The physics of cornering...

Spike

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Another stupid question if I may?

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So when cornering I know there is a degree of physics involved that states something along the lines of "the tighter the turn the more you need to lean the more acceleration(force) you need to create to counter the lean." Pardon my laymans terms.

So as far as gearing and acceleration are concerned I have a fairly simple question. To get used to cornering/turns you of course need to navigate them. When you turn a 90 degree turn (right angle) what gear is generally used? How fast should I anticipate being able to make a 90 degree turn? I am not a speed demon by any STRETCH of the imagination, it is more for safety and curiousities sake.

I am pushing this bike as hard as I am comfortable doing but it just keeps taking everything I dish out. I just don't want to push it too far. I am starting to get more comfortable with this thing and am starting top ride it better I think. HOO Boy is this thing fun!

Thanks!
Spike
 
Nick Ienatsch Sport Riding Tech. is a good read. Not Busa specific, but lots of valuable info.
He gets into lean angles/braking and accel points, etc.
 
Also check out “A twist of the wrist" by Keith Code. I can take 90 deg intersections at 45-50 but there are a LOT of variables!
 
(Gunnybusa @ Oct. 18 2006,14:28) Also check out “A twist of the wrist" by Keith Code. I can take 90 deg intersections at 45-50 but there are a LOT of variables!
Yeah...like school children.
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(Devil Dog @ Oct. 18 2006,14:30)
(Gunnybusa @ Oct. 18 2006,14:28) Also check out “A twist of the wrist" by Keith Code. I can take 90 deg intersections at 45-50 but there are a LOT of variables!
Yeah...like school children.  
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Their not so bad but that chick with the sign can be a real byotch!
 
it all depends on how wide the road is; debree... debri... shid in the road; and your skill.

Basicly, the bike can probably take whatever you throw at it... but can YOU take it?
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you talking a square intersection turn or a sweeping tight right? I've taken square intersection turns in 1st, 2nd and 3rd - 3rd was too boggy at my slow in town speed, 2nd was smooth and I leaned hard to take it as fast as I could for fun before noticing the cop sitting in the other oncoming stop light...
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and first is ALWAYS acceptable up to about 75mph but for ME 1st is SOOOO twitchy I'd prefer 2nd unless I am starting from a stop.

and if you can take a right hander square intersection turn at 75mph you are more a man than I
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my two cents, but I am not a Suzuki Engineer
 
(WWJD @ Oct. 18 2006,17:57) you talking a square intersection turn or a sweeping tight right?  I've taken square intersection turns in 1st, 2nd and 3rd - 3rd was too boggy at my slow in town speed, 2nd was smooth and I leaned hard to take it as fast as I could for fun before noticing the cop sitting in the other oncoming stop light...  
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 and first is ALWAYS acceptable up to about 75mph but for ME 1st is SOOOO twitchy I'd prefer 2nd unless I am starting from a stop.

and if you can take a right hander square intersection turn at 75mph you are more a man than I    
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my two cents, but I am not a Suzuki Engineer
So... when railing in town... What tire pressures do you use?
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(yamahor @ Oct. 18 2006,14:59)
(WWJD @ Oct. 18 2006,17:57) you talking a square intersection turn or a sweeping tight right?  I've taken square intersection turns in 1st, 2nd and 3rd - 3rd was too boggy at my slow in town speed, 2nd was smooth and I leaned hard to take it as fast as I could for fun before noticing the cop sitting in the other oncoming stop light...  
wow.gif
 and first is ALWAYS acceptable up to about 75mph but for ME 1st is SOOOO twitchy I'd prefer 2nd unless I am starting from a stop.

and if you can take a right hander square intersection turn at 75mph you are more a man than I    
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my two cents, but I am not a Suzuki Engineer
So... when railing in town... What tire pressures do you use?
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Does it make a difference if you have summer or winter air in your tires?
 
(GSXcite @ Oct. 18 2006,18:12)
(yamahor @ Oct. 18 2006,14:59)
(WWJD @ Oct. 18 2006,17:57) you talking a square intersection turn or a sweeping tight right?  I've taken square intersection turns in 1st, 2nd and 3rd - 3rd was too boggy at my slow in town speed, 2nd was smooth and I leaned hard to take it as fast as I could for fun before noticing the cop sitting in the other oncoming stop light...  
wow.gif
 and first is ALWAYS acceptable up to about 75mph but for ME 1st is SOOOO twitchy I'd prefer 2nd unless I am starting from a stop.

and if you can take a right hander square intersection turn at 75mph you are more a man than I    
bowdown.gif


my two cents, but I am not a Suzuki Engineer
So... when railing in town... What tire pressures do you use?
tounge.gif
jump9.gif
 Does it make a difference if you have summer or winter air in your tires?
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I never thought of that one...
 
Ok just got back from Barnes and Noble. I bought "Twist of the Wrist" and "Sport Riding Techniques." Looks like some good stuff. We will see how this goes.

Thanks everyone, this steers me in the right direction.

Oh, and I have Autumn air in my tires. Is that ok?
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(Spike @ Oct. 18 2006,18:22) Ok just got back from Barnes and Noble.  I bought "Twist of the Wrist" and "Sport Riding Techniques."  Looks like some good stuff.  We will see how this goes.  

Thanks everyone, this steers me in the right direction.

