The new API CJ-4 service rated 15w-40s

mountainmotor

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There is a new API category for diesel engine oils that have hit the market . These oils replaced the previous API CI-4 and CI-4 + service categories and the links I'm posting will fill you in on the why's of the reduced ash , phosforus and sulphur content in these new oils .

The base oils used in the new category should be superior to past formulations and carry a higher NOAK " reduced volatile burn off " because some of the new diesel engines using these oils will be see'ing oil sump temps increased by up to 50F . So much that engine seals and materials used have been redesigned for some engine series .

Since the anti-wear additive phosforus will be reduced to aid in longetivity of the afterburn devices and since zinc " anti-wear additive " is combined with phos there has been some concern as to if these new oils will provide adequate cam lobe , piston scuff and other protection in a high performance gasoline engine . Now to get to the point , I believe most of these oils will be better than ever in both wear protection and keeping the piston ring belt clean and here's why .

The CI-4 Plus oils had the below as typical amounts ;

Phosforus .12-.15 percent by weight
Sulphur .5
Sulphated Ash 1.2-1.6

an oil like the above would have had around 1250-1550 parts per million phosforus and 1350 - 1650 PPM zinc

The new CJ-4 oils will have max allowable ;

Phosforus .12
Sulphur .4
Sulphated Ash 1.0

which would equate to around 1250 PPM Phos and 1300-1350 PPM Zinc .

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/Files/Delvc_PC-10_FAQs.pdf

The older CI-4+ oils used Sulphonate detergents . Some if not most of the higher tier oils used Overbased Sulphonates like calcium and even magnesium . These type detergents have not been proven that I have seen to offer any notable secondary anti-wear protection . Take boron as example . It is a primary detergent with secondary anti-wear function . I had to get to that part to introduce the Salycilate detergents that will be used in some of these CJ-4 oils .

During testing , Salycilates in very low viscosity , low phosforus formulas have actualy outperformed the Sulphonates in anti-wear testing , even with relative large amounts of phosforus used with the Sulphonates .Some of these new oils may be using this Salycilate detergent technology . Some may be using a mix of both .

http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/report/e-report/01M445e.pdf

JASO MA motocycle oils have for some time had a phosforus cap of .12 max allowable. That alone tells us something and with the best of these new CJ-4 oils using none of the inferior Group I base oils that require addition of pour point depressants and other non anti-wear additives that fix the cloud point and this and that so these oils will most surely have a small added HT/HS " shear resistance " inherently formulated into them by virtue of blending with lighter , higher group oils which can in turn reduce the amount of viscosity index improvers that are known to shear and thin the oil. Some 15w-40's of the past would become 30wts in as little as 1500 miles because of this shear . Factor in some fuel dillution inherent with bike engines and the oil can become really thin , dangerously so . Even 10w-40 synthetics have this happen to them but there is new terminology being used as the old Viscosity Index Improvers are replaced with Viscosity Modifiers . These VM's can have primary and secondary uses in the engine oil formula as well . More function , less along for the ride sounds good to me .

CJ-4 is marking a new age in 40 weight diesel oils that can be used in gasoline engines and they will be gradually replacing the CI-4 oils over time. It might well be these oils can offer the piston ring belt cleanliness and overall protection in non racing applications of the true synthetic formulas at a current price of only 2.00 per quart . Quantative testing by seeing some lab results will help tell .

I'd be willing to offer a few free oil analysis kits to non racing Busa owners who are currently using a CI4+ HD15w-40 Fleet oils that were going to try one of the CJ-4 oils anyway . Key words there . The CJ-4 Mobil 1300S or the new CJ-4 Chevron Delo 400 , CJ-4 Castrol and or even the Motorcraft or Phillips products might be a few of the better candidates. I have a file of Hayabusa baseline oil analysis's to go by or rather , compare to .

And don't worry about the moly . JASO specs have long been mis-interpited . Motul E-Tech 100 , Mobil 10w-40 bike oil ,Amsoil 10w-40 and a host of other bike oils have it in the formula .
 
Not sure I'm with you here... Your saying some ppl actually run diesel engine oil in their bikes, and Busa's? Not knocking if they are, just never heard of this. I used to be very critical with which oils I used in my Camaro, that being mostly M1, based on the oil analysis return info provided for the LSx engine platforms, and of course advice from Patman or Bob the oil guy. Anyway, will be standing by for more info on Busa oil products.

Currently using Suzi filter, and Maxima Maxum 4 Extra 10w-40 oil. Not that visual means much if anything, but sight glass shows a nice clean looking oil after a few thousand miles. Compared to whatever was in there when I bought it with 10,000miles on it, looked like sludge.
 
(CAT3 @ Dec. 26 2006,22:14) Not sure I'm with you here...  Your saying some ppl actually run diesel engine oil in their bikes, and Busa's?  Not knocking if they are, just never heard of this.  
Yes , not only on the street but as a low cost *race oil as well . As long as it gets changed pretty often it works well but I was never too hip on the group I base oil component in some of them nor how they are built with a big base number " TBN " in mind that better enables long drains for the diesels . When I look at oils like Amsoil , well it looks more like a diesel engine oil additive pack with a bike oil label . We run gasoline last I saw  
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These new oils should look much different in terms of additive pack used . More of a modern gasoline engine formula I'd presume at this point . Time will tell though .

BTW , I  use the  Maxima synthetic also . The 15w-50 though. It's one of the absolute very best motorcycle oils IMO and if bought in 20 quart pails the cost per quart is like $5.50 or so . Good deal for multi bike owners or friends living close enough to split the price . Easy annual changes on that oil depending on usage .

*Three separate race ZX-12R's I know of have broken both stock and Carillo rods in half but the rod bearing and rod journals were A-OK . Rotella 15w-40 was in each engine at the time .
 
So whats your thoughts on using 5w40 rotella t? Thats what I am using right now. It was recomended by a few on this page. I had been using 5w30 M1 kinda to disprove the old deal about the energy conserving car oil will make your clutch slip. My experience has been that its not true. Thanks for the info on this new rating.
 
(hooken203 @ Feb. 03 2007,23:15) So whats your thoughts on using 5w40 rotella t? Thats what I am using right now. It was recomended by a few on this page. I had been using 5w30 M1 kinda to disprove the old deal about the energy conserving car oil will make your clutch slip. My experience has been that its not true. Thanks for the info on this new rating.
I used the Rotella T 5w40 with no problems before I added a turbo last spring. Since adding the turbo I've changed to Mobil 1 15w50 since it's a little thicker.
 
(hooken203 @ Feb. 04 2007,02:15) So whats your thoughts on using 5w40 rotella t? Thats what I am using right now.
I just saw this . I click new posts when I come here . Never did see .

I like the base oil compared to the other group III's. It's the XHVI from Shell . A group III fake synthetic of the second kind made from slack wax vs just a higher viscosity severely hydrocracked group II thats been taken another step . Quite certain that base , a couple esters and PAO are used in Shells F1 oils . Blending in this way makes an end product greater than one base oil by it'self .

What i don't like is it's a primary diesel oil and it's got that 5w in front of it . Sweet if they made a 20w-40 version without all the polymers that shear during service causing permanent viscosity loss " thinning " .

See these newer 10w-50's out ? They are made for an engine that needs a 40wt during the entire course of the oil interval . Most 40wts shear to 30's and a Busa can be tougher on oil than a GSXR1000 for example.
Busa's can really heat oil up .

There are some fine nectars out there  . Most made abroad though .

In general I talk perfect world . There's many oils to get the job done . Some alot better than others though  
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