wht_scorpion
Registered
What tire size would be good for a 06 hayabusa so I could do twisties and get low with out low or high siding?
Tire size for twisties
- Thread starter wht_scorpion
- Start date
cheferman65
Registered
Use the stock tire size and learn how to ride...
Your question makes no sense in regards to getting low or preventing high or low side mishaps. Proper riding technique, proper body position, proper speeds, good judgement, road conditions, suspension set up....some factors that contribute to what you seek. Tires will only lean so far before letting go, how far your willing to try is completely up to you and your ability.
Your question makes no sense in regards to getting low or preventing high or low side mishaps. Proper riding technique, proper body position, proper speeds, good judgement, road conditions, suspension set up....some factors that contribute to what you seek. Tires will only lean so far before letting go, how far your willing to try is completely up to you and your ability.
Tire size can help make it easier to tip in, but it won't prevent you from crashing. Like the others said above, it's all about the rider. Get to a trackday and learn performance cornering.
wht_scorpion
Registered
I got back from the dragon and I was ok with leaning in but people were say busa cant turn which pisst me off because I did not want to lean to far over to prove them right. I still have chicken strips about 1/2 inch on each side. First time going to the dragon I love it getting ready to make plans to go next year. I was reading one of the threads on here about leaning in to the turn.
I also read in a thread about use sport touring tire on the rear and a sticky tire on the front. Im running roadsmart2 in the front and rear but Im going to have to replace them in a couple of months so I was thing roadsmart3 for the rear and C2 on the front.
I also read in a thread about use sport touring tire on the rear and a sticky tire on the front. Im running roadsmart2 in the front and rear but Im going to have to replace them in a couple of months so I was thing roadsmart3 for the rear and C2 on the front.
If you want to do ANYTHING, in the rear go from a 190/50 to a 190/55 but that would be it. The 55 will allow a little faster turn in, and more meat on the ground when leaned over. Frankly, I've ridden both on trackdays, and I have yet to be able to tell much difference. A 55 costs a little more than a 50. I suspect you'd do just fine on a 50 for street riding.
wht_scorpion
Registered
I went to wheelers at the dragon and he ask me about that 50 or 55 because I was keeping my options open I didnt know about the difference. I had him adjust my front forks and the rear shock he said that might help with the twisties.
He's asking you which one because he has them both, and SERIOUS riders will prefer a 55 series even though it costs a little more. Frankly, you'd be fine with either one. Brand would be more important than the difference between a 50 and 55 IMHO
lankeeyankee
Banned
I personally wouldnt run the Roadsmart3 if your planning on challenging your riding skills in the twisties.
Ignorant people making comments about Busas not being able to turn is a misconcept by ignorant riders due to a lot of Busa owners stretch and lower them and mainly use the performance in straight lines. Many guys here run there Busas on track days. With the effect your feeling from these ignorant comments that are made towards you and your bike could lead to disaster by pushing your bike over your abilities to try and prove someone wrong. Ride hard and fast but not faster then your abilities. Tell your buddies to come to the Dragon during the fall bash and ride with some of these non turning busas.
I personally wouldnt run the Roadsmart3 if your planning on challenging your riding skills in the twisties.
Ignorant people making comments about Busas not being able to turn is a misconcept by ignorant riders due to a lot of Busa owners stretch and lower them and mainly use the performance in straight lines. Many guys here run there Busas on track days. With the effect your feeling from these ignorant comments that are made towards you and your bike could lead to disaster by pushing your bike over your abilities to try and prove someone wrong. Ride hard and fast but not faster then your abilities. Tell your buddies to come to the Dragon during the fall bash and ride with some of these non turning busas.
Your busa "Turns" just fine it just doesn't corner very well.
Some day in the distant future you "May" learn the difference?
But then "The best you've ridden is the best you know"!
wht_scorpion
Registered
See I want to ride the bike on twisties and normal riding to best of both world. That why I like the roadsmarts tire do you have any suggestions on tires and size? I'm run roadsmarts on front and back 190/50R17 what should I use and the best tire for every day riding and twisties?