Oh, and I have Autumn air in my tires.  Is that ok?  
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GREAT books... read them, LIVE them... Those books tought me ALOT about how to ride properly (of course, I have 4-5 books on riding techniques)


As for the Autumn air, you should be okay... but take it to the dealer and have it changed SOON! Also, make sure they check your blinker fluid and muffler bearings.
 
(yamahor @ Oct. 18 2006,15:24) As for the Autumn air, you should be okay... but take it to the dealer and have it changed SOON! Also, make sure they check your blinker fluid and muffler bearings.
Will do!

Whew, thanks! You may have saved my derriere! I called the dealer. They want $150 for the blinker fluid change but they said my muffler bearings should be good for another 500 miles. That price sound ok?
 
(Spike @ Oct. 18 2006,18:28)
(yamahor @ Oct. 18 2006,15:24) As for the Autumn air, you should be okay... but take it to the dealer and have it changed SOON! Also, make sure they check your blinker fluid and muffler bearings.
Will do!  

Whew, thanks!  You may have saved my derriere!  I called the dealer.  They want $150 for the blinker fluid change but they said my muffler bearings should be good for another 500 miles.  That price sound ok?
WOW!!! My local shop charged $350 to change the blinker fluid! You're getting a DEAL!!
 
(Spike @ Oct. 18 2006,17:28)
(yamahor @ Oct. 18 2006,15:24) As for the Autumn air, you should be okay... but take it to the dealer and have it changed SOON! Also, make sure they check your blinker fluid and muffler bearings.
Will do!  

Whew, thanks!  You may have saved my derriere!  I called the dealer.  They want $150 for the blinker fluid change but they said my muffler bearings should be good for another 500 miles.  That price sound ok?
$150 is too low. Make sure they use only a high quality synthetic blinker fluid.
 
I think I got ripped off! Last time I had by blinker fluid changed, I did not believe the dealership actually did anything. I asked for the old blinker fluid to verify something was done, and they told me they threw it away and the trash man already picked it up! I still can't verify they changed anything.
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normally?...i'd never under-estimate the power of educating ones self...but reading is reading and you can buy all the books barnes and noble are willing to order up for you and it isn't gonna make you any faster or safer until you...."Gain The Practical Experience"....through..."Practice, Practice, Practice".

and here's some tips that will help get you there quicker..

1st?...ya gotta rid yerself of "The Head Demons"...you know...all those little voices of fear that keep telling you are going to fall over....while all the while your tires are sport'in chicken strips that would make colonel sanders jealous...instead?..use those chicken strips as a barometer to measure your continued success..as you...

2. Find a remote, safe paved area in which to practice...then set yourself up a slalom course...(hint: those 16 oz RED plastic cups with a little dirt in'em are cheap and work great)...and then?....

3. Learn how to become "SMOOTH" with all your inputs...as follows..

a. "Stay a gear tall"...this will keep your revs down and greatly reduce the "ON/OFF" throttle characteristics and help you to keep your throttle control "Smooth".

b. "Commit to a gear"...BEFORE...you make your corner entrance...and as stated in "a." above?...stay a gear tall...for instance?....i like to engine brake on the approach and continuously downshift until i hit the desired speed and revs...trying to keep "The Entrance Revs" between 3,000-5,000rpms...by ear...and at this point if you think your still entering a curve a tad too hot?...thats what the front brake is for...sorta like a "FailSafe Back-Up System" for errors in judging entrance speed..but you commit to that gear so that as soon as you toss the bike over?..you remain "On The Throttle and Under Smooth Steady Power"...so as not to upset the chassis with any harsh inputs of any kind...braking or throttle...and the beauty of the busa is the fact that because it has so much torque?...it's very forgiving and will still power you out of even a 2,500rpm rev and carry you clean through...very forgiving..but maintaining 4K rpms at entrance seems like it's sweet spot in most cases.

3rdly?..."Don't Over-Steer"...if you find that you're having to put a lot of effort into counter-steering?...chances are you're not leaning enough with your hips and shoulders...(most likely the works of the head lean demons you haven't fully exorcised yet
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) and you're using the steering to force the bike over...don't do that....the busa is very neutral steering..and with proper rider weight placement (press down with the foot, swing the hips out and dip the shoulder into the turn) the busa just about steers itself through a lean..as you let the tire profiles "Find Their Own Home" with very little if any steering input so to speak and just give the busa it's head...cause if you're fighting it?...the only thing you're fighting with is yourself.

4th?...There's an advanced technic known as "Trail-Braking"...and it does help settle the bikes chassis by applying very slight pressure to the front and rear brakes...just prior to throwing the bike over into the corner entrance...what this achieves is a very slight compression of the suspension which makes the bikes chassis a tad more settled and stable for more aggressive riders who enter deep before violently tossing the bike over...neither is for the faint of heart and are advanced rider technics..first get smooth then experiment with deeper entrances and trail braking.

also...pending your own personal experience?...don't do a lot of hanging off and weight shifting at first...as the first thing you wanna achieve is smooth control via tranny management, brake, throttle and steering inputs...and you'll be amazed at just how much of those chicken strips can be gone riding with your azz planted...cause there's only one way to eat an elephant...one bite at a time..and...

L8R, Bill.
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Bill, One of these days I'm gonna need to take a weekend ride with ya and actually learn how to corner. My chicken strips are 3/4 of an inch wide each side and it's almost embarassing! in the meantime I'm gonna print, memorize and practice ...
 
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