Synthetic oil

shenoyp · Mar 11, 2005

Elenor has reached 1000KM and I need to get my girl serviced. Well the here is where the doubts start.... The Manual recomends that I should be using API SF / SG rated oil. Now I have a can of Mobil 1 SuperSyn (Fully Synthatic) oil that has a API Rating of SL/SJ! This rating is obviously higher than what is recomended in the busa manual... but I want to know if by using SL/SJ rating oil, I'll end up having clutch slip or something like that

Thanks for all the help ... in advance

PACIFICBUSA · Mar 11, 2005

First off...what does 1000KM equal to?

busahaya · Mar 11, 2005

I dont think you'll have any probs, so long as the oil meets or exceeds those specified standards ste by the manufacture, Elenor should be fine.

shenoyp · Mar 11, 2005

600 Miles Pacific busa....

shenoyp · Mar 11, 2005

Miles = Kilometers / 1.6
Kilometers = Miles * 1.6

...Thats the approximate conversion

PACIFICBUSA · Mar 11, 2005

aah...I see. Thanks.

Now regarding your question...don't switch to full synthetic yet. Run her hard for another 4-600 miles...umm, 800 to 1000KM, right?....and then do the switch.

Reason being is you want your seals and shid in the engine to be properly broken in. Run her a little harder for a little longer and then switch. That way you don't waste perfectly good syn oil...

Oh yeah....and cross check the oil to the temps in your area. The hotter it is, the thicker (I think) viscosity you'll need.

Hotter temps = hotter engine.
Hotter engine = hotter runnin parts
Hotter running parts = more lubrication.
More lubrication = smoother running.
Smoother running = less engine wear
Less engine wear = longer engine life
Longer engine life = more happy miles

More happy miles = 1 happy Busa owner!

Thank you...class dismissed.

shenoyp · Mar 11, 2005

Hotter temps = hotter engine.
Hotter engine = hotter runnin parts
Hotter running parts = more lubrication.
More lubrication = smoother running.
Smoother running = less engine wear
Less engine wear = longer engine life
Longer engine life = more happy miles

More happy miles = 1 happy Busa owner! [/QUOTE]

Thats for the help Pacific... will do as per your advice

PACIFICBUSA · Mar 11, 2005

No probs, Shen....hope it helps.

Don't forget that it's real important to cross-reference the temps of your area with the oil you use. If the place is too hot and the viscosity isn't thick enough, the oil breaks down real fast. Once that happens, the metal parts in your engine will start rubbin on each other.

Not too long after that, the engine is gonna seize...and that's when it's game over. Not much can be done for the engine if that happens...

Ride hard and stay safe....

PacMan out...

shenoyp · Mar 11, 2005

I'm gonna use 5W 50 Pacificbusa... I think that should do know??? The temp here ranges between 32F - 104F so that rating should be ok no?!

oldguy · Mar 11, 2005

Because of wet clutch concerns do not use an oil with friction modifiers (usally molybdenum).

Oils that are safe to use are those with Jaso MA (Japanese wet clutch) rating and/ or Allison C4 (deisil engine oils) rating.

Many here are happy with Mobil 1 15/50 redcap car oil. Although it has changed recently to something with a gold cap. I havn't heard any reports on bikes with the new formula.

Tufbusa · Mar 11, 2005

If I were you, I'd go to my suzuki shop and pick up 10W40 suzuki oil. It's cheap and if you have a problem with your engine, suzuki won't have a problem with your choice of oil. Using other than suzuki oil during warranty "Could Possibly" give suzuki an excuse not to warranty your engine or transmission? Just my simple opinion!

tricktom1 · Mar 12, 2005

Saw on Brock's site where he said it was safe to run the mobile one car oil, any tried it?

chain · Mar 12, 2005

Mobil 1 still has the energy conserving additive package which, in theory, can cause slippage in your motorcycle's wet clutch environment. However, legion bikers use the stuff with no ill effect.

Want to save some money and put the best kept secret in your bike's crank case? Try Shell Rotella T full syn diesel truck oil. That's right, you heard me correctly. It's very popular among the LDH crowd (Long Distance Riding) and it's what I use in my bikes. Meets or exceeds spec, inexpensive too (Wal-Mart).

http://www.rotella.com/products/rotella_t_synthetic.html

Here's another bit of intel you'll want to look over.

http://www.rotella.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=81

ike · Mar 12, 2005

I use in my 2000 busa Mobil 1 fully synthetic 15w50 motor oil. So far so good. :cool:

oldguy · Mar 12, 2005

I put a 5/40 synthetic in my little gixxer last time and it made a big difference in performance and the clutch is way smoother. It's a deisel oil but is rated Jaso MA for motorcycle wet clutches.

I'm leary of using it in the summer heat though but the maker says it will perform as a 15/40 at high tempuratures.

human cannonball · Mar 12, 2005

Anybody tried the new Mobil 1 "EP" type 15W50 oil yet? I've been running the old redcap (stock bike, no mods) and have had no problems. That oil has around 60 ppm of moly in it. The new Mobil 1 15W50 has around 100 ppm of moly in it. Don't know if more moly is a good thing or not...

Lots of folks claim no trouble with the moly as far as clutches slipping, but I'm a little hesitant to try the new oil with almost double the moly of the old oil. I've got 4 quarts of the old redcap still, so I'll be good to go for the next change (which probably, unfortunately

won't be necessary until next year. Wish I could ride more...

For what it's worth, some folks who are supposedly "in the know" say that the type of moly in today's oils isn't the kind that would cause wet clutches to slip. Just not sure I want to be the guinea pig on that one.

Anyway, I've thought about giving the Shell 5W40 Rotella synthetic a try (no moly at all in that oil, according to Shell), but I was just wondering if anyone has tried the new Mobil 1 stuff yet, and how it did.

Yeah, I know. I'm looking for someone else to be the guinea pig!

HC

Glyn · Mar 12, 2005

(opdsgt @ Mar. 12 2005 said:
Mobil 1 still has the energy conserving additive package which, in theory, can cause slippage in your motorcycle's wet clutch environment. However, legion bikers use the stuff with no ill effect.

Want to save some money and put the best kept secret in your bike's crank case? Try Shell Rotella T full syn diesel truck oil. That's right, you heard me correctly. It's very popular among the LDH crowd (Long Distance Riding) and it's what I use in my bikes. Meets or exceeds spec, inexpensive too (Wal-Mart).

http://www.rotella.com/products/rotella_t_synthetic.html

Here's another bit of intel you'll want to look over.

http://www.rotella.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=81

I actually took your advice and put it in my bikes.

So far, so good

I could swear they are quieter and shift better, but it could be the placebo effect.

I'll use the Rotella again.

Thanks for the tip

Glyn · Mar 12, 2005

Try the Shell,

So far, so good by me

A lot cheaper than the others too, which means more to spend in other places

Pipefighter248 · Mar 12, 2005

I have put the new 15W50 in my bike and it seemed to do good. No clutch slippage, but of course I only have about 15 miles on the oil, weather has been too bad to ride.

human cannonball · Mar 12, 2005

...weather has been too bad to ride.

Yeah, tell me about it...

Keep us posted when you turn her loose.

HC

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