tighten chain
- Thread starter agentadam
- Start date
If it needs adjusting just go ahead and do it. Check it before and after every ride. At some point when you think you have adjusted it too far measure it to see if it is still in spec.
I lube mine after every ride while the chain is still warm. I clean it when it looks dirty.
I lube mine after every ride while the chain is still warm. I clean it when it looks dirty.
O Holy P
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For chain stretch check, count from the master link to 21 pitches out (each rivet) and it should be at or shorter than 12.57". I used a sharpie to mark my #21 for future checking. 
For tension, take a tape measure, and with the bike on the side stand and your tape measure stationary, push down on the chain...note the measurement from 0. Then release. Push up on the chain, note the measurement. Add these two together and it should be between .8 & 1.3" roughly. If it is in that area then the tension is good! Also, don't refer to the reference marks when adjusting, I found mine were very unreliable. Measure from the swing-arm pivot to the back of the block on both sides to keep the wheel straight. I used a tape measure, or you can use string or whatever...
Also for simplicity you can flip the axle so that the adjuster castle nut is on the right side of the bike instead of the left. This way when you tighten it back down you're pressing against the adjuster jam nuts and the tension will remain the same as you set it. Versus it being on the left and tightening the nut and pulling away, therefor, tightening the chain undesirably.
One thing I did to make things easier on myself is I went to Ace Hardware and picked up a stainless latch pin (hood type pin) to put through the axle to act as the cotter pin. It's removable and reusable.
For tension, take a tape measure, and with the bike on the side stand and your tape measure stationary, push down on the chain...note the measurement from 0. Then release. Push up on the chain, note the measurement. Add these two together and it should be between .8 & 1.3" roughly. If it is in that area then the tension is good! Also, don't refer to the reference marks when adjusting, I found mine were very unreliable. Measure from the swing-arm pivot to the back of the block on both sides to keep the wheel straight. I used a tape measure, or you can use string or whatever...Also for simplicity you can flip the axle so that the adjuster castle nut is on the right side of the bike instead of the left. This way when you tighten it back down you're pressing against the adjuster jam nuts and the tension will remain the same as you set it. Versus it being on the left and tightening the nut and pulling away, therefor, tightening the chain undesirably.
One thing I did to make things easier on myself is I went to Ace Hardware and picked up a stainless latch pin (hood type pin) to put through the axle to act as the cotter pin. It's removable and reusable.
rusheriv
Registered
Good tips there Holy P.
Definitely wanna have at least an inch of slack in the chain after tightening. And you definitely want to keep it clean and lubed. A dirty unlubed chain will prematurely wear out your sprockets and stretch the chain. A can of lube is a lot cheaper than a new chain and sprockets!
Definitely wanna have at least an inch of slack in the chain after tightening. And you definitely want to keep it clean and lubed. A dirty unlubed chain will prematurely wear out your sprockets and stretch the chain. A can of lube is a lot cheaper than a new chain and sprockets!
I know it needs tightened by now. The adjustment marks aren't even even from the factory so i know they cant reliable. I was thinking about just adjusting each side 1/4 turn at a time too keep them even.
I don't dog my bike so i shouldn't have to worry about the chain being stretched over spec just yet but thanks for all of the tips.
I don't dog my bike so i shouldn't have to worry about the chain being stretched over spec just yet but thanks for all of the tips.
Greenbean
Registered
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