Super huge problem.

[Garrison]

I went to start my bike this morning and it started up fine, after the idle adjustment. Idled at about 1000. Now, when I get on it to put it in gear, it chugs forward and dies. Tried it again, same result. Then I tried putting it into second and roll starting it. Nothing doing. It's not wanting to roll with the clutch pulled in, which leads me to believe that it's not engaging at all. What the hell happened?? I was riding it yesterday! This, from an idle adjust??

Please help. The clutch feels weak to the pull, regardless of setting.

 

[thepushercg]

reservoir is full ?any leaks around clutch shaft on left side of the bike above the kickstand ? sounds like its not engaging the clutch by pushing the rod in.

 

[Garrison]

reservoir is full ?any leaks around clutch shaft on left side of the bike above the kickstand ? sounds like its not engaging the clutch by pushing the rod in.

What would I fill it with?

 

[Wag]

If I recall correctly, there's a fast idle adjust and an idle adjust. Make sure you used the right one! Also, proper setting is 1,150 rpm.

Last but not least, if you raised the tank, you could have bumped a vacuum hose loose so check those as well. You may have to pull the airbox to see everything clearly.

--Wag--

 

[ghola_warrior]

have a beer. think about it, if you will. i guess sometimes 2 or more problems happpens at once.

 

[street racer]

Had that happen on my old Vmax. The clutch master cylinder was the culprit. I had a 15 mile drive with 3 or 4 stoplights between me and the dealer. So I started the bike in neutral, pushed it and ran alongside it, jumped on and dropped it into first gear. Shifting up and down without the clutch was easy but I couldnt stop so I timed the stoplights and got to the dealer without a stop. Killed it in front of the dealer and they installed a new master cylinder while I waited. It was kind of a challenge to get to the dealer without having a clutch !!! Good luck to you !

 

[HillbillyTom]

Your clutch is not DISengaging. Sounds like your master cylinder is very low on fluid. Is anything showing in the window? If not, fill it with DOT 4 brake fluid and pump it a few times. This may fix it, but if not, it's gotten air in the line it will need to be blead (bleed..sp?).

 

[Garrison]

OMG, you guys rock the **** on this one. Resovoir was empty. And gross to boot. But its fixed now.
Oh, and about the beer? I just got back from a rugby social at UGA. I was MoP and if I have another sip of beer I might just die. haha.

But again, thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you

This may fix it, but if not, it's gotten air in the line it will need to be blead (bleed..sp?).

Bled.

 

[Scar]

Case closed! Nicely done in the best .oRg fashion~

 

[runeight]

Why was it dry?

Better take a look around. Also check the brake side.

r8

 

[Garrison]

Why was it dry?

Better take a look around. Also check the brake side.

r8

It wasn't dry, just very low. And the brake reservoir is fine.

 

[bigoltool]

If it was completely empty you may have air in the line which would mean you'll have to bleed it. Otherwise the Air in the line can compress and you will not get full disengagement (again).

 

[BigBSBusa]

Glad you got it fixed.

 

[Mr Bogus]

Why was it dry?

Better take a look around. Also check the brake side.

r8

he is right, no reason to be low.. check slave for seepage

 

[Ezduzit]

The best help around

 

[GMbusa]

And set your idle to 1200rpm. No more stalling.

 

[mymaster]

 

[Wag]

And the h.org team wins again!

--Wag--

 

[Deadeye]

Glad you got going ... i'm with the others ... I think I would drain the reservoir, put in fresh fluid, bleed it and watch for leaks ... The clutch push rod and its reservoir is right beside the counter sprocket and gets really full of grud (chain lube, sand, little rocks, etc.) Theres a couple threads where guys have made a custom cover to protect the push rod area ... hope it helps ...