I've run Avon Storm Sport Touring tires and BridgeStone BT003 track tires on Busa's in the dragon. Any good street tire out there is more than capable of handling elimination of the chicken strips. The difference between a good street tire and a sticky track tire is how fast you can make them go away.
lankeeyankee
Banned
I didnt have much luck when I tried a sport touring tire (Michelin Pilot Road 3). Its a scale with one side being traction and the other being mileage. Soft tires grip but shread quicker, hard tires last but dont grip as well in aggresive riding.
I have never had any traction issues with the Michelin 2CT's. There are guys here that swear by the Dunlop Q2's. There was a recent poll on tires and the Michelins out numbered the others by twice as much. Tires are almost like talking about oil and religion. Lots of opinions but you have to try different brands to get the confidence in a tire you choose and are satisifed with the mileage. I average around 2800 for a rear and 3500 on the front with the CT2's. These are when the wear bars are flush with the tread, I dont run my tires beyond them. I judge a tire in this order for the Hayabusa and my riding style.
1) Traction
2) How the tire rides at high speeds.
3) Mileage.
I have never had any traction issues with the Michelin 2CT's. There are guys here that swear by the Dunlop Q2's. There was a recent poll on tires and the Michelins out numbered the others by twice as much. Tires are almost like talking about oil and religion. Lots of opinions but you have to try different brands to get the confidence in a tire you choose and are satisifed with the mileage. I average around 2800 for a rear and 3500 on the front with the CT2's. These are when the wear bars are flush with the tread, I dont run my tires beyond them. I judge a tire in this order for the Hayabusa and my riding style.
1) Traction
2) How the tire rides at high speeds.
3) Mileage.
Search TIRES and you will find pages and pages of discussion about tires (you may find the answer you are looking for as it has been discussed ad nauseum). It is a tradeoff of grip vs wear. Better grip=less tire life more wear and visa versa. In the end however, most everyone will agree that you can sacrifice SOME grip for better wear on the rear for street riding, but it's the FRONT that you should put the best grip you can afford on regardless of tire life.
The Michelin crowd will point you towards one type of tire; the Dunlop crowd (me included) will steer you towards the Q2 front, and either a Q2 rear or a Roadsmart II rear (plenty of street grip but a hard center for wear). In reality, until you learn more about tires and riding fast, both of these will do you just fine (as will tires from Pirelli, Avon, etc). No matter how good a tire you buy, it's your RIDING that will define whether you cause a crash or not. There is a wide variety in price that also comes into the purchase decision. Michelins are over $300 a set, but you can buy Dunlops in the 200's. The new Bridgestone S20's you can buy in the lower $200's.
If you REALLY want to learn about your bike and what it's capable of, a Trackday comes HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! You will learn more about your bike and what it can do in one day than you can an entire season on the street.
The Michelin crowd will point you towards one type of tire; the Dunlop crowd (me included) will steer you towards the Q2 front, and either a Q2 rear or a Roadsmart II rear (plenty of street grip but a hard center for wear). In reality, until you learn more about tires and riding fast, both of these will do you just fine (as will tires from Pirelli, Avon, etc). No matter how good a tire you buy, it's your RIDING that will define whether you cause a crash or not. There is a wide variety in price that also comes into the purchase decision. Michelins are over $300 a set, but you can buy Dunlops in the 200's. The new Bridgestone S20's you can buy in the lower $200's.
If you REALLY want to learn about your bike and what it's capable of, a Trackday comes HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! You will learn more about your bike and what it can do in one day than you can an entire season on the street.
lankeeyankee
Banned
Over 300 a set for Michelins? WRONG!!! Little under $240 to my door last month for michelins.
lankeeyankee
Banned
Yes tire price can vary on the internet. Ive seen it vary as much as 25%. Yes, the Q2's are a little cheaper then the Michelins but you get what you pay for 
lankeeyankee
Banned
Damn! Prices have jumped! Ive paid 143 and looking the current price is 161!!!
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