The blow off valve should be set so it blows off well at idle using the soft spring. It will slam shut under load. I have never had this cause a stutter closed or open. If you disconnect the iap sensor and re cal the mapping I bet it will be gone. It sounds like the iap sensor not liking it.
Supercharged BKing
- Thread starter vampire
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vampire
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The OEM IAP sensor is not on it. It's replaced by a GM3bar mapsensor . Can't imagine the Idle Speed Control has anything to do with it, problem stuttering is at little throttle opening for a while (cruising)till around 4500 rpm. But i can plug ISC off and flash the ECU to try. Blow off is set as you discribe, vents on vacuum and immediately shuts under load. This week i'll take off the side panel and check the valve while i'm driving. Easy to put a mini camera on it and see what it does. I think there 's something stupid i've forgotten/not seeing or valve is opening and closing not properly, if you like to bet on it.
When you disconnect the IAP sensor, do you flash the ECU on ECEditor on advanced settings 'TPS only' and plug off the vacuum line to the sensor?
When you disconnect the IAP sensor, do you flash the ECU on ECEditor on advanced settings 'TPS only' and plug off the vacuum line to the sensor?
yes just run TPS only and plug the vac line.
vampire
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Problem stuttering seems to be a wrong ECE setting. On the dyno we de-activate boostfuel option , because it's easy to set fuel on TPS without adding fuel with boostfuel option. The 3 barmap sensor made it possible to read boost levels in the datalog files. But It seems to be neccesary to activate boostfuel option to let the GM3Bar sensor act like the OEM IAP sensor on vacuum. Only thing to do is set all values to zero in the boostfuel option, so there's no add of fuel and the map sensor works like it has to do. Now datalogging and autotune has to be done again. I'm happy now with the new ECE logbox, which is a great tool.
vampire
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Finally got it run okay on vacuum. Problem stuttering was caused by the GM3BarMap sensor. It did't convert to the OEM IAP sensor values so got it off. Still a bit rich on vacuum but that will be okay after some datalog/autotune. Allready looking forward to put the overdrive pully back on and 1:1 fuel regulator and get it on the dyno for some more HP.
Thanks for all support!
Thanks for all support!
fu*king everytime its a MAP sensor. Lucky we don't really need them 
vampire
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Did more then 3000km with the supercharged bike ,till now it runs great. Over 6000 rpm it pulls real hard and building up power equally. But its still easy to ride, even without an extended rearside as long as you keep away from high revs in lower gears. At lower revs it's a bit lazy, which is okay on cruising. As soon as boost is building up all 4 exhaust start screaming. No doubt the best bike i've ever ride.
Looks Factory. Very nice.
vampire
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After putting a 1:1 fuel pressure regulator and blanket off the OEM in the tank, i took it to the dyno today. I got a bunge on both sides of the exhaust, one for the left 2 cil. and 1 for the right ones. Only did a few run's because we cound't get proper AFR readings. Innovate measured a much more rich AFR then the dyno. Changing sides did'nt make a different so one of them is not working correct. We'll find out. So far the dyno @ 10 psi boost.
Seems like a 4 into 1 exhaust would simplify things.
They work well on turbo bikes too.
The stock B-King exhaust is restrictive enough as it is(header and midpipe).
Good luck and cool bike, I love my B-King.
They work well on turbo bikes too.
The stock B-King exhaust is restrictive enough as it is(header and midpipe).
Good luck and cool bike, I love my B-King.
vampire
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Seems like a 4 into 1 exhaust would simplify things.
They work well on turbo bikes too.
The stock B-King exhaust is restrictive enough as it is(header and midpipe).
Good luck and cool bike, I love my B-King.
I know, it's only for the looks. Did a comparing dyno with all four and one run with only the seatpipe, no difference at all. And the sound off 4 is better, quattrophony!
I meant an aftermarket header(Brocks can easily be made to fit the stock style underseat up-pipe).
Much better flow than stock.
vampire
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Just some thing i really like to know. When you run a certain boostlevel, let's say 10psi at top end and not changing your fuel map, what happens to your AFR value when you alter your ignition from stock values progressivly to i.e 10 degrees at top end? I always thought exhaust temp. rises and much more fuel is needed. ...but is that correct?
I would pm Smithabusa or Powerhouse.
vampire
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Last week i took off both side exhaust mufflers. Now only the Yoshimura. It's better running this way, especially on lower revs. Also changed crank pully. From 78mm crank/80 charger to 85/80, so a little overdrive now. A lot more power, i have to be very carefull now in the first 3 gears on a stock wheelbase. But a lot off fun to drive.
vampire
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A few weeks ago i made some testrides. Datalogs shows around 15 psi at 10000rpm. It was only for a very short period of time, but i would really want to know inlet air temperatures now. So i bought a PLX AIT Device. The gauge shows allready 140degrees F.= 60degrees C. at 10Psi. I could not test to max. rpm but i think i really need to cool it now . Outside temp. was around 11 degr.C.!
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