Time for a rebuild

Welllll it bad. Piston missing a nice chunk. Block has a big chunk taken out. I need some expert opinions on the head though. It appears it’s just poison material stuck to it. It seems to scrape of with not too much effort. Will I be okay to just pull out the valves and clean everything up or…?

Also, what would be a good price for a used block since mine is well no good? There is one for sale near me for 350? It also comes with stock pistons. Bad idea to just use one of them and put it back together? A guy also has a used set of turbo pistons that he made 10 passes on but he is asking 475 can almost get a new set for that though. The motor also had no spacer in it. Would it be worth it so put one in?

Are these stock injectors? I tried searching the numbers on them but couldn’t find anything. I was thinking it has s2000 injectors because the fuel pressure at idle was set to 30 but now I have no idea.

Anyone know where to get a rebuild kit for a beji fmu? It seems they’re no longer available?

Just random thoughts for now as I just got it apart I’ll post again tomorrow probably with more questions haha

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Hi. My turbo pistons were $700.00. Make sure the used block is good. I played $1400.00 for a custom set of Carrillo rods. They are good for 1000HP. I have over $20,000.00 in my motor alone. I also have over $15,000.00 in my turbo system. Also about $7,000.00 in my stand alone MAXC ECU. Plus a lot more.

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Looks exactly like mine when it popped. You’ll either have to get it bored out and re-plated. Or get another block. I went with +2mm je’s and millennium technologies did my plating. Remember these blocks have a silicon nitride coating applied on the cylinders.

On the idea of tossing in a used piston in a different used block. In general if you were just splitting the cases to do a rebuild you’d want to match the pistons to the cylinder you took them from. Therefore taking a piston from another motor and throwing it in might not be ideal. In all honesty you could do it and be fine but you’re taking about a turbo motor. That used block and pistons could work tho. Ideally spacer and turbo pistons are where you should go with this.

Those are stock injectors as far as I can see. S2000s are drop ins but I’m not sure if there are markings to differentiate from our stock injectors.

Guaranteed you have bent valves on that head. All of that force and metal bouncing around definitely damaged them. I thought I was gonna be able to rebuild without it but I ended up doing a whole head rebuild. You might be able to pull the bad valves and inspect the valve seats to determine if they are ok. Most likely they are not.

Again this is just my opinion. You could go the cheap route and risk it blowing again or go hard and prevent it from happening.

Digging this rebuild thread man, good luck. Again, my motor is going to be going up for sale……
 
Michael’s been waiting to take this thread over. He wants us to know how much he’s spending too apparently.
Hi. Just trying to point out that a turbo build is not cheap to do. It has been a huge commitment for me as it is been going on for over 5 years. If I had $100,000.00 up front it would have been maybe 1 1/2 to 2 years as many parts have been custom built. I am taking this build to the far end as I am trying to set LSR speed records and keep it a street bike too. This will be my last build too as I will be 74 next year.
 
Hi. Just trying to point out that a turbo build is not cheap to do. It has been a huge commitment for me as it is been going on for over 5 years. If I had $100,000.00 up front it would have been maybe 1 1/2 to 2 years as many parts have been custom built. I am taking this build to the far end as I am trying to set LSR speed records and keep it a street bike too. This will be my last build too as I will be 74 next year.
He’s a good sport too. Looking good Mike, lots of choice parts you have.
 
Hi. Just trying to point out that a turbo build is not cheap to do. It has been a huge commitment for me as it is been going on for over 5 years. If I had $100,000.00 up front it would have been maybe 1 1/2 to 2 years as many parts have been custom built. I am taking this build to the far end as I am trying to set LSR speed records and keep it a street bike too. This will be my last build too as I will be 74 next year.
Wow you have beautiful parts on your bike! i wish i had that kinda cash to rebuild mine lol.
Looks exactly like mine when it popped. You’ll either have to get it bored out and re-plated. Or get another block. I went with +2mm je’s and millennium technologies did my plating. Remember these blocks have a silicon nitride coating applied on the cylinders.

On the idea of tossing in a used piston in a different used block. In general if you were just splitting the cases to do a rebuild you’d want to match the pistons to the cylinder you took them from. Therefore taking a piston from another motor and throwing it in might not be ideal. In all honesty you could do it and be fine but you’re taking about a turbo motor. That used block and pistons could work tho. Ideally spacer and turbo pistons are where you should go with this.

Those are stock injectors as far as I can see. S2000s are drop ins but I’m not sure if there are markings to differentiate from our stock injectors.

Guaranteed you have bent valves on that head. All of that force and metal bouncing around definitely damaged them. I thought I was gonna be able to rebuild without it but I ended up doing a whole head rebuild. You might be able to pull the bad valves and inspect the valve seats to determine if they are ok. Most likely they are not.

