The Lucy turbo build, and testing

Boosted Cycle Perf said:
Alright fellas, been tearing down and measuring engines the last few days. I spent a little time and got Lucy’s head ready. So this is kinda a down and dirty track side repair way to clean and “surface” a head.

For $5 at harbor freight, they have non abrasive cleaning wheels. The bristles are plastic and don’t dig in to the surface of the head. Start by spraying the deck of the head with brake cleaner and with a new razor blade scrape the rest of the old head gasket off. (Can do this on the cylinders too) One clean, use the non abrasive wheel to get any left over spots you couldnt get with the razor. Also, go ahead and hit the chambers.
View attachment 1618988
Once clean, wipe down again with brake clean. Then grab a known good straight edge and a flash light. This is a way to check how flat the head is. Check long ways and diagonal. Put the straight edge on the deck, and but the flash light up aginst the back of the straight edge. If you see any light coming through the front side, that’s a low spot and may require the head to be decked by a machine shop. If you pushed a head gasket, sometimes it will indent the deck of the head in which case you’ll need to have it machined.

Lucy checked out good.
View attachment 1618989

Next give it a light surfacing. I did this with some 350 grit sand paper and a machined flat piece of aluminum. This takes a little time, but we’re on a tight budget here. Wrap the sand paper around the block and run it from edge to edge long ways. Keep doing the as many times as needed until the deck surface is consistent shiny the whole way. You may notice a few low spots. Just keep going. I thought I was seeing a little low spot. A way to check that is to use machinist blue, blue sharpie... or a black sharpie works too. Paint the area and keep going over the whole head with the sanding block. If any of the blue or marker stays dark, that means there’s a low spot. But it came off evenly, so we’re good.
View attachment 1618990

View attachment 1618991

You’re done when it looks like this.
View attachment 1618992

View attachment 1618993

To finish off the head for the budget build, I swapped out the valve springs. APE 65lb dual springs.
View attachment 1618994

View attachment 1618995

And that wraps up the head. For the cost of parts, and some time, you guys can get some real nice results at home on the cheap.
Click to expand...
Are you using the 65lbs springs on the Gen II Ti valves or are you putting a set of Gen I valves in it too? Just curious.
 
c10 said:
Off topic what does the rotax super charger weight ? Don't count plenum please
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1619628


1619629


1619630


No idea, I don’t have a scale at the shop. That whole assembly feels close to the same weight as a turbo by itself.
 
Out of curiosity, what's the cost vs performance increase difference to a turbo setup? In regard a stock gen2 engine?
Ie, a stage 1 turbo setup gives x amount of increase, while a sc setup gives "y" amount but costs twice as much?
 
ottafish said:
Out of curiosity, what's the cost vs performance increase difference to a turbo setup? In regard a stock gen2 engine?
Ie, a stage 1 turbo setup gives x amount of increase, while a sc setup gives "y" amount but costs twice as much?
Click to expand...
Hi. On my set up to make about 5 times the stock HP [now this is just to make the HP not what in need to put it to the ground. All built bikes will need other parts clutch ,trans] it will be about $30,000.00 +. But that can not be done on a N/A bike for any price.
 
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