I had Pro Pilot Suspension in New Jersey do the forks, and they're valving and springing the rear to match the fronts. Not sure on the specs, but I was very happy with the forks so I feel pretty confident about them.
Time for a little suspension debate!
- Thread starter Tufbusa
- Start date
I had Pro Pilot Suspension in New Jersey do the forks, and they're valving and springing the rear to match the fronts. Not sure on the specs, but I was very happy with the forks so I feel pretty confident about them.
I am 240lbs... I found this to be my problem up on the tighter corners at speed.. if I did not "pre-compress" the front suspension, I found myself waiting for the bike to turn in as the front did compress (a long ways).. I found that by setting some front brake into the bike just prior to turn in, the bike would respond a lot better.. was annoying and scary at the same time.. after the spring and valve work, all I had to worry about was entry speed (which went up btw) without waiting for the front to finish caving in..
Steven,
You bastid
it's Monday and my brain is taking a day off...and you bring up all this suspension crap 
Aren't we supposed to just pin the throttle and then worry about the turn when we get there ???
I'll bookmark this and make some comments L8tr
You bastid
it's Monday and my brain is taking a day off...and you bring up all this suspension crap Aren't we supposed to just pin the throttle and then worry about the turn when we get there ???
I'll bookmark this and make some comments L8tr
Steven,
You bastid
Aren't we supposed to just pin the throttle and then worry about the turn when we get there ???
I'll bookmark this and make some comments L8tr
Rich, you keep your silly arsed comments to yore-self!
You know all this sheitz already so you have a two day waiting period before you can post!
Fork re-spring with .95 Race Techs. Got a set of +1" links but have never put them on.
Bout it.
Bout it.
Steven and Rich, you guys are funny.
OK, I weigh 240, ride hard...so stock felt like I was on a Harley bagger in twisties.
I wanted to go to gold front tubes (from silver) so I bought a used set of golds, AND a used rear shock....then had Race Tech blow em both out (Gold valves, springs, fluid, etc.). It truly was a different scooter after that.
Also, two important things...had a good conversation with Race Tech tech guy(to determine spring poundage, etc.), THEN had the suspension expert at the track dial the bike in (after he watched me ride first...I highly recommend this step). Doyle
OK, I weigh 240, ride hard...so stock felt like I was on a Harley bagger in twisties.
I wanted to go to gold front tubes (from silver) so I bought a used set of golds, AND a used rear shock....then had Race Tech blow em both out (Gold valves, springs, fluid, etc.). It truly was a different scooter after that.
Also, two important things...had a good conversation with Race Tech tech guy(to determine spring poundage, etc.), THEN had the suspension expert at the track dial the bike in (after he watched me ride first...I highly recommend this step). Doyle
Without writing out a lengthy post as to why, it is my belief that if you are 200 lbs or less, the stock suspension if set up properly will work as well as the best Ohlins suspension until you reach a skill level that will put you in the "A" group at the track.
These are signs to look for as to when you are ready for suspension improvements!
If you do three consecutive track days in group "B" and never get passed, you are ready for a suspension up grade.
If you are in the "A" group and keep more than six guys with number plates behind you, you are ready for a suspension up grade.
The point I'm making is, if you are riding in group B or C, you are not over working your stock suspension. As long as you are not outriding your stock suspension, better suspension is not going to make you a better rider. The key here is to have your suspension fine tuned and you'll be surprised at how fast you can become without spending a ton of money on the aftermarket goodies. Springs are the exception. You cannot adjust your spring tension and they must be changed if you are under sprung with OEM springs.
I've got broad shoulders so you suspension Guru's flame away, I can take it
These are signs to look for as to when you are ready for suspension improvements!
If you do three consecutive track days in group "B" and never get passed, you are ready for a suspension up grade.
If you are in the "A" group and keep more than six guys with number plates behind you, you are ready for a suspension up grade.
The point I'm making is, if you are riding in group B or C, you are not over working your stock suspension. As long as you are not outriding your stock suspension, better suspension is not going to make you a better rider. The key here is to have your suspension fine tuned and you'll be surprised at how fast you can become without spending a ton of money on the aftermarket goodies. Springs are the exception. You cannot adjust your spring tension and they must be changed if you are under sprung with OEM springs.
I've got broad shoulders so you suspension Guru's flame away, I can take it
I only have two things to say:
1. The video link about how to adjust your suspension was fascinating!
2. WHO am I going to get to do this for ME....
I am pretty sure my bike is set to stock. I sure hope so, the first owner was a semi-pro football player and outweighed me by a hundred pounds....but he only had it for about 2 months and don't think he touched it.
