2, 4-20Nm.JPG


using that "rolls royce" of the tools i never ever can tear out a inner thread in the aluminium.

my little hint - see this link :
 
Last edited:
o yes nice theme

if u take a 20 Nm torque wrench 5 imes to the same nut/screw you will get 100 Nm´s onto
View attachment 1607670

query :
is the manufaktory called "stahlwille" known in usa?

this is the very best you can get 4 money,
becaus the very special thing about it is that you do not have to put it back to zero to save the torque feather inside.
the "stahlwille" you can leave in the box / drawer for "years" at any torque
and it will work still fine, means the calibration is almost never lost - proper use preceded
tolerance of torque is at 1%

this one (see pic) 4 - 20 Nm ~ 3 -14 ft lb + 1/4" ratchet i use with hex tool 8 only for the 6mm screws
e.g. at clutch cover or chain cover
View attachment 1607671

using that "rolls royce" of the tools i never ever can tear out a inner thread in the aluminium.

my little hint - see this link :
@Berlin Germany Whoa! and "Rolls Royce" cost! lol
 
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