Synthetic oil

Who said you should even use synthetic oil? I don't know about you but it just costs more money in the long run to use fully synthetic, eventhough you'll be able to put more miles on the bike in between changes...
 
Depending on HOW you break your bike in, rough or easy,, I would go anywhere from 800 to 1100 miles.
 
Well,, you have a totally different thing going with what you bought into. They will run a non-synthe every time,, unless you take them in four quarts of whatever favourite you choose. If you take in your own oil,, you are kind of defeating the purpose of that 1500 buy in.
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Recommended? No, but it does run a lot smoother with the synthetic juice over normal dino oil.

I have run Mobil 1 car oil in my Busa since new,, and always will. Gold cap for me. But whichever,, is a personal preferrance.

There will be pros and cons on car oil as opposed to specified motorcycle oil,, but the argument will always carry on, regardless. It really comes down to the different ingredients in either one (car or m/c) as to whether one of the other needs a certain additive to take car of a catalytic converter or not.
 
Ahhhh, I see...Well, thanks Cookie for going into detail with that, I am pretty confident that the Suzuki Dealership will be using what they think is best for my Busa, I'll have to find out if they will be using Synthetic or not. Apparently you think they won't be. I have to run, I need to get ready for this car sho this morning! Have a nice day!
 
No problem, Nick. You toss coins around,, whatever you find out,, if you want them to put in MOBIL or AMSOIL,, take in the four quarts and tell them to show you the empty bottles once they have finished up with your bike! Trust me,, and others here,, you WILL love it!!
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Ahhhh, I see...Well, thanks Cookie for going into detail with that, I am pretty confident that the Suzuki Dealership will be using what they think is best for my Busa, I'll have to find out if they will be using Synthetic or not. Apparently you think they won't be. I have to run, I need to get ready for this car sho this morning! Have a nice day!
THE DEALERSHIP PUTS IN WHATS "CHEAP". I would go with a specific motorcycle systhetic oil.{it runs smoother, cooler, less wear, will not break down nearly as fast, etc, etc.} With the new materials being used in modern day rings and sleevs things "seat" quickly". 500 miles then dump in the good stuff.
 
The mechanic I use is big time negative on pure synthetic when engines have roller bearings. He's a total gear head, and he's really into racing.

He recommends a synthetic blend due to pure synthetic being too slippery. Roller bearings tend to "slide" vs roll which can cause "flat spots" on the bearings.
 
SLA1500.......Your friend may be a total gear head, but not a well informed one. "roller bearings sliding"  GEEEEZ, what nonsense. He needs to get out of his garage and do some learnin'. That is some pin-headed Harley folklore, besides you aren't riding a two wheeled tractor...............

Ron
 
The mechanic I use is big time negative on pure synthetic when engines have roller bearings.  He's a total gear head, and he's really into racing.

He recommends a synthetic blend due to pure synthetic being too slippery.  Roller bearings tend to "slide" vs roll which can cause "flat spots" on the bearings.
For a second there I thought I might have been in the old school forum. I had to make sure I was still in the new age stuff. They never made a roller bearing crank for the Hayabusa.

Only thing that uses a roller bearing are your cams and transmission.
 
SLA1500.......Your friend may be a total gear head, but not a well informed one. "roller bearings sliding" GEEEEZ, what nonsense. He needs to get out of his garage and do some learnin'. That is some pin-headed Harley folklore, besides you aren't riding a two wheeled tractor...............

Ron


San "Diefo" - Just passing along what a highly credentialed motorcyle mechanic told me.

I take it you're an expert on this subject.
 
Thanks all for the good laugh. Suzuki and other bike makers don't have an oil brand, just like ingles does with its brand, they buy oil and put there logo on it. Any motor will run on dino or synthetic. I perfer synthetic because of the quality of oil. but if you want to run plain old dino oil in your busa, go for it.

I had this same little talk with the local owner of the honda dealer here in Anderson, SC. he is against synthetic and says honda is the only oil to use, yet he will sell you the blend that honda puts out. but go into his shop and there is a barrel of oil he buys local for oil changes. This is the same guy that is now an expert on dyno's because he bought one a couple months ago. just because people race or sell something does not make them an expert.

Ask BWW or Porche what they put in their engines and then you decide. Bet it ain't dino oil in those high reving engines.
 
Heres some info I found:

600 miles 5000 rpms - change oil at 600. use regular oil (not synthetic). Get a couple of good throtle twists in 1st gear up tp 5000 to seat everything.

601 - 1000 8500 RPMs After 1000, redline.

Change oil at about 1600. Use Regular oil (not Synthetic)

Change Oil at about 3000 - Use synthetic blend (Motul 10 - 40 or Castrol ACTEVO 10 - 40)

Stay with 10 - 40.

Also use 87 octane. 93 will cause you to pick up a lag.
 
Heres some info I found:

600 miles 5000 rpms - change oil at 600.  use regular oil (not synthetic).  Get a couple of good throtle twists in 1st gear up tp 5000 to seat everything.

601 - 1000 8500 RPMs  After 1000, redline.

Change oil at about 1600.  Use Regular oil (not Synthetic)

Change Oil at about 3000 - Use synthetic blend (Motul 10 - 40  or Castrol ACTEVO 10 - 40)

Stay with 10 - 40.

Also use 87 octane.  93 will cause you to pick up a lag.
87 octane? I will never put 87 octane in my busa or I might damage the engine, I hope you dident.
 
Heres some info I found:

600 miles 5000 rpms - change oil at 600.  use regular oil (not synthetic).  Get a couple of good throtle twists in 1st gear up tp 5000 to seat everything.

601 - 1000 8500 RPMs  After 1000, redline.

Change oil at about 1600.  Use Regular oil (not Synthetic)

Change Oil at about 3000 - Use synthetic blend (Motul 10 - 40  or Castrol ACTEVO 10 - 40)

Stay with 10 - 40.

Also use 87 octane.  93 will cause you to pick up a lag.
87 octane? I will never put 87 octane in my busa or I might damage the engine, I hope you dident.
+1
Where did you get this info?
K8 owners manual clearly says to use super of 91 octane or higher always!
Gen I may be different but 87 is not to be used in the Gen II!
 
way too much folklore running around. oil like tires are a personal preference mostly. I didn't pay the money I paid for this bike to skimp on the oil and hope it works out.
 
Well,, you have a totally different thing going with what you bought into. They will run a non-synthe every time,, unless you take them in four quarts of whatever favourite you choose. If you take in your own oil,, you are kind of defeating the purpose of that 1500 buy in.
sadnews.gif


Recommended? No, but it does run a lot smoother with the synthetic juice over normal dino oil.

I have run Mobil 1 car oil in my Busa since new,, and always will. Gold cap for me. But whichever,, is a personal preferrance.

There will be pros and cons on car oil as opposed to specified motorcycle oil,, but the argument will always carry on, regardless. It really comes down to the different ingredients in either one (car or m/c) as to whether one of the other needs a certain additive to take car of a catalytic converter or not.
What!
 
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