I geek out on this stuff. If someone’s interested and listening, I keep talking. If I’ve dyno tunes your bike with you there, you know what I’m talking about.
The Lucy turbo build, and testing
- Thread starter Boosted Cycle Perf
- Start date
I think it would of been “it’s not if, it’s when” scenario as far as the head gasket. Cylinder pressures are just way to high with stock compression.
I honestly think 400hp on a base spacer motor with head studs and opened up ring gaps would be pretty reliable. As I always say the tune is key to the longevity.
No meth, no intercooler, just x98 fuel. This the first bike I’ve actually logged non Intercooled intake temps. This turbo is very efficient. On a 90 degree day I can make a 3 or 4 gear pull and intake temps don’t go over 150-160 at 10psi. I know guys with 1500hp air to water set ups in cars and see close to that after a pass. So I don’t think I’m doing bad at all. It was 60 degrees in the shop and intake temps were 120-130.
future plans for Lucy? Just pistons and rods, slap it back together, keep turning the boost up.
Sign you up for...?
No, where I route the gate back in is perfect for scavenging between the two ports. The boost is actually smoother with it routed back in vs not.
If you notice the first 10 inches of tube isn’t ceramic coated. I remade the first part so there’s more fairing clearance from the tube.
If I didn’t have so much on my plate I’d do that, but I’m just foing
Personally I’d save the money and just use a base spacer over turbo pistons. Just open up the ring gaps and slam it back together with studs and good head gasket. It will live a long time with a good tune on e98.
10-4. I was just curious. I really enjoyed watching and learning from this.
I forgot to mention, or take pictures, but I pulled the plugs and they all look perfect. No signs of detonation. However I did notice that number #3 looked just a little wet. So if any, that’s the suspected cylinder.
Today if I get a few minutes, I’ll do a quick compression test to see where we’re at. Then drain the remaining water, and oil to minimize the mess when I can pull the engine.
I think I may also try a set of those $400 eBay rods for the hell of it.
Today if I get a few minutes, I’ll do a quick compression test to see where we’re at. Then drain the remaining water, and oil to minimize the mess when I can pull the engine.
I think I may also try a set of those $400 eBay rods for the hell of it.
Just thought of something...
I know stock pistons have been over 400hp before. So what about this? Try for the ultimate bottom dollar engine, and see how it responds to hitting it with 500hp?
So eBay rods, stock pistons with used gapped rings, and stock valves with hd springs. And as long as the main bearings look good, I’ll reuse those and would just have to get new bearings for the rods to get the clearance right. I’d also put main studs in it as the stock main bolts never retorque right. I think I’d also drop the compression a little. Maybe a .040 spacer. That would be low 11’s compression approximately.
I know the current turbo will touch a little over 500hp. We may just scrape by with the injectors.
I know stock pistons have been over 400hp before. So what about this? Try for the ultimate bottom dollar engine, and see how it responds to hitting it with 500hp?
So eBay rods, stock pistons with used gapped rings, and stock valves with hd springs. And as long as the main bearings look good, I’ll reuse those and would just have to get new bearings for the rods to get the clearance right. I’d also put main studs in it as the stock main bolts never retorque right. I think I’d also drop the compression a little. Maybe a .040 spacer. That would be low 11’s compression approximately.
I know the current turbo will touch a little over 500hp. We may just scrape by with the injectors.
Mr Brown
Registered
This is by far the most informative turbo conversation I've ever seen. Where were you with all this knowledge 10 years ago? You would have saved me thousands....
All jokes aside, your knowledge is impressive and your willingness to share it is greatly appreciated.
Keep on learning and teaching!
I figured the valve springs have got to be close to failure, F1 cars switched to pneumatic springs in the 80s when they introduced high boost astronomically high rpm motors, and money is no object to those programs. Maybe metal technology has advanced enough, but F1 still uses air.
Guess we'll see!
All jokes aside, your knowledge is impressive and your willingness to share it is greatly appreciated.
Keep on learning and teaching!
I figured the valve springs have got to be close to failure, F1 cars switched to pneumatic springs in the 80s when they introduced high boost astronomically high rpm motors, and money is no object to those programs. Maybe metal technology has advanced enough, but F1 still uses air.
Guess we'll see!
