Thoughts on swingarm,lowering, tuning , full exhaust

Boosted Cycle Performance, without question. Not only is he a sponsor, he is always willing to provide help and advice for us here at no charge. Whenever anyone is in need of a service he provides, he is the go to. Send it to him, you won't regret it.
Site is kinda weird . What’s his username here ?
 
View attachment 1610626

On a gen 2 if you lower the front 1 inch, and lower the back so the bike sits just about level, the ABSOLUTE max you’ll want to go is 4” over. Any longer if you’re a heavy hitter, or like to ride with a passenger you’ll be smashing the tire in to the taillight over larger bumps.

Of course you’ll need to use a tiger tail, or one of my Street/racer inner fender/under tail.
Site is kinda weird . What’s his username here ?


Um.....
Maybe re read a little may help...:D
 
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View attachment 1610626

On a gen 2 if you lower the front 1 inch, and lower the back so the bike sits just about level, the ABSOLUTE max you’ll want to go is 4” over. Any longer if you’re a heavy hitter, or like to ride with a passenger you’ll be smashing the tire in to the taillight over larger bumps.

Of course you’ll need to use a tiger tail, or one of my Street/racer inner fender/under tail.
Can you send me some info on you tuning my ECU
 
$115 bucks cheaper than the ones you’re showing - I just installed them myself (not affiliated in any way) and am totally pleased.
1610673
 
If you like the look of a lowered busa with extended swing arm and cornering isn't a big deal, go for it!!

I'd go the opposite if I wanted a change in bike geometry: Minimumum wheelbase, big rear sprocket, raise the tail with a tall tire or raising links.

Actually, I think the stock busa is set up perfectly for what it does best and that is out and out SPEED!

Drop some weight and might as well tune for that pipe. Go fast!
 
Hi, Mine is lowered 2 inches in front and 3 inches in the rear, I did it internally with the front suspension and a Penske 1 inch shorter shock with a 750 lbs titanium spring and rear adjustable lowering links.View attachment 1612086

yes i believe in you
but
i guess you did the hard lowering for dragracing - there i think it helps a lot.

a real good friend did so too and he made the quarter mile in a bit less than 9 secs with his german street legal busa.

@Jgarcia6988

but for street use michael´s lowering would be too much in front
and in rear the rear as well
lowering all ver the bike is counter productive at steering / rounding country road corners
furthermore, the ground clearance decreases to such an extent that even with the slightest inclination your footrests will touch the ground.
by this an accident most probably occurs.

and

dog bones at more than $74 ?

damn, are they made of gold or what?
(here in germany they sell such pairs for 30-35 € + p n p

make em yourself.

what u need is a table drilling maschine
a steel driller, dia 12 mm
an inch ruler with mm also
an EN WA 6060 alu plate 30 wide, 7 thick
hammer and a center punch
1-hand-grinding machine for cutting
costs - not more than 10-15$, i guess and one hour for work

remember the swingarm´s transmission ratio of 1:3
a 5 mm changing of the dog bones´ holes distance causes
more -> lowering 15 mm
less -> rising 15 mm

and have a look at "Wilbers" homepage - they recommend as a maximum for street use
in front 15 mm lower
in rear 30 mm higher
 
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Hi, Mine is lowered 2 inches in front and 3 inches in the rear, I did it internally with the front suspension and a Penske 1 inch shorter shock with a 750 lbs titanium spring and rear adjustable lowering links.View attachment 1612086

michael?
how did you get the pump-bodies in that color (like levers) ?
anodised ?
and if yes how did you ensure that only their outer surface was colored
and inside not ?

i think it should look damn good if i had e.g. my (radial) pumps in that blue my ´00 busa has (origin) at its fairings etc.
 
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