Switching oil types at 11,000 miles

babuski

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Okay sportsfans, my busa now has over 11,000 miles on it.
The bike is 16 months old. The oil has been changed 6 times in 16 months (using regular oil... Honda or Suzuki 10w-40).

The bike runs perfect...absolutely no problems

Now, Johnny Cheese says Suki oil is not good to use, so my question here is: Should I stay with regular oil..if so, which kind if not suzuki.

Or should I go with a synthetic or something else. At this mileage point will I damage engine, trans and clutch with a change to synthetic?

I know we have discussed oil endlessly on this board, but we have never discussed changing from regular to synthetic after attaining such mileage.

What sayeth you all?
 
Okay sportsfans, my busa now has over 11,000 miles on it.
The bike is 16 months old. The oil has been changed 6 times in 16 months (using regular oil... Honda or Suzuki 10w-40).

The bike runs perfect...absolutely no problems[/QUOTE]

Of course it does, you've been using good quality oil and changing it regularly.

Keep up the same routine and you'll be posting the same message when the bike is 16 years old with 111,000 miles on it.

Now, Johnny Cheese says Suki oil is not good to use, so my question here is: Should I stay with regular oil..if so, which kind if not suzuki. [/QUOTE]

HAHAHA!!!
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Been reading more of those "my oil is the best" threads again eh? Search hayabusa.org or even the entire internet and usenet and tell me how many people have claimed to have worn out piston rings, spun a bearing or destroyed a tranny on their bike from using Suzuki oil. Something tells me you'll be searching a loooong time.
Nothing wrong with dealer oil, except for the outrageous price tag.

Or should I go with a synthetic or something else. At this mileage point will I damage engine, trans and clutch with a change to synthetic?[/QUOTE]

Your bike is an inanimate object. You're not taking the pipe away from a crackhead and stopping it cold turkey.
There won't be any withdrawal symptoms from taking away the dino oil...the bike doesn't know what it has in it.

Toss in some Mobile I, Castrol, Shell or whatever quality synthetic you want (without friction modifiers) and enjoy an oil that doesn't have to be changed as often since it doesn't break down as fast and offers better protection under harsh conditions when you're really tearin' up the roadways.
 
OH good now I can Say it... Get some silkolene in there BRO!!! SILKOLENE! 100% Ester Synthetic... I still love the stuff...
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I just wanted to give someone else a chance before I started beating the warmdrum again...

I was going to pretty much say the same thing TT did. It wont hurt a thing, but yeah watch out for high levels of friction modifiers, especially anything Moly, or PTFE. Both can sorta cause problems or so I have heard. I do seriously dig Silkolene, it has made a difference to my motor... Not a whole lot maybe, but quieter, cooler and the tranny is simply awesome...

Rev
 
My buddy in Hawaii suggested this so I went with the blend for 1 or 2 oil changes before jumpin to full synthetic. And oh yeah as Rev said Silkolene baby!
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22K on the odometer so far and nary a glitch!
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This is a good read...I've been thinking about this for the last 1000 miles or so. I've heard synthetic and a wet clutch don't go well together ...anything to this or am I just getting smoke blown where it shouldn't?
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So boys and girls (and Revilicious)...does Silkolene have friction modifiers, moly, ptfe and this stuff?
 
Silkolene Pro-4 is formulated for bikes and is great stuff.  The old theory that it causes clutches to slip is just not the case.  What was true and still is is that if your clutch is heavily worn, and just about crapped out, replacing the Dino Oil with Synthetic might make you aware of your clutches problem.  But The thought that Synthetic is bad for your bike is pretty oldschool and juat not the case with todays synthetics.  You do want to be careful, some of your more generic Synthetics "Castrol", "Mobil1" etc use pretty crap synthetic base stocks.  Switching to something with a class II or III basestock is little better than using a premium Dino oil.  That is why I recommend Silkolene or or one of the other premium, Bike Specific Synthetics on the market.  They use a 100% ester base stock which is truly the good stuff.  Long lasting, gasket friendly, Zero Sludge, and superior Viscosity retention regardless of the abuse... well almost.    

All oils have some friction modifiers/additives, it's part of the package.  Your cheaper oils will have cheaper additives that can gum and gunk and varnish.  Don't sweat the additives really.  

Why Fix it if it isn't broke?  Always a good point.  Yo ucould run regular oil in your bike for the net 10 years and NEVER have an oil related failure.  I chose to use Silkolene based on what I had read on a few websites and magazines.  I have noticed some real honest improvements in the feel of the tranny, the noise in the valvetrain (A little), and since swapping to the Silkolene it does seem to run a little cooler and does in fact "Sorta Feel A little more powerful"  I say quote because I have NO real evidence of this other than my 1971SOTP dyno.  

Silkolene

Maxima Lube news .pdf  OK this is Maxima Propaganda to be sure but it does have some valid information in it regarding Synthetics.  Although Maxima is one oil I won't use...

Amsoil Propaganda

Older Synthetic article  But still valid, Moslty Amsoil Propaganda

Base stocks explained (Sorta)

OK one More, Synthetic Oil Showdown... Sort of a current state of affairs, and why I dig the Ester Synthetics.



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Thanks Rev....and as a published author myself, I like your writing style. You should write for one of the bike magazines. I am sure they can use some of your great insights even if you are a pissed off, well-armed Floridian?
 
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I think your making fun of my lack of grammatical skill and typing ability.
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It's all good though, you are welcome hope the links provide some insight, though I would'nt call it unbiased information.

There is another article out there somewhere about how Synthetic oil is crap and Dino oils rule. Or maybe it was about the lack of difference between car and bike specific oils... Anyhoo, I bet someone will come along to jump my shid with all of my PRO Synthetic blather soon enough. Give you the opposite and hopelessly deluded
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viewpoint.
 
7 year old thread dude...most of these guys are no longer on this site.
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