Tire buying.

I ran Q2s at barber this last weekend and Sunday was a washout. Spun up the rear one time real good, but i was too ham fisted on the bike. They do just fine in the rain. Sprints down the front were good for 100mph...
 
I have ridden in several pouring rain conditions and the Q3's felt as solid as the PP 2CT's. I'm not trying to sell tires but these things are definitely a step up in tire technology. To me a good tire starts with grip but that's just part of it. I want that sharp feel to the bars, whether the pressure in the tire is low or high. I didn't even realize how mushy the steering felt with the PP 2CT's until I tried the Q3's. It's subtle, but I could feel the bike's response change as you rolled over into a lean with the PP 2ct's. The Q3's are very linear as you lean. You get the same road feel at 45-50 degrees lean that you have at 10 degrees. Very confidence inspiring. Finally the braking on the Q3's is awesome. Its hard to explain but if you step on a balloon made of thin rubber it squishes out all over and does not support your foot. But a balloon with stronger walls will support the weight of your foot and offer more stability. That's how it felt going from the PP 2CTs to the Q3's. Maybe some of the track guys like Tuff can better explain this stuff.


I'm not saying the Michelins are bad tires, just that the Q3's are obviously a generation better.
 
+1 on Rockymountain. I always use it to grab stuff for the ATV but didnt think about bike tires, saved 30$ for a set and Angel GTs, came plastic wrapped.
 
So I received my tires from Rocky Mountain today. They came wrapped in plastic. No damage or other issues.

There was some of the grey splatter as noted in a previous post but was minimal.

Also, they wrapped a copy of the Dunlop rebate form along with the bill of sale in with the tires. In the end I'll end up paying $193.33 :thumbsup: Definitely can't complain about that.

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Maybe that's why you got a slightly better deal - because the tires were made last July.

Still good tires - it's just they wanted to give a deal so as to rotate their stock.

So are you going to mount yours yourself? And if so, what will you do with the old ones?
 
OK - getting ready to remove the wheels off the bike - it's almost 50 degrees here. :banghead:

I assume that most of you that buy tires online either change them yourselves or take them somewhere to have it done.

I have mixed feelings about if I should remove the rear caliper to remove the rear wheel.
Believe it or not the service manual does NOT list the removal of the rear caliper to remove the rear wheel.

So My question is DO YOU REMOVE THE REAR CALIPER WHEN YOU REMOVE THE REAR WHEEL?

Yes I KNOW that you have to remove the front calipers to get the front wheel off, but how about the rear?
I will be doing this alone so I won't have more than 2 hands - I don't know if that will make any difference.
This will be the first time I have removed the rear. I have removed the front before.

What is the verdict? Thanks in Advance...:bowdown:
 
On my phone so I didn't read all of the pages, but if GEN2, you have to remove the caliber to get the wheel off. And wrap it in a tube sock to prevent scratches.

Sent from my JKU!
 
On my phone so I didn't read all of the pages, but if GEN2, you have to remove the caliber to get the wheel off. And wrap it in a tube sock to prevent scratches.

Sent from my JKU!

Is a GEN I.

I guess my concerns are that service manual never says to remove it.
Being by myself, I thought that it might be easier to reinstall the wheel if I didn't have to also line up the rear caliper.

So no one with a GEN I has ever removed their rear wheel and reinstalled it? :handball:

Just looking for some feedback so I don't have to look back and say "Man I wish I had done it the other way" :banghead:
 
From what I remember, you do have to remove the caliper. If you don't you will only fight it. Once you do it a couple of times you can take it off in a few minutes. Pay attention to the spacer location and remove it from the wheel before you take it to the dealer so you don't lose it.

Sent from my JKU!
 
OK - getting ready to remove the wheels off the bike - it's almost 50 degrees here. :banghead:

I assume that most of you that buy tires online either change them yourselves or take them somewhere to have it done.

I have mixed feelings about if I should remove the rear caliper to remove the rear wheel.
Believe it or not the service manual does NOT list the removal of the rear caliper to remove the rear wheel.

So My question is DO YOU REMOVE THE REAR CALIPER WHEN YOU REMOVE THE REAR WHEEL?

Yes I KNOW that you have to remove the front calipers to get the front wheel off, but how about the rear?
I will be doing this alone so I won't have more than 2 hands - I don't know if that will make any difference.
This will be the first time I have removed the rear. I have removed the front before.

What is the verdict? Thanks in Advance...:bowdown:

I do not remove my caliper. I put the bike on the stand, put two pieces of 2x4 under my rear tire, pull my axle nut safety pin, take off the axle nut, slide the axle out, roll the tire forward and take the chain off of the sprocket, then as I roll/lift the wheel back and off I tilt the wheel so I do not hit it on the caliper. While the wheel is off I carefully spread the brake pads apart so there is a wider opening when I reassemble it.
 
So I received my tires from Rocky Mountain today. They came wrapped in plastic. No damage or other issues.

There was some of the grey splatter as noted in a previous post but was minimal.

Also, they wrapped a copy of the Dunlop rebate form along with the bill of sale in with the tires. In the end I'll end up paying $193.33 :thumbsup: Definitely can't complain about that.

^ Just can't beat this deal after rebate. I ordered my pair today and should have them Wednesday. Rebate deal ends 4/30 only three days left..
 
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