1. The video link about how to adjust your suspension was fascinating!
2. WHO am I going to get to do this for ME....
I am pretty sure my bike is set to stock. I sure hope so, the first owner was a semi-pro football player and outweighed me by a hundred pounds....but he only had it for about 2 months and don't think he touched it.
S-R Racing
Registered
Without writing out a lengthy post as to why, it is my belief that if you are 200 lbs or less, the stock suspension if set up properly will work as well as the best Ohlins suspension until you reach a skill level that will put you in the "A" group at the track.
These are signs to look for as to when you are ready for suspension improvements!
If you do three consecutive track days in group "B" and never get passed, you are ready for a suspension up grade.
If you are in the "A" group and keep more than six guys with number plates behind you, you are ready for a suspension up grade.
The point I'm making is, if you are riding in group B or C, you are not over working your stock suspension. As long as you are not outriding your stock suspension, better suspension is not going to make you a better rider. The key here is to have your suspension fine tuned and you'll be surprised at how fast you can become without spending a ton of money on the aftermarket goodies. Springs are the exception. You cannot adjust your spring tension and they must be changed if you are under sprung with OEM springs.
I've got broad shoulders so you suspension Guru's flame away, I can take it
BanditKing
Registered
my subpar stock suspension has been sorted
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I am so jealous.
On a more personal note, I got Racetech Springs for my weight (used their online calculator) front and back, and have somewhat regretted it.
I used to enjoy the Busa's ride (with Jinkster's set-up. The stock setting was too plush). With stiffer (street, not race) spring set up, the ride became far more harsh, to the point where my front wheel would chatter on some of the back roads I normally enjoyed and thought of as smooth. Almost caused me to crash on one occasion (too much wheel chatter and hop as I banked hard into a corner and almost went too wide) and bounced me off the seat on another (an expansion joint in a curved bridge, where the joint was at the bottom of a broad v-shaped depression in the road).
I had to adjust the rebound damping WAY up and the compression damping way down to the point where the local suspension guys say that my set-up is not right.
I should have just taken the Busa to a suspension specialist first, rather than buying the springs online and just having my mechanic drop them in.
BTW, the set-up as is works great on a track, but I do mostly spirited suburb, freeway and back roads riding, where suspension compliance is more important than razor sharp handling.
I didn't read through the thread but I'd probably say the same thing anyway. I didn't know I needed it until I did it.
Now, I'd never go back.
Used RaceTech, front and rear and the bike is like riding a new bike. Rides more like the Gixxer 1000 now. Not exactly the same but damn close.
If you don't do it, you may never miss it but if you do do it, you'll wonder how you lived without it!
--Wag--
Now, I'd never go back.
Used RaceTech, front and rear and the bike is like riding a new bike. Rides more like the Gixxer 1000 now. Not exactly the same but damn close.
If you don't do it, you may never miss it but if you do do it, you'll wonder how you lived without it!
--Wag--
at 180lbs even without gear I couldn't get my sag set at a good range. ???
What was your target sag number?
Your chosen sag number is not as important as knowing if your forks are bottoming out. Everyone should do the old "Zip Tie" trick on the fork tube. Tells you exactly what your springs are doing before buying new ones.
This is a good read!!! And I enjoyed the posted video! I wonder how far off I am off the stock 08 spring rates. I weigh in 180-5lbs with gear. I want to get the bike riding better before I swap out the parts for front forks and rear shock. I did go up +1 in the rear and to a larger diameter tire. I am hoping this will put more bite in the front end that I felt like I was missing!
Books are written on this subject, as I read old (and informative) posts a thought occured to me. The best suspensions are ADJUSTABLE suspensions. Alot of posts, including some of my own, speak as though once your bike is "dialed in", you can just leave it that way and enjoy. For the most part, that's true (getting it into the acceptable range of operation)BUT there is a reason that the more premium the unit, the more adjustable it is (now you can reach down while riding and adjust the new rear Ohlins unit). For example, the adjustments I use on a given track are quite different than a week long tour over various terrain (spring preload, rebound, etc). I've left my suspension "dialed up" from a track and gone on a Sunday morning breakfast ride....and it was actually painful! I guess the message is....the more you change and adjust your suspension for your RANGE of riding styles, coupled with the more you know about how to adjust it for a particular use....the more you will enjoy your Hayabusa! Raydog
Uh....the old "zip tie trick'??
zip tie around fork tube to see how far you are compressing front end.. outer tube pushes zip tie down on inner tube
I get it, zip tie slides down as you ride, to the lowest point your fork compressed during the ride...see there, learn something new every day!
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