Again this is just my opinion. You could go the cheap route and risk it blowing again or go hard and prevent it from happening.

Digging this rebuild thread man, good luck. Again, my motor is going to be going up for sale……
I actually seem to have gotten quite lucky on the valves. I stripped the head down and am going through it right now cleaning all the valves. None are bent and all are clean up very nice, including the ones from the bad cyl. Once i get them all cleaned i will lap them and check their seals.

I found a guy that builds hayabusa motors on facebook and will be buying a block from him in the next few days hopefully for only 150 plus shipping. and i could get a set of used pistons too from him for another 100 or upgrade to used turbo pistons. not sure yet.

If i upgrade to the turbo pistons and or a spacer do i have to get adj cam gears? Ive read a few threads and i belive that is the case but figured id ask.

Ill post some pics of the valves and whatnot later tonight
 
If your down that far do the roller chain cam conversion. I would advise turbo pistons. Alot depends on the power you want. Michael went extreme and apparently has a tone of money to throw around. If your like my case, common sense and a budget are a reality. My build made 270 hp and is bullet proof on premium pump gas. Feel free to check it out.
 
Hi. My turbo pistons were $700.00. Make sure the used block is good. I played $1400.00 for a custom set of Carrillo rods. They are good for 1000HP. I have over $20,000.00 in my motor alone. I also have over $15,000.00 in my turbo system. Also about $7,000.00 in my stand alone MAXC ECU. Plus a lot more.

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Not gonna lie. Those pistons look beautiful!
 
Here’s some of the pics that I said I would upload. Just some before and after of the valves. Going to get them all lapped tonight and hopefully that all goes we’ll and I can put the head back together. Then on to ordering parts. Anyone have a good source for a gasket set? It appears that for a gasket set with base spacer head gasket and valve cover gasket it’ll be around 250 from Schnitz. Or anybody on the site able to get a better price

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What’d u clean the valves with?
Taped the ends with some blue tape. Chucked them in a drill and used red scotch brite with some brake cleaner. Worked great. I cleaned them up more than the pics show just didn’t take anymore pics at the time. Some ppl polish them with sand paper after but I didn’t feel that was needed and that seems like a good way to mess the valve seats up.
 
Order all of my parts today. Used block, used stock pistons, new gasket set all around and a base spacer. It’s not the ideal set of parts but they were within budget and stock pistons and rods make the power I’m looking for for now. I will be advancing the cam chain gear 5 teeth to adj the timing to close to stock based off an old write up I found. And I will be opening the ring gaps up a little based based off of things I’ve seen boost cycle pref do when he’s done stock pistons stuff. I also order a tiger racing 3 gauge mount so I will actually be able to see Tammy gauges. Right now it has boost and fuel but their location is terrible and unseeable when riding. They’re mounted in the (idk the technical term) black plastic the surround the fork but like in front of the handle bars. I will be adding a afr gauge to go with the boost and fuel pressure.
 
Order all of my parts today. Used block, used stock pistons, new gasket set all around and a base spacer. It’s not the ideal set of parts but they were within budget and stock pistons and rods make the power I’m looking for for now. I will be advancing the cam chain gear 5 teeth to adj the timing to close to stock based off an old write up I found. And I will be opening the ring gaps up a little based based off of things I’ve seen boost cycle pref do when he’s done stock pistons stuff. I also order a tiger racing 3 gauge mount so I will actually be able to see Tammy gauges. Right now it has boost and fuel but their location is terrible and unseeable when riding. They’re mounted in the (idk the technical term) black plastic the surround the fork but like in front of the handle bars. I will be adding a afr gauge to go with the boost and fuel pressure.
I would never just move my cam chain "a number of teeth"
spend the extra couple bucks and put adjustable cam sprokets on it
WAYYYYYY Cheaper than rebuilding it again when the valves hit
 
I belie
I would never just move my cam chain "a number of teeth"
spend the extra couple bucks and put adjustable cam sprokets on it
WAYYYYYY Cheaper than rebuilding it again when the valves hit
Ve this was the was my was done also, if I remember right it was sorta popular to do wayyyy back in the day on turbo busas. Ok maybe not popular but similar to an begi fmu to 1 to 1 regulator.
 
I would never just move my cam chain "a number of teeth"
spend the extra couple bucks and put adjustable cam sprokets on it
WAYYYYYY Cheaper than rebuilding it again when the valves hit
Here is a link to a thread here that has a good link to the math and whatnot behind it. It’s not just a random guess as it may have sounded lol. And I will still check it with a degree wheel.
Click me
 
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