suspension questions

[jgitt]

So newb 2 part question here. i want to lower my bike possibly. Ive done a lot of searching on Google with all the same results, lowering links, yada yada. Spoke with one of the local shops here and he said don't do it, it will ruin my ability to corner which as of right now is perfect, I'm a little stretched, about 4" i think judging from pics of stock bikes, but since this was stretched before i got it i don't know, also running a 240 rear tire if that changes anything. So I'm wanting to know if there is another option to lowering the bike without losing performance in the corners. Its not a must for me to lower it but i think it looks better. Ive read that lowering links can really put some stress on the suspension and make it rough riding which i don't want to compromise the bikes comfortability. So that would be my first question, can i lower the bike without links, or hurting the way it handles now. If there are other options links to the website to buy the parts would be helpful.

Next question is. I'm not a small guy, one of the main reasons i went with a busa because i look ridiculous on anything smaller, plus the Hayabusa is just damn sexy. But to the point, im 6'8" and weigh around 280lbs. Right now my suspension feels okay but when i had my dirt bike i was always reading you should change the springs out to different rates to compensate for the extra weight. I've done a lot of searching on the forum and Ive read the one thread about adjusting suspension with the tape measure and all that jazz and haven't done any of that since its up for the winter. But if it would be best to change spring rates out i would like to get it all ordered before spring. Also my girl rides with me every now and then so i don't know how much that would effect the answer to these questions, right now my bike feels pretty smooth but i also drive a sports car so im used to a solid suspension. Also if the answer is yes to this a link to calculate the spring rate i need would be awesome unless you already know it, and then where to buy them, or who to buy them from on here, would always like to stay with the vendors on here if possible.

Any help or advice would be much appreciated and if there is a thread already on any of this i very well could've missed it so a link to that would be great as well. Always trying to learn without asking the same questions over and over.

inserted a pic of the bike so you all can maybe tell me how much its stretched.



Thanks in advance

 

[racer237]

Lowering it won't hurt the ride any more that the 240 tire or the stretch does. Just keep in mind that every inch you lower the rear you need to lower the front 1/2 inch. Use a heavier spring on the rear shock since you ride a passenger. I have the stock shock off my bike with a 800lb Hypercoil spring already installed on it I will sell to you for $60 shipped. I paid $135 for the spring alone. I switched to the Progressive Suspension shock on mine and love it. Its a $500 upgrade though

 

[jgitt]

What is the 800lb hypercoil compared to on stock? Im not to familiar with bike spring rates so i dont know how much beefier it is than the stock? Will it cause less sag when i sit on the bike, will it be stiffer? Def interested in the spring if its fitting my needs.

 

[jgitt]

also is it the one on ebay?

 

[Tufbusa]

My advise to you would be: Research and learn what you are giving up in performance as well as safety as a result of the cool look of stretched and lowered before taking the plunge.

Reducing the limits of suspension travel is only one of the many pitfalls you will encounter. Springs stiff enough to keep the suspension from bottoming out also restricts the suspensions ability to absorb bumps which results in a rough ride when straight up and reduced traction when leaned over. Braking becomes an issue, when the forks bottom out the only suspension left is flex in the tire and traction suffers. This is just the beginning of a long negative list.

The positive list for a street rider is only this: Looks!

Your stock fork springs are .85 which is to soft for your body mass. Even if you don't change the bike height you could use heavier springs.

 

[RYC1966]

Are you comfortable doing the work yourself / any part of it....taking the forks off / rear shock off? If you can do that and send them out you will be happy...sometimes putting the forks back together is a pain...I'd recommend oem seals and tell the parts distributer what your intentions are...they cam help you with the spring part#'s and oil / fluid weight..

Most the bikes in this thread are stretched and lowered...some have the belly wing some do not...if you get to low you can slam / drag parts...example I have is at speed down the highway...going over a bump the middle scuffs and it is not the best feeling.

 

[KvHotDog4]

Mine is lowered 1 1/2" in the rear and stock in front. I have put nearly 66,000 miles with this set up and most of that was 2 up. I have not noticed any difference in the ride because all you are doing is lowering the spring your not adjusting the recoil or stiffness of it.
Over the years I have had to make it stiffer, I am guessing due to wear. I would notice when I was 2 up my headlight would be blinding people so I make the shock stiffer and it does not blind people anymore. Still ride is smooth.
Also, you need to consider your type of riding, a lot of information you are going to get on here is about setting up for track days and major performance, your riding a 240 rear your not going to be doing any performance riding or track days. My advice is get the lowering links, what you will need to watch out for is make sure the tire doesn't touch the undertail with 2 up and hard acceleration, it will burn a hole through the undertail in a matter of seconds and you won't even know it. I had 2 friends that burned through theirs and never knew because it only touched it under acceleration.

No offense here but I would also try to find ones that are NOT the 3 hole links, some have broken between holes and with 300 lbs plus another rider you could be busting 400 lbs, add that to the force when the bike takes off your putting a lot of faith in those little links. If you drop more than 1 1/2 you will need to get a shorter kick stand and with mine 1 1/2 lowered I have to watch where I park, it doesn't lean over much, any lower the kickstand will knock it over the other way.

Here is the bike only lowered in the rear to show you the stance, I will be stretched after Christmas it does put a little more stress on the shock but again consider your riding style, 240 rear = no trackdays or performance. Pic is from my squid days, but it shows the stance riding w/ 190lbs on it.

 

[1busa]

What performance are you talking about?? You ride a chromed out stretched busa with a 240 tire and your worried about losing so-called performance in a turn..... At what speeds are you negotiating turns now? When guys want better turning capabilities they raise the bike not lower it... They put a 190/55 on not a 240 The busa is not a canyon carver to begin with not to say that it can't be done but you start out behind the 8ball so to speak compared to smaller lighter bikes. It takes a lot of mods and even more riding skill to compete

 

[jgitt]

Maybe performance wasnt the right word. i bought the bike exactly like you see it. Im not going to be hitting tail of the dragon at high speeds or anything like that but it does handle good to me. I guess i dont know what was lost when it was stretched and bigger tire because i never road it before. I enjoy leaning it over on some long highway turns and in town, and i guess performance wouldnt be the word but i just dont want it to be awkward when i do turn. So im kinda already leaning away from lowering just from your alls responses which i really appreciate. It wasnt something i was dead set on just something i was thinking about if the bike wouldnt suffer to much of a loss.

An RYC1996 i do feel pretty comfortable taking the bike apart. When i had my dirty bike i took the forks off and had them rebuilt by a buddy, im sure the hayabusa is a little more complicated but i have some good friends who can help. What spring rates do i need to be looking for up front and the rear? Id rather set the bike up for my weight rather than lowering it.

 

[jgitt]

Also RYC where would i get those heavier spring and where would i send everything off to? you said the distributor would be able to help with the seals and all, who would you recommend as the distributor?

Thanks

 

[jgitt]

What performance are you talking about?? You ride a chromed out stretched busa with a 240 tire and your worried about losing so-called performance in a turn..... At what speeds are you negotiating turns now? When guys want better turning capabilities they raise the bike not lower it... They put a 190/55 on not a 240 The busa is not a canyon carver to begin with not to say that it can't be done but you start out behind the 8ball so to speak compared to smaller lighter bikes. It takes a lot of mods and even more riding skill to compete

Right now i can take some pretty decent corners at some pretty high speeds. it handles very well. When i took it to the shop for the first time the guy took it for a ride and even complimented me on how well it handled for being stretched. Thats when they advised me not to lower it. But i do feel like the front is soft which is why i think they need to be heavier for my weight.

 

[Poppy]

Also RYC where would i get those heavier spring and where would i send everything off to? you said the distributor would be able to help with the seals and all, who would you recommend as the distributor?

Thanks

I would look in the site sponsor section!

 

[racer237]

also is it the one on ebay?

Yup...that's the one. Stock spring rate is 600lbs. Anytime you lengthen the arm/travel you need to increase the spring rate.

 

[Tufbusa]

What spring rates do i need to be looking for up front and the rear? Id rather set the bike up for my weight rather than lowering it.

You are a wise man!

I'd suggest 1.1 fork springs. 1.1 means it takes 1.1 Kilograms of weight to compress the spring 1mm. By extending your swingarm you have transferred weight from the rear to the front. So stiffer springs are definitely in order. However, I'd make sure the previous owner has not already upgraded the fork springs.

The more you change your suspension the less compliant it becomes. Compliant suspension is by far more important than added HP. Your 240 rear tire makes your bike turn slower but has no dramatic negative effects. However, the extended swingarm for the most part completely eliminates the anti-squat characteristics.

 

[RYC1966]

Here is one for an idea... RT - Digital Product Search

There are guys / shops on the site that would likely be able to help you out in a reasonable amount of time...pm some of them or call...it is not that tricky to take the forks off and the rear shock at the same time...just be careful so you don't join the dropped bike thread.

 

[jgitt]

Thanks everyone! I really appreciate the feedback without being flamed. All advice is greatly appreciated and not ignored.

 

[jgitt]

Not trying to offend drag racer but does anyone feel that a 800lb rear spring and oem shock would suffice? or should i just go all new with the link provided by RYC so i dont mismatch anything?