suspension

Status
Not open for further replies.
O

OB_Mr.Nice Guy

Registered
What about suspension? Anyone got there bike dialed in? If so how do we make them handle better,adjustments,new shocks,tires,what?
Oh ya its plenty fast!!!!
 
...here we go again! I wish I knew what my settings were, they made the bike way better...basicly they are the settings dirty pete was using a while back...do a search or maybe ask him to post them again...I ended up with a little more preload in back than he was running, but that is all moot now...
 
I have all the Race-Tech pieces for my forks and shock. I have no personal experience with these pieces, but many hard core riders who's opinion I respect really talked up the Race-Tech modifications, so I am going to give it a try. Should be riding by the end of May (barring any more unforseen problems). Ill post the results of the suspension mods.
 
I just had Race Tech redo the forks on my R1. It is the BEST money I have spent on that bike, along with the Fox racing shock.

The Busa is touring bike for me so I will probably stick with the stock suspension. I weigh 165 pounds and had to back off the front preload a bit as it was rattling my fillings.
 
Pick you up a Sport Rider magazine..June issue on stands right now. Pages 37-51 contains an article on how to tune your suspension. Tells how to set it up for drag racing also. Very informative. Told me alot of things I didnt know. Also has a fuel test.
They dynoed a TL 1000 and put different race fuels in it to see which got the most HP.
 
..well, now that you have that setteled, get a set of Pilot Sports...the suspension adjustments and Piolt s will transform the Busa into a much lighter handling bike with no copmpromises other than the price of the tires...getting Dymag wheels and Race Tech suspension work made this dramaticly much better in terms of feed back, turning response, contole over bumps and when sliding the tires, and the annoying tendency for the Busa to stand up in curves during Mid Corner Panic Braking (or Trail Braking whith the front to settle the suspension), has been virtualy eliminated! I attribute this to the wheels, but it is the Race Tech suspension that is keeping them both on the ground over the rough stuff, with very little dive or squat...

[This message has been edited by Hapo (edited 21 April 2000).]
 
Hapo, have you ever tried Dunlop 207ZR's (street compound) on the Busa? If so, how would you compare them to the Michelin Pilots? I've run Dunlops (204's and now 207's) on all of my bikes over the last few years and have been a little gun shy about just jumping ship to Michelin, Pirelli, etc. The stock Bridgestones have me a little worried due to some bad experiences I had with BT56R's on my Triumph T595 several years back. Mostly psychological, granted, but the concern is there. Thanks.

Jim
 
...I ran D207's on my TL and never felt a need to upgrade, but I went with the Pilots for the Busa behind the stuff I read online here...Vegas Dude and others have been funning at very high speeds with no problems, and the feel of the tires is a majore improvemst...Kieth fro Cyle Performance just ordred a set for his (formaly my) TL and he would be the best person I know of for a direct comparison, as never ran the 207 on a Busa...my Sensie jack flash likes Dunlops because he feels they give more notice when approaching their limit than Michilins, and just put a set on his VFR, although he feels the Michilins offer more grip...either tire is a good choice in my book, and from what I hear the Metzler ME3Z will not dissapoint either...
 
These work for me. 6'4" 216 lbs
front preload 2.5 lines showing
front compression out 2 clicks
front rebound out 2 clicks
rear preload 1.25" sag
rear compression out 5 clicks
rear rebound out 7 clicks
tire pressure 42psi front & rear
 
Suspension and Springs, What's all this ruckus about suspension these days? It seems everyone is clued in that suspension setup can be a key to riding fast and safely, but how do you do it? No matter what shock or fork you have, they all require proper adjustment to work to their maximum potential. Suspension tuning isn't rocket science, and if you follow step-by-step procedures you can make remarkable improvements in your bike's handling characteristics.
The first step to setting up any bike is to set the spring sag and determine if you have the correct-rate springs. Spring sag is the amount the springs compress between fully topped out and fully loaded with the rider on board in riding position. It is also referred to as static ride height or static sag.
If you've ever measured sag before, you may have noticed that if you check it three or four times, you can get three or four times, you can get three or four different numbers without changed anything.
REAR END
Step 1: Extend the suspension completely by getting the wheel off the ground. It helps to have a few friends around. On bikes with sidestands the bike can usually be carefully rocked up on the stand to unload the suspension. Most race stands will not work because the suspension will still be loaded by resting on the swingarm rather than the wheel. Measure the distance from the axle vertically to some point on the chassis (metric figures are easiest and more precise; Figure 1). Mark this reference point because you'll need to refer to it again. This measurement is L1. If the measurement is not exactly vertical the sag numbers will be inaccurate (too low).
Step 2: Take the bike off the stand and put the rider on board in riding position. Have a third person balance the bike from the front. If accuracy is important to you, you must take friction of the linkage into account.
This is where our procedure is different: We take two additional measurements. First, push down on the rear end about 25mm (1") and let it extend very slowly.Where it stops, measure the distance between the axle and the mark on chassis again. If there were no drag in the linkage the bike would come up a little further. It's important that you do not bounce! This measurement is L2.
Step 3: Have your assistant lift up on the rear of the bike about 25mm and let it down very slowly. Where it stops, measure it. If there were no drag it would drop a little further. Remember, don't bounce! This measurement it L3.
Step 4: The spring sag is in the middle of these two measurements. In fact, if there were no drag in the linkage, L2 and L3 would be the same. To get the actual sag figure you find the midpoint by averaging the two numbers and subtracting them from the fully extended measurement L1: static spring sag = L1 -[(L2 + L3) / 2].
Step 5: Adjust the preload with whatever method applies to your bike. Spring collars are common, and some benefit from the use of special tools. In a pinch you can use a blunt chisel to unlock the collars and turn the main adjusting collar. If you have too much sag you need more preload; if you have too little sag you need less preload. For road race bikes, rear sag is typically 25 to 30mm. Street riders usually use 30 to 35mm. Bikes set up for the track are compromise when ridden on the street. The firmer settings commonly used on the track are generally not recommended (or desirable) for road work.
Measuring front-end sag is very similar to the rear. However, it' much more critical to take seal drag into account on the front end because it is more pronounced.
FRONT END
Step 1: Extend the fork completely and measure from the wiper (the dust
seal atop the slider) to the bottom of the triple clamp (or lower fork
casting on inverted forks; Figure 2). This measurement is L1.
Step 2: Take the bike off the sidestand, and put the rider on board in
riding position. Get and assistant to balance the bike from the rear, then push down on the front end and let it extend very slowly.
Where it stops, measure the distance between the wiper and the bottom of the triple clamp again. Do not bounce. This measurement is L2.
Step 3: Lift up on the front end and let it drop very slowly. Where it
stops, measure again. Don't bounce. This measurement is L3. Once again, L2 and L3 are different due to stiction or drag in the seals and bushings, which is particularly high for telescopic front ends.
Step 4: Just as with the front, halfway between L2 and L3 is where the sag would be with no drag or stiction. Therefore L2 and L3 must be averaged and subtracted from L1 to calculate true spring sag: static spring sag = L1 - [l2 + l3) / 2].
Step 5: To adjust sag use the preload adjusters, if available, or vary the length of the preload spaces inside the fork.
Street bikes run between 25 and 33 percent of their total travel, which equates to 30 to 35mm. Roadrace bikes usually run between 25 and 30mm.
This method of checking sag and taking stiction into account also allows you to check the drag of the linkage and seals. It follows that the greater the difference between the measurements (pushing down and pulling up), the worse
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

O
Suspension tips, please
Replies
2
Views
406
OB_Mambo Kid
O
O
setting up suspension
Replies
4
Views
736
OB_Hapo
O
I
Suspension Recommendations Please
Replies
7
Views
661
Cykill
Cykill
KanjiBusa
Suspension setting?
Replies
17
Views
1,596
rockadaous
rockadaous
O
PLEASE HELP ON SUSPENSION SETTINGS.
Replies
12
Views
690
OB_valklex
O
Back
Top