Mr Brown
Registered
So how much are we talking cost wise for a budget 500 build? Can't even believe I'm saying budget and 500 in the same sentence....
Ten years ago I was just barely out of diapers...This is by far the most informative turbo conversation I've ever seen. Where were you with all this knowledge 10 years ago? You would have saved me thousands....
All jokes aside, your knowledge is impressive and your willingness to share it is greatly appreciated.
Keep on learning and teaching!
I figured the valve springs have got to be close to failure, F1 cars switched to pneumatic springs in the 80s when they introduced high boost astronomically high rpm motors, and money is no object to those programs. Maybe metal technology has advanced enough, but F1 still uses air.
Guess we'll see!
Jk, I was 23. But that was right after the hay days of turbo busas when it seemed like everyone had a 600hp super ultra before the economy crashed. Back when forums were thriving and some big name racers and tuners were on. I was still learning but getting out on my own.
$400 rods
$140 head studs
$90 main studs
$70 head gasket
$30 base spacer
$120 HD valve springs
$180 adjustable cam gears
so call it $1200 for a 500hp engine... That sounds weird.
its $1300 for a set of wossner pistons and rods to put things in perspective.
$140 head studs
$90 main studs
$70 head gasket
$30 base spacer
$120 HD valve springs
$180 adjustable cam gears
so call it $1200 for a 500hp engine... That sounds weird.
its $1300 for a set of wossner pistons and rods to put things in perspective.
Lol this just sounds hilarious but it's so true.
And I bet stock pistons with a opened gap will take pretty much anything with that fuel for a 1/4 mile!!
How many miles does the scooter have on it now?
I took a few min and did a compression test.
150-155-160-160...
The stock suzuki spec is 190-230psi. Last compression test I did, all my readings were 170-180. Low, but consistent, and that’s what it’s been since I bought the bike. Thats why I always say she’s wore out. Also worth mentioning that there was no blow by out of the crankcase breather, and no coolant in the oil. But tons of e85 in the oil. So much it raised the oil level a little.
I’m a bit puzzled by the compression test readings. Yes lower, but all within an acceptable range of one another. Makes me wonder if the rods are bent a little. Sometimes a compression test won’t always show a bad head gasket though.
I did notice that the radiator cap doesn’t seem like it’s not seated well. If the cooling system isn’t pressurized properly that can cause coolant to boil over. It be funny if this was just a rad cap issue. But the engine is still going to come out as I want to investigate a few things.
150-155-160-160...
The stock suzuki spec is 190-230psi. Last compression test I did, all my readings were 170-180. Low, but consistent, and that’s what it’s been since I bought the bike. Thats why I always say she’s wore out. Also worth mentioning that there was no blow by out of the crankcase breather, and no coolant in the oil. But tons of e85 in the oil. So much it raised the oil level a little.
I’m a bit puzzled by the compression test readings. Yes lower, but all within an acceptable range of one another. Makes me wonder if the rods are bent a little. Sometimes a compression test won’t always show a bad head gasket though.
I did notice that the radiator cap doesn’t seem like it’s not seated well. If the cooling system isn’t pressurized properly that can cause coolant to boil over. It be funny if this was just a rad cap issue. But the engine is still going to come out as I want to investigate a few things.
A little over 18k now.
Here the plugs that came out. About 2k miles on them. No sign of detonation.
So I have a set of import rods on the way. A manufacturer contacted me awhile back about trying a set, so I took them up on it. The one thing I like about this manufacturers rods is there’s holes on the wrist pin bore to allow oiling from the squirters. All the rods on eBay just have one hole at the very top. Here’s one.
I’m looking forward to get my hands on them so I can weigh and measure them in comparison to a set of wossner rods.
So I have a set of import rods on the way. A manufacturer contacted me awhile back about trying a set, so I took them up on it. The one thing I like about this manufacturers rods is there’s holes on the wrist pin bore to allow oiling from the squirters. All the rods on eBay just have one hole at the very top. Here’s one.
I’m looking forward to get my hands on them so I can weigh and measure them in comparison to a set of wossner rods.
With the small engine's I work on in lawn mowers having compression releases getting an accurate compression test is hard if not impossible. Ive had to retrain myself that leak down test its the way I have to go even tho it's a much bigger pain. I can't wait to see what the insides look like once you get her torn down.
ARP 2000 bolts on the way.
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