Timing Chain Jump

[Scotty D]

Is it even possible for the timing chain to jump a tooth and continue to start and run great up to 8k rpm?

 

[c10]

I have experienced installing cams 1 tooth off = a start / run however it ran very poorly idle to light rev.
Your problems lye elsewhere. What have you recently changed or done to the bike ?
Remove body panels ? Zip tie any new wiring to frame ? Change map on a power commander ?
Replace plugs ? Get coil wires mixed up from order m

 

[Scotty D]

I have removed all body panels several times due to installing a new radiator and having some wiring headlight issues. I recently removed a kill box/shift assist that was installed to the plug wires and horn toggle. The problem I'm experiencing existed before doing any of this. I was hoping it was the kill box or a wiring/ground issue but is not the issue. Like I said it starts and runs great up to 8k rpm where then it bawgs and will not power through. The fi light comes on at that point. I checked the fuel pump and it's operating at 100%. Unhooked the pc3 and retarder and no change except loss of power and crisp response and no fi light. I dont think its a throttle body issue but not sure. It seems at low idle I can hear the cam chain slapping. I pull the clutch in and the sound persisted. I've checked to see if it's something as stupid as the kickstand sensor but it isn't. I'm going to put a new oem tensioner plate on and do a valve job next. The motor has only 15k on it since doing a big bore kit and gen 2 crank. Any suggestions on what next? Thanks!!

 

[c10]

Ill reply via laptop tonight. Phone reply to time consuming

 

[Scotty D]

Cool thanks!

 

[c10]

Ok so you have a big bore kit , and new Radiator installed . Why new radiator please ? did bike overheat ? 1397 or 1441 and compression ratio ?
Have you looked at plugs ( age, mileage , please ) Have you performed a compression test on each cylinder ? When was last time bike ran perfect to you ? What changed